rayin

My bad. I thought that was his MH pictures, I'm out of suggestions.

That is not a regulator, it is 12VDC powered solenoid from Norgren. Your picture 2 is your regulator, looks nothing like what I described on my MH, sorry. Upon re-inspecting your first set of pictures, the 3 one explains and identifies the air adjustment screws, one for in, the other for out direction. Adjust the screw for opening the cover, as you said the close works fine. If adjustment does not correct the speed, you might add a few drops of air tool oil into the supply line.. If that doesn't work contact a Monaco parts place for a new regulator.

You may have to have the generator running. inverter on, or on shore power, depending on how Tiffin wired your coach..

I can only relate my experience with my air-powered step cover. There is a miniature air regulator beside the 12V- controlled air soleniod, according to Winnebago the set pressure is 40 psi to the solenoid-controlled directional valve. This is a generic miniature regulator supplying air to the solenoid, nothing special. Can you locate a regulator near your solenoid-controlled directional valve? My new miniature valve came with a small pressure gauge, from ebay. Your top picture appears to have a 12V solenoid controlling air direction and supply. My valve was sticking and the air cylinder that moves the cover were both very draggy, I put a few drops of air tool oil in the supply line exiting the regulator, which solved the draggy problem.

DW bought me a T shirt, could she be hinting st something?

Rootin for you Carl! I had both eyes done about 12 years ago, just follow the schedule for eye drops and Dr's orders. This was a few years after having laser surgery to re-attach both retinas resulting from a severe head injury, so I know you'll do well.

This DEF FAQ page has all the answers, storage life is one year between 10° - 90°.

I'm with Carl, I never try to out-engineer the design engineers. Things like this might happen: https://www.physicsforums.com/threads/engine-explodes-out-of-tractor-pull-semi-truck.981753/

To reinforce what Brett said, page through this slideshow by Cummins. As to your question about initial start-up, modern diesel engines have an oil pressure requirement built into the ECM, no oil pressure detected = no start.This pdf is for the Cummins L9 engine.

Dad was there prior to the invasion. He was on the lead mine sweeper for the atlantic fleet, USS Implicit that cleared the waters. He would have been 98 last March. I talked with mom yesterday, she still remembers the day but she didn't know where dad was. I think it amazing only 4,412 allied military were killed that day, one was a cousin/ son of dads oldest brother.

Ray, Spartan told me to leave the front covers off so I would not forget to check hub oil level prior to each days driving, plus it's easy to notice a leak. I can't remember where I put them it's been so long.

Yes sir I merely mentioned it in case you might want to snug the bolts down some. Mine were finger-tight and gasket began leaking.

Jim the 3 bolts on top of the lift pump become loose and allow the gasket to leak. I suspect the gasket changes due to exposure to biodiesel. The Allen-head bolts are accessed from the top-side. New gaskets are available, 2 designs, which one is yours TBD on disassembly. My fuse is in a totally different location, no help here, sorry.

I experienced that once. In PA the rear ride height rubber end broke off, air springs deflated. Rear of coach began hopping up/down violently until I got slowed to a crawl. Thankfully there was no damage to U-joints or driveshaft according to the mechanic at the Pilot truck stop who replaced the height adjustment rod and ends. When I returned home I measured ride height and with deflated air springs; 4" difference. That's a lot for a 3' driveshaft to absorb.

Gee, that sounds like the ECM went directly from box to installed, bypassed setup and QC

Exactly! If the engine RPM's reach red-line(ISC is 3200RPM) for engine braking, the ECM and TCM WILL command a transmission upshift to protect the engine. That leaves the driver with only the service brakes for downhill control until the driver can use the service brakes to bring speed down enough for the ECM/TCM to allow a downshift to a lower gear, where the exhaust brake once again is effective.

I've had so much trouble removing them sometimes, I fear that will be how they come out.

This might be useful: https://www.nraila.org/gun-laws/state-gun-laws/new-york/ this link pertains to all states.

The chimney design was not addressed, this will affect running temperature and overall operation. Download the installation manual for your fridge and double-check the chimney design and specs to make sure it is correct. If it is any comparison, my Norcold 1200 will maintain 34° in the fridge section on a 95° day. I did add a thermostatic blower-type fan blowing upward over the tubing. It is not uncommon to read of improperly installed chimneys in RV's.

Depending upon the vehicle being towed, the exit angle is very important when it is lifted. Also the front wheels clearance off the ground will interact with rear exit angle. FWIW, the website says "under construction".

My EWAG is the burner is already adjusted too rich at low altitude, at high altitude the air to fuel mixture is above ignition point. With answers to those questions I might be able to stop guessing. BTW, thanks for taking care of a friend.

Perhaps the wiring diagram might help, sorry it came through so small. And this pdf for testing the ice maker: Wildbill is right, I bought one off Amazon for $40. I drilled a small hole in the white cover so I could adjust cube size without removing the ice maker in my Norcold 1200LRIM.

You might be right, the insulation surrounding the boiler and chimney is very important to proper operation. I decided some time ago if the insulation deteriorated on mine, I will pull the fridge out and replace the old wrapped insulation with rigid steam-pipe insulation, it is the same thickness and much better R value.

Homemade mask:

Speaking of flammable, the ideal refrigerant would be propane-if one could live with the obvious drawback.(pun intended)