rayin

For future reference, do not change from generator power to shore power (or visa versa) with heavy loads operating, like air conditioner, microwave, etc. It can cause arcing, which burns the contacts and can weld them together in one position.

Well in that case, I just had my MH engine repaired, only cost 5 units+.

It was the distributor module, it was replaced yesterday and road tested after their computer said everything from the ECM met Cummins specs now. We go get our MH Friday. They tested fuel pressure and flow rates yesterday too. Since some of the latest ISC engines in MH's were rated at 380HP I asked about uprating my 350 engine ECM. The service manager said they could, BUT it is not a good idea for my engine. Next week I'll try and reschedule DW's Mayo Clinic appt. I already know that Dr. is booked out to the end of Sep.

I donno, I had a 1976 Allegro with genset under the bedroom. The sound put me to sleep.

How long since the air dryer has been serviced? If the desiccant air dryer filter is bad, and/or purge valve is bad, strange things happen to air pressure.This can cause the air compressor to fail due to exceeding the duty cycle.

Contact Mr. Dan Bell at HQ and explain your dissatisfaction. The "egg" coming apart is not normal. I'm confident he will resolve your concerns.

I donno Wayne, that Sashimi link kinda scares me away..

First do the free checks. Is the heater hose hot on the inlet side, ambient temperature on outlet? Is the vacuum pump operating OK? Inspect the vacuum tubing and canister for leakage, and air deflector doors for proper operation. If those are all OK, you are free to begin spending money. Actully, my EWAG is the system is low on refrigerant. Over the years some refrigerant will eventually leak out, if adding(correct type) refrigerant doesn't fix the problem, it's time to hire a professional auto A/C tech.

Like this? https://www.megasorber.com/soundproofing-products/sound-absorbers/fireproof-acoustic-material and for the ceiling: https://www.soundproofcow.com/product-category/soundproofing-foam/fire-rated-acoustic-foam/

Wayne, I had to google Sashimi.

Swan Industries is who made the onboard automatic winterization system Winnebago used in the early 2000's.. I keep the RV antifreeze tank full, that way all I have to do is press 2 electric switches to winterize if necessary. Yes, their RV stuff is expensive.

Sometimes you can't take it all, and still go where you want: It is however a great way for Les Schwab to advertise.

I fit in that category too.

That is logical Ross, he said battery voltage is only 12.3VDC. Knowing the model will help, the Sea Breeze LX uses either F53 chassis or Workhorse W22 chassis. The jacks are hyd., the motor requires at least 12.6V to operate. Battery cables must be clean and tight, liquid level correct. Having the battery connected to an external charger may operate the slide, which will allow him to access the breaker panel. Otherwise he must extend the slide manually, as accessing the breaker panel is essential. re: https://dreamfindersrv.com/Literature/2007-National-RV-Sea-Breeze-Brochure.pdf

Have you cleaned out the radiator fins? This can cause overheating. How did you determine the alarm is sounding although it is not really overheating? The sales brochure tells me little concerning your issue.

Welcome to the discussion forums! The jacks and genest usually obtain power from the starting battery bank. Since drive engine starts and runs OK it confirms that circuit is functioning. It sounds as if there is a main fuse or breaker disrupting power to the jacks, slides and genset; possibly even a poor/missing ground connection. FWIW over 80% of all 12V issues are the result of a poor/missing ground. (somewhere) What are the specifics for your MH? Model and diesel or gas helps. Are the jacks electric or hydraulic?

Herman i spoke with Cummins this morning, I have a different fuel pump than you, thanks for trying to help with cost though. I specifically asked if ULSD was involved in this failure. He said no, this failure was electrical in the distribution module. If I haven't had any ULSD fuel problems to date, I likely will not in the future, just keep doing what I have been in the past; which is using at least 10% bio-diesel-the best fuel lubricity available per this ISO study: https://www.dieselplace.com/threads/lubricity-additive-study-results.177728/

I tired of having tire problems on our 40' 5er after experiencing ply separations. I installed Sailun S637 14 ply commercial ST trailer tires, that ended my tire problems, and at a reasonable price. They are built like the Goodyear LR G tires, all steel belting, etc. Check them out, they are for commercial low-boy trailers, speed rated for 75 MPH. The load index is 129 = 4,079 lbs.

The main problem is the four month backlog of orders caused by the virus shutdown. The high cost is due to Cummins only using my specific fuel pump for a short time. They used 3 different models in that 4 years. So now i'm sitting inside twiddling my thumbs waiting for update from Cummins(I do call once a day JIC); tried working outside but the humidity and heat trigger an asthma attack. Heat index this week hovered near 105°.

I called Cummins yesterday, was told the distributor was shipped, but arrival was a question. Called today; nope- distributor is MIA. The problem is from this virus-caused shutdown. No parts were made for 4 months, now there is a huge backlog of orders. They can get a Cummins - re-manufactured fuel pump, no new OEM's are available. Joe is right, the reason it costs so much is lack of availability due to age and short window of use by Cummins.

I agree, the motor and gearbox is likely not made specifically for those brands, but instead an off-the-shelf item for several different uses.

The Jeep forums mostly say it's OK, but the winch may be in the way and may need to be removed; and flat-towing with OEM bumpers is not approved by Jeep.. Rock Hard aftermarket bumpers are designed so you may do both, flat-tow and use a winch.

Make, model of heater is essential to receiving relevant help. If you go to Bryantrv.com you may download the water heater service manual for yours. They have flow-charts for troubleshooting. The usual cause is a poor ground connection (somewhere), which is universal to all makes/models. Atwood heaters have a control board with flat connectors, they, and the corresponding connector plug should be polished with a pencil eraser to re-make clean solid connections for the low-voltage current.

No need to spend the money unless you want to own a reader. Go to AutoZone and borrow one instead. They have you complete a form that includes your CC number. If you don't return it, you bought them a new one; OR they will reads codes at the store for free.