hermanmullins

areale, Welcome to the Forum. With regards to the former comments, there are several people here that can or have done the installations before. I assume, from your blog, that this may be your first coach or maybe your first RV with a tow vehicle. If you feel comfortable doing auto work then you should be able to do the work yourself. So if you feel you can read and follow instructions it should not be too bad. Now to be the devils abvocate. You will be installing the hardware that connects your 2012 Chevrolet to your M/H. A good installation and you will be fine, but a bad installation can spell desaster. But as others have said $4,000.00 may be a little steep. My estimate comes up to $2,200.00 for Tow Bar/Base Plates/Brake unit/Wiring kit and aprox. 8 hrs labor at $125.00 per hour= $1000.00 and you have $3,200.00. So your estimate, depending on Parts and Brand, may be close. So, Do it yourself and you feel comfrontable, go for it. If not Check other location for pricing and have a professional do it. Happy and Safe RVing. Herman

Bob, Look at the power cable you have now. It is marked every 18" with guage, number of conductors, volts and amps. I would think you would need 8/4. That is number 8 wire guage with four conductors. Be sure and get stranded and not solid wire. What you should have is 1 Black = Power, 1 Red = Power 1 White = Neutral and 1 Green = Ground. It may cost a bit more but an Electrical Supply House would be your best choise for the Electrical Cable. Good luck, Herman Jerry, CW cables are only 30 foot and Bob was asking about a 50 foot extension. He can buy cut to length cable for less money. But hay I go to CW in Denton, Texas several time a month. We go to Denton for Breakfast and over to CW because they always have clean restrooms and I get the chance to find something that I think I can't live without. Herman

obofsooke, Welcome to the Forum. And Welcome To TEXAS. We love all the people that come to visit us. Especialy those from the North. Herman

Ferrari, Welcome to the Forum. It could be as simple as a loose wire on the guage or at the sending unit. Herman

Very nice letter to the Company and the Tech. Companies always like to hear that they are doing a good job. You old softie.

That Answers my question. Could Dadhart have a bad solenoid fuel shutoff? Herman

DADHART As my old English Teacher would say when you write in capitols it mean you are shouting. I know you are not shouting but with the problem your are having I wouldn't blame you. I believe your coach has a rear radiator and makes it difficult to do, but if you can remove the Alternator take it to one of your parts stores. We have Auto Zone, O'Rileys down here in Texas and they will check it out for free. If it is not working as it should then you are half way there to replacing it. I am as dumb as dirt on Diesels engines. I didn't think there was any thing electrical to keep a diesel running, just the starter to start it. Again I may not know what I'm talking about. Hope your problem is solved soon and you can get on the road. Herman

dogpatch, So, so right. People always seem to respond better to, "I understand what you are saying, however I feel -------" then to "ARE YOU OUT OF YOUR MIND"! Always a well phrased disagreement is better then fighting words. Lets not insult people, lets just agree to disagree. Now lets all stand, hold hands and sing *** By Ya. Happy and Safe RVing to all. Herman

Briarhopper, Valid points. I have replaced all eight of my tires in the last two years. Five last year (all were 7 years old) and three this year (6 years old). Four on the drive axle and one on the tag and then this year I replaced the one tag and both fronts. Both times the tires had no, none, nada, cracking on the side walls. They had great tread and looked almost new. However in both cases when the tires were off and I got a look between the treads. There were cracks 360 degrees around every tire. On two I even saw some steel cord showing. My advice to all is, if your tires are older then five years old, to inspect them both on the side walls and down between the treads. I know people understand Safety and I will always lean on the side of Safety and I want all RVers to do the same so we can meet and swap war stories and not road problems. Happy and safe RVing to all. Herman

bobbyks, If in Louisiana find an alligator and get under it. They seem impervious to every thing other then man. :lol: OK, you have a good point. It would not be a bad idea, if RVing during the season, when making reservations to ask if they have a safe room for guests. If you saw the pictures of the trailers spinning around 100 feet off the ground it will make you stop and think. Most of the trailers you saw were empty but a lot of loaded trailers were turned over. What was amazing is that there were no deaths and only minor injuries. Thanks for making the point of safety. Herman

As stated before, tires that old should be replaced. As to the size, ALL, ALL tires on the drive axle need to be the same size, age and same mileage (wear). The two outside tires being slightly large then the inside tires puts more weight on the outside hence forth the temp. diff. Never, I say never run different size tires on one side and a different size on the other. Tires with different Circumference will fight each other on every revolution causing tremendous strain on your differential. I hope I didn't sound too harsh. Herman

Del, Welcome to the Forum. Navy here also. I was the best friend any pilot could want. Parachute Rigger. Send me a personnal message and we can talk.

debrey, Welcome to the Forum. Nitrogen is an inert gas that does not expand in the heat as much as ambient air does. It will also absorb any moisture in the tire. To use nitrogen in your tires you would need to go to a tire shop that has nitrogen, and they will change out the air in your tires. You can also go to a welding supply store, purchase a cylinder of Nitrogen, an Inert Gas Regulator, and hose. The cylinder will cost you about $200.00 for a 150 cubic inch cylinder plus contents, however that may not be enough for the first change over. The regulator will cost between $75.00 and $150.00, plus the cost of the hose. While on the road, and you need to add Nitrogen to your tires, you would have to find one of those tire stores or carry you cylinder with you. Nitrogen is good for your tires but if you have a slow leak, bad stems, valve or caps it will leak out just like air and air is less expensive. Herman

Talk about wishful thinking. Herman

I have been told that some fuel tanks have anti-siphon baffles in the fill neck and will restrict the flow of filling. I am going to check the neck of my 2008 P/U to see, because I have the same problem as Ben with the truck. Herman

Ronnie, Again, you may have checked but how about the fuel filter. Also call Onan with your model number and serial number and ask about a priming process. Herman

jhalat, Welcome to the Forum. Do you think this unit would work in you M/H?

Ronnie, This may be redundant but how is your Oil level? Is your fuel tank below 1/4 empty? Low oil level and pressure can cause the engine to not start and low fuel, below 1/4, will not let the engine start and run. This is son you wont run the tank empty when running the Gen Set. Just a few thoughts. Thoughts are like giving Chicken soup for a dead person,"I may not help but it can't hurt".

Brett, Is that a standard window cam lock you have to secure your TV up and locked when in transit?

We have Dish Network in our home. We have 2 HDDVRs and one single Receiver. The single receiver is at our farm and when we go on a trip I just take it to the coach and away we go. Most of the time we will have cable where we park but if we don't ,we just use Dish. Some times we aren't able to receive our local channels and I will just call up Dish and they make the change and we are able to get the local channels where we are. When we get back home I just call and they transfer us back. One of there days I plan on changing out our dome for one of the new roof top dishes with 3 LNBs so we can get all three sats.

Tom, Welcome to the Forum. Help me understand. You said that you have made three trips from Chicago to Colorado. I have been to both and my second trip would have been one way. :lol: Just Kidding. Brett Wolfe will see this and give you some great advise. Listen to what he says, he knows what he is talking about.

Brett, I hope you don't mind, but I sent your pictures to a friend that also has a Foretravel close to the same year as yours. He is replacing the TV at this time.

Bill, I just saw an ad for a Moderator for a site call iRV2. I thought with your knowledge you might want to apply. http://community.fmca.com/public/style_emoticons/#EMO_DIR#/smile.png http://community.fmca.com/public/style_emoticons/#EMO_DIR#/laugh.png http://community.fmca.com/public/style_emoticons/#EMO_DIR#/biggrin.png http://community.fmca.com/public/style_emoticons/#EMO_DIR#/laugh.png http://community.fmca.com/public/style_emoticons/#EMO_DIR#/biggrin.png http://community.fmca.com/public/style_emoticons/#EMO_DIR#/smile.png

John, your welcome. The bolt is copper to make contact to the plate I told you about. Just for kicks and a learning experience take the solenoid apart and check there for arcing. It will help know what happens when you turn the key to start. Let hope this will correct your problems. Happy RVing.

Check out your starter solenoid. When the solenoid activates it pulls the Bendix to engage it at the same time a brass plate is pulled to connect the positive cable and the starter cable. If you can pull the Starter solenoid without pulling the starter you can check to plate. Too many arcs and it becomes burnt. If your plate and contact bolts are arced clean them off (sometimes you can reverse the plate) reassemble and reinstall the solenoid and see if it will start. Doing this will allow you to check the starter before you have to replace it. The starter on my 400 ISL Cummins cost $528.00 to have tech. replace it. Good luck.