dickandlois

Kay, I think the tool you suggested is a hex / 6 point socket. If I understand the post - he is looking for a square tool / 4 point socket to remove the nut(s) Rich.

deborahheinz, There are no real high points on I-80. The highest point might be 2800ft. There are hills, but nothing very high. Some long grades, but nothing real steep. The climb up Rt-77 from the intersection of Rt-40 is a long climb at about 5 to 6 percent grade and goes for nearly 30 to 40 miles and will exceed the elevation of RT-81. Rt-95 Will have a lot more traffic and nowhere near as nice a drive. Hope this helps.

Peter, Could you post your chassis manufacture. Need to get a size in English or come close in Metric for the caliper. Rich.

alaskatom, Welcome to the FMCA Forum! Your description leads to two possible items. One is the ignition switch - start position contacts or the possibility of a failing switch to wire harness connector. The second possibility is the relay the key switch energizes is failing or there is a wire connection on the low current coil connection or the high current contact area. This is where I would start to look. This is assuming the connections and cables going to the starter solenoid are clean and in good condition. Rich.

You might consider a Sentry unit. They come in different sizes and the smaller ones do not weigh a lot, but have some good temperature ratings. There are a number of good hiding places in RV's, you just have look around. Rich.

fmcard911, The rubber roof material is not glued to the roof to a point it can not be removed if it needs to be replace. Also! there are few if any adhesives that would not react with the chemical composition. When incompatible adhesives come in contact with the rubber, it tends to bubble or form blisters and when this happens the material comes loose from the under-laminate (The bond between the two brakes down). All the mounts I have seen where screwed to the roof support ribs under the laminate. Then sealed with Dicor sealant. One needs to consider the possible loose of the adhesion between the rubber and roof deck along with the wind load while driving and strong cross winds adding a load to the adhesive(s) Personally I would not advise the mounting of the panels using adhesives. Rich.

kmtexas1@embarqmail.com You might get some information from this link http://community.fmca.com/topic/3867-wiring-diagram-for-alfa-2002/ Rich.

tarheels293, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. There is no one source for the electrical drawings. The Electrical Systems are divided up between the chassis builder, the coach builder and all the equipment suppliers that the coach builder purchased items from. What control system is used to control your Roof AC units and furnace? Could you provide more details regarding Coach electrical terminals? Cummins supplies engine information. Onan supplies generator information, Allison supplies transmission information. Much of this information should have been supplied with the coach. There are a number of members that have knowledge on many of the systems used by coach and chassis builders. This could be a process that takes time to fill in the gaps. Rich. This link might lead to the owners manual and some other information. http://www.holidayrambler.com/partsandservice/manuals.asp

So Good to hear you are having a good time. Life is sure different. Also , good to hear the fish is still some of the best one can find! Travel safe. Are you planing on taking the ferry over to Labrador ? Been reading your blog to Lois and we have both had a good laugh or two. Beings back so many memories of when we where much younger. Rich.

SharDonnay, Like Ray said. The system has a leak at some point. You mentioned that the system started cooling and reached a point where the compressor stopped cycling. Then it stopped cooling and the amount of freon was less the required. From your description of events, it sounds like the system is freezing up internally. This problem is caused by moisture that has entered the system. You will need to use a vacuum pump on the system, during this process you will see steam forming at the pump exhaust. This caused by the water bowling off under low pressure. Watch the reading on the low side gauge of the manifold - this level will start to increase one you stop the vacuum pump. Watch it for a good 30 min. to see it the gauge drops and how far the gauge swings to to "0" point. the rate of increase kind of tells you how big a leak is in the system. You will then need to run the vacuum pump, close the proper valve on the manifold set - connect a can of freon with dye and continua to add freon until the system stops cycling - at this point you need to start to watch the High Side Pressure on the high side gauge of the manifold. When you near the proper operating high pressure = keep an eye on the sight glass and watch for the liquid to be clear of bubbles. You are now at or near the maximum high side pressure, stop adding freon (you should be close to required amount. Let the system run for a time, then turn off the AC, let it set and with a black lite, look for a green glow - at some point in the system hoses, connection points, the condenser or evaporator. And YES finding a leak in the evaporator can be very challenging. This is a point where you might need to call in some help to disassemble the heater and cooling section of the Assembly. Work safe when working with freon and especially when under pressure. Do not inhale it or make contact with skin. freeze burn is possible !!! This job does require the proper equipment and a good understanding of AC systems. Rich.

Mark. Welcome also !!! The reading on today's gauges is in volts not amps. The reading is quite normal regarding the numbers posted. What make and model leveling system is the coach equipped with? Hydraulic or Air Leveling ? The red light might be and indication that one of your jacks has not has not retracted all the way? By chance is there a green light also ? This indicates power to the system. Rich.

Herman, There is a thermal sensor on the battery end, so if you measure the resistance at the end going to the charger - as the sensor heats or cools the resistance changes. The end that goes to the battery terminal only needs to be in contact physically not electrically. There are no wires directly connected to the probe mounting stud. Rich.

jhadams, Thanks for the information and the heads up regarding the cooling fan(s). Good information knowing that the new unit fit real well in existing setup. Rich.

John, I had to look at some older notes, regarding when the Check engine lights where coming on in our coach. The ECM's appear to get fussy when the alternator voltage goes above 14.2 voles + or - a small percentage and when the voltage drops below the 11.5 to 12 volt range. Most of my issues have been noise related and the voltage levels going to high. Rich.

Ronald, What Model year is the coach and what model inverter is installed ? Rich.

jhadams, Your hot spot has shown up in other coaches and if memory is still working (kind of get a senior moment at times) they happened with the Magneteck units. They have had some less then favorable reviews. Could you tell if it looks like the heat was caused by the transformer or the power circuit board? Rich.

Brenda, Take a look at this link For the 110 volt wiring for your coach. Might want to check for tripped circuit breaker or a blown fuse for the Automatic transfer switch. Also check for a tripped circuit breaker on the generator. http://www.winnebagoind.com/diagram/2006/06_g-ser_wire_153077.pdf and this link to find other information regarding the different wiring diagrams. Click on the 2006 year button = then Look for you Model and Chassis Number ! http://www.winnebagoind.com/diagram/Wiring.htm Rich.

brendailgen, Welcome to the FMCA Forum! The fact that you can not use the refrigerator indicates that the coach batteries are discharged or there is the possibility defective connection(s) or a blown fuse. So if you have a multi meter you might want to check what the voltage level is for the coach batteries. After you have been connected to shore power of a time does the battery level increase? When you mention the generator quit after 30min. Could you supply the group with the Make, Model and year of your coach. There are a number of differences between gas and Diesel coaches also. Rich.

Yudamann, You will still need the 12 volts supplied to the antenna and the amplifier to get any real good signal levels! The Converter boxes do not have signal amplifiers in them. For longer runs you might need to install a signal amplifier to boost the higher frequency channels and the higher channels numbers do not mean that channel the frequency is high. The frequency's where assigned by the FCC and what frequency was open and unlikely to interferer with other frequencies. It did not always work as planned though. LOL Rich.

Herman, Sounds like you a referring to the terminal probe, that tells the charger to decrease current when a set temperature is reached. It monitors the charging temperature of the batteries(Connects to the House batteries) My manual says to mount it on the positive terminal of the first 6 volt battery in the series. As they are connected in series / parallel ether set will work. Now, the big question is, Is the manufacture thinking of monitoring current flow or electron flow! We went round and around this one in College. LOL Rich.

John, Regarding you question about the alternator regulator being intermittent. The answer is yes and it tends to show up when the ambient temperatures get to 85 deg. and up. Poor air flow and the higher temperatures in the engine compartment does not help. Brett mentioned using a meter to monitor your 12 volt supply voltage and if your regulator is going bad, a meter can display longer term voltage changes. The issue of noise pulses riding on the 12 volt supply is only detected when using an oscilloscope and they are not common at service centers, then if it is temperature related bad regulators can function just fine when cool. I have played with the alternators supplied from off shore and there quality control is weak. Still using an off shore unit, but install Delco Regulators now on 2 different model alternators to see if indeed this helps increase the trouble free window. When we have tested the units in the rebuild shop under heavy load conditions, we have not been able to confirm or find a difference. That kind of makes our coach a test bed so I carry a spare and work at monitoring ambient temperatures while driving. With your issue being intermittent. One item to check is all the ground connections for the batteries,Engine and alternator. Loose or corroded connections are one key area that can cause the problem you are experiencing. Note. With the addition of the air pickup and ducting air directly to the alternator; the air temperatures under the engine cover is definitely lower. I now need to invest in a better remote temperature monitoring system to log thermal swings if possible. Not the normal garden variety price tag on them ether!! Rich.

jslupsky, Welcome to the FMCA forum ! The issues and items you posted, along with the problem being intermittent sounds like a voltage regulator problem. You might want to take a look at this thread where I addressed a continuing alternator problem. See if anything looks or acts the same. http://community.fmca.com/topic/3930-engine-alternator-issues/?hl=%2Balternator+%2Bheat+%2Bproblem Rich.

Yup, That works and the other option is to install a new digital TV front or rear that can handle the signal and install the converter box on the older analog set allows for 2 channel viewing. I kind of steer clear of signal splitters when working with the new High frequency channels when longer cabling is involved, but inexpensive signal amplifiers do help - just one more item to install in a tight space in many cases. Rich.

Thanks Brett ! got distracted in the middle of my post and totally forgot about the second part of the OP question. Glad you keep me on my toes! LOL Rich.

Thanks Brett, Clears up one little loose end. Rich.