richard5933

I can't speak directly to Tiffin specifically, but I've encountered many situations like this over the past months. The label was probably created as soon as the order arrived at the supplier's front office as some clerk processed it. They it had to be sent to the warehouse to have the part picked, packed, and shipped. Over last summer I drove a semi doing pick-ups and deliveries to many suppliers like this - right in the middle of the first round of chaos from covid-19. Everything took longer than normal every step of the way, and many of the warehouses had altered their system drastically to provide for social distancing and other safety issues. I'd give it a few more days, and if the tracking hasn't progressed contact Tiffin and have them follow up on the order. They should be able to send a message to the supplier to try and give the order a jump start.

What brand of motor home are we talking about? Which chassis? I know that some manufacturers use the same chassis for multiple years and will often have some left over from one year to the next. But, I've never heard of one that was 4 years old.

I've got an air throttle on my 1974 coach, and many would be surprised to find out that they haven't changed very much in the years since. My throttle started acting oddly, and it was pretty simple to get rebuild kits to put things in good shape again. If you look at the air throttle, probably on the cylinder behind the pedal, there should be either a label or a tag with the model/part number. With that number you can get the appropriate rebuild kit. Not very difficult to do. The same would be for the slave cylinder on the engine. There will be a kit for that as well. The cylinders contain o-rings and a piston cup which rides inside the bore. These are lubricated with a special grease that is compatible with the rubber when assembled or rebuilt. If you put a few drops of pneumatic tool oil inside it might help things move more freely, but I'd be careful to use something which is safe for rubber and plastic components. If you put too much in there, it might thin out or remove any grease remaining inside and in the end not help. Of course, at that time you can certainly just rebuild the two cylinders. It might be a good idea to try and figure out which of the two cylinders is sticking, or if it's ever the air throttle all. It is possible that the problem is in the governor/throttle control on the engine. My first step would be to disconnect the air cylinder from the engine and then confirm that the engine side of things moves freely. After that I'd try to manually move the cylinder with the air line disconnected and see if they return to the neutral position easily. One last thought would be to make sure that the exhaust port on the system is open and allows the air to leave. Mine is on the pedal cylinder and there is an airline going down and out of the bottom of the coach.

What brand of soundbar are you looking for? We have a Bose which has an available mount. Sounds great and was easy to install. Sound Bar: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AWLPUAG/ref=twister_B01FNAFLZA?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 Mount: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AWLPUAG/ref=twister_B01FNAFLZA?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 They also have larger sound bars with similar mounts, but for the size of a coach this does a fine job for us.

Uniseal products are rubber seals which use a tight friction fit. Insert the seal into a hole in the tank, and then a PVC pipe is inserted into the rubber seal. The seal is made by a tight friction fit. Although some have used these as permanent solutions, I'd only use them as a temporary solution, as the rubber is going to harden and shrink over time. Trying to glue a plastic tank is difficult, especially near the drain or other parts of the tank which are always wet. On the top it is easier to use glue or epoxy since there is no water pushing on the repair, but even then it's difficult to get things to stick permanently to the type of plastic used in most water tanks which is why they use spin welding. The best solution is to get a new fitting put on with spin welding. Next would be to use a plastic welding gun and some appropriate plastic welding rod to make a repair. I've done this, and while there is a learning curve it's not that difficult for anyone who is used to doing similar things.

You're likely looking for a company that does spin welding. That's what the technique is called that is used to install the new fitting. Who ever does that should also be able to handle other repairs to the tank. If you can't find a shop by using that term near you, try looking for the nearest plastics supply house. They should be able to direct you to a shop in your area that can do the work.

If the tank is in good condition other than the leak, you can have the tank repaired and a new drain fitting installed.

Most states do have restrictions on how tall a vehicle can be without an permit. This document lists the max height permitted, but that doesn't mean that all the bridges in the state will be that high - they won't. https://www.rvia.org/system/files/media/file/Maximum Vehicle Height.pdf If you look at a trucker's atlas you can find lots of information about height restrictions around the country. This atlas also shows marked truck routes, which usually means that a vehicle at or under the legal limit can fit. There are exceptions though, and it's important to watch every sign. I was driving semi last summer. On a delivery to a customer the truck route was detoured, and on the detour I encountered a bridge which looked way too low. Luckily I saw it before it was too late to turn off that road and find another route. https://store.randmcnally.com/2021-deluxe-motor-carriers-road-atlas.html Most GPS units aimed at RV drivers or commercial truck drivers will have a way to enter the vehicle height. I use a Garmin unit and it uses my coach's height, width, length, and weight to plan routes which are suitable. I still double check with the trucker's atlas AND I use Google Maps to drive the route virtually using Street View if there are any areas of concern. You can usually see the actual signs along the route on Street View. I've used this many times to double check bridge load limits, underpass heights, or for signs indicating 'no trucks'. The 'no trucks' signs could be for a few reasons, including weight limits, height limits, etc. so it's important to check before driving past one.

Good news. What did you find that the part was?

My guess would be something on the tank end of things. Assuming you have a traditional fuel gauge, do you have access to the top of the tank where the mounting plate would be for the gauge sending unit?

Or is it that Thor felt they needed a high-end line-up to compete against Winnebago's purchase of Newmar?

According to the manual, it appears that the EMS functions and the surge protection module are separate. As in, the surge protector can give its all to protect the coach and no longer be functional, but the EMS functions can remain functional. If you read through the manual it becomes clear that these are separate. It also sounds from how they word things that the surge protection module can be replaced without having to replace the entire unit, but I'm not sure that's something the owner can do. Sounds like it has to go back to the factory for that.

Generally speaking, surge protection things are a once-and-done type of thing, meaning that they are designed to give their all to protect your equipment from a big surge. I think it's the same for these EMS units with regard to the surge protection. In the manual an error code is listed for replacing the surge protector module. It is error code E 10 = Replace Surge Protector Module. It appears from the manual that the unit will still supply power to the RV with the E10 code showing, but I'd assume that the surge protector module will be useless at that point and offer no future protection against a surge. If the unit didn't indicate an E10 error code I'd just keep using it. However, if you have reason for concern call them and ask if there are better ways to verify function.

How hard would it be for a fleet owner to install monitors on the dash of the coach? Can't be any more complicated than when we install them using stem mounted sensors. The only difference is these being built in. All the parameters would be set in the monitor, not in the sensors, just like what we use. I see this as something specifically aimed at fleets though, not the world of privately owned coaches.

The wider tires can cause issues in a few places, and they need to be thoroughly inspected. The first issue is your wheel width. Most 315s are rated for install on 9" rims so you want to check that. Next, on the rears the dual spacing has to be a certain width. Check the specs for your proposed tires and make sure your wheel setup will provide that. On the front you need to make absolute certain that the tire will not make contact on a full turn to either side, even when the suspension is at full compression (as in hitting a bump while turning sharply.) My coach has 12R22.5 tires right now, and previously someone had put 315s on it. Things were generally good, but on a full-to-stops turn the inner edge of the tires contacted the edge of the air bag mount. No good and they had to go. Finding tires in 12R22.5 is really not that difficult at all. I was able to locate at least half a dozen choices here locally, including some in stock. I went with the Fireston FS561 and find that they ride better than the previous Firestone 315s.

What exactly are you asking when you say "solve"? If you're looking to minimize your legal obligation to pay taxes, the best thing to do is contact a good tax accountant. Nothing you learn here will do much to protect you should your actions ever be challenged. One important item you left out of this is how you registered the RV in Montana - under your name or an LLC? That one fact will likely make a huge difference.

That makes more sense.

One ton? What's left? Maybe a Smart Car? Even a Fiat weighs more than a ton.

Two hrs? Looks like the battery monitor shows 2 days 18 hours remaining based on previous use. Of course, once the sun goes down and the calculations change the remaining time will suddenly be reduced considerably, at least till the next morning when the sun comes up. Those two images were taken at 10:17am, so likely the sun was just coming up to prime solar charging time. At least a few hours of good solar left...

What specifically do you want to know? Looks like you were drawing 4.8 more amps than your solar could keep up with at that moment in time.

It was a Norcold 1210IM refrigerator. The OP also mentioned in one post that it ran on both electric and propane.

OK - misunderstood. Sounds like we agree then.

Not connected to the inverter - that means that if you're not plugged in or on generator your fridge must be on propane, correct? OP is trying to run the whole shebang off the inverter without propane. My point was that if the outlet in question is being powered by the inverter right now it will likely have difficulty, which is opposite your situation where that outlet is not run off the inverter.

I don't think the question is whether there was an inverter outlet for the ice maker, rather whether the outlet is capable of powering the entire refrigerator being run on 120vac. It takes far less power to supply the ice machine than the heating element in the fridge.

Okay - thanks for the info. Makes the point even sharper - running an absorption fridge through an inverter is not ideal.