hermanmullins

So, not been doing much since Rockport huh? Herman

David, Holligan is always welcome on the Forum. Congrats. on being Cheif Chaplin. I volunteer at the Bobham VA Medical Center, Bonham, Texas.

Brett, your are correct. I did not explain it clearly. Power connection from the coach to the toads battery. That will keep the toads battry charged for both restart and hopefully never needed, for emergancy stop due to disconnect.

Alan, Welcome to the Forum. I traveled the Southwest for close to 45 years. The one thing that I always had a problem with was "Where Am I". On the Radio, TV and weather stations they always talk about what is happening in Job County "The storm is moving Southeasterly through Job into the Northern portion of Sam County." My thoughts were "Am I in Job or Sam Counties??" My new cell phone shows the weather where I'm at that moment and moves with me. With this I know what the weather is where I'm at and what I can expect. Weather on the road is a perplexing thing. Maybe you can get that ap on your phone. Have a great time in the south.

Jon, Most cars in the nineties and two thousands have steering wheel locks and that is one reason to have your key on. Now this is just my thoughts. Have the steering wheel pulled and the steering wheel lock pin removed. Have your Mustang and coach wired so that you have a separate circuit for power to your Buddy Brake. This way you wont run down your battery or rack up any mileage on your speed. SR said that he tows a 2000 with no problems with lubing the trans Sounds like you found a Gem.

Jon, Since you are in the mid-life-mode let me suggest that you contact one of your local hot rod shops or really old transmission shops. Ask them if the drive shaft turning with the transmission in the neutral position will be enough for the gears to splash lube the bearings. Also 1999 mustang with a manual transmission also has, I believe, a mechanical drive speedo. It will rack up the miles. You might also ask if the 99 has mechanical or electronic speedo. Since the Mustang has a steel drive shaft it you could have a drive shaft disconnect install. Steel D/S are less costly to modify. Good Luck with the crisis.

Brett, You are correct about using boards. My point was that if you have to stack boards under the tires and the jacks you might look for a more level spot. When we had jacks I allways put boards under the jacks when not on concrete. I leveled once on gravel, I was a real newbie then, and did not use boards. I looked at the coach during Happy Hour and thought it looks as if my jack have lost some lift so I readjusted the front jack, a single jack in the center front, twice. Then I noticed my jack plate was out of sight. I had buried the jack in the gravel til there was no more travel. And it was a chore to get it back out of the ground.

My thoughts. Our coach has air bags for ride and leveling. When we park I dump my air to get the coach as low as I can before I try to level the coach. Our last coach had air bags and jacks. Then I would also dump then level. If I need to roll my coach up onto boards to get it close to level and then use the jacks, I would find another spot to park. If I have to put boards under the tires and then level I would be concerned about slippage. Tires on the ground have a grip on the ground. Boards have no grip on the ground and the tires can get no grip on the boards. When the coach is raised to level how much grip/traction do I have? Boards under the tires, boards under the jacks equals too much chance for slippage (boards under the jacks because of soft ground is OK). Just my thoughts on safety.

Rich, do you have a smart wheel? Are there cruise control and wiper controls on your steering wheel? If so you have a smart wheel. Check for your controller. It is a black box, mine is located in the compartment with all of the 12 volt fuses, drivers side in front of the front wheel. Check to see if you have a burnt connector on, I believe no. 12. If so your controller box is shot. I will find the mfgs name and post it here for you

Mahakal, Welcome to the Forum. The Forum is a place where there is never a dumb question. We have all been there, done that and all have the T-Shirt. One thing that will help you get the best answers is to always Tell what kind of coach, model, length, engine size and the mfg. of the item you may have a question about. This way you will always get an answer from someone that has the same as you and may have had the same questions. Good Luck and Welcome to the RVing Life Style.

hopper, since it affect both the AC and Heat it has to be the thermostat.

keklettk, Welcome to the Forum. Safety is one of the most important factors when raising your coach. You may lift one of your rear tires off the ground which may allow your coach to roll. If your coach is so far out that to level you may need to reposition it so when leveling, it doesn't lift wheels off the ground. Be safe.

BK5057, When you installed or had the ice maker installed did you see a inline thermister (I don't know if that is the correct name) in your wiring harness? Was it clipped on to the back of the new I/Mkr? When I install our new maker the instructions had putting the Ther. under the clip in bold letters. If I understand, that is what senses the temp to freeze and to heat for release the ice.

dinksy, Welcome to the Forum. So very sorry for the loss of your father. I'm sure he would be proud of you for trying to carry on one of his traditions. A 1987 coach most likely has a Converter. A converter turns 120volt ac into 12 volt dc. My first coach had it under one of the twin beds. Do you have power to the TV, Microwave or roof AC when plugged into shore power? Do you have a switch labeled "Battery Disconnect"? They sometime have it located near the step well by the entrance. Do you get power to the TV, etc. when you have the Gen Set on or? Have you checked your house batteries to see if they are receiving a charge when the engine is running? Have you checked to see if any or all of your batteries are OK? Sorry for all the questions but you have to start somewhere. Again sorry for your loss. Herman

Tony, Be nice to your coach, send it south. There are a lot of folks up your way and you will get a lot of help. As Brett said Full tank and additives. Brett also always says that if you start your coach you need to run it until it reaches operating temperature and hold it there for several minutes. Herman

Yes we did. Lots of people were members of Good Sams because they were not allowed to join FMCA. Many joined because they found GMCA insurance had a good rate through GS's. Others became members when GS and Camping World merged. Some just like their magazine. Yes all of us joined both. It appears that you may not know that FMCA Stands for "Family Motor Coach Association". Are you a member of FMCA?

Snob, well maybe, those are your own words. However at may RV Parks I have visited with a great deal of wonderful people in towables. They all ask many questions about my class A. Who knows just one of my answers may presuade them to move to a MH. I see nothing wrong with visiting with other RVers. I find a lot of them started with a tent to a pop up to a 5th wheel maybe I can help them move to a MH. I don't feel there any thing wrong if some area allow towables to visit. They may decide to buy a MH and become members of a chapter. They might even meet you and you could find a new friend or not. Sorry, just my thoughts Herman Mullins Vice President Lone Star Chapter of FMCA

We always have a warm welcome for guest and new members in our chapter. April is correct until you get to know someone a email is very unpersonal. Each time we get notification sent out to the membership of a new member, I personaly send them a letter by snail mail to welcome them to our Chapter. Another thing I do is every time I see someone that is from Texas on the Forum, I send them a P/M. We had two new members at our last Rally and they both came from contacts I made through the Forum. Ask, Invite, respond asap and then welcome them if they come. Herman Mullins Vice President Lone Star Chapter of FMCA

GhostPilot, Hawkins is out of business and Fleetwood is still in business. As DD69 pointed out you are looking at two coaches that are close to 30 years old and may have a world of problem now or shortly. Check out www.mrolivers.com Paul has severl later model coaches in a wide price range. Good Luck Herman

Blackmonb, Welcome to the Forum. Most of the connector on the rear of Car, Truck and RVs are a plug that is in the wire harness in under the rear by the hitch. Start at the plug and work your way back to the wiring harness.You may find it disconnected or loose. Do the lights on the rear of your coach all work? Herman

Stucky, you should have no problem going to the P/F out of Silver City on 180 it is a nice road. The only problem we had when we took that route 6 years ago was the wind. It was as windy as I had ever seen. Have a wonderful trip. Herman

RR, Check for RV Salvage on the Internet. One I know of is Colaws on the Eastern edge of Joplin, MO. Check with Camper Capitol in Garland, TX 972-276-3323 and also United RV in Fort Worth 817-834-7141. Either of these are close to you. Herman

Geary, Welcome to the Forum. Take the Bulb you have to the auto parts house. They can tell you which bulb you have and for $6 to 7.00 they will sell you quite a few bulbs. I would only go with the LED if I knew that it would emit a bunch more light without increasing the heat generated by the incandescent bulb. Herman

Peggy, Sorry for your problem. If your drain plug has a petcock (a butterfly on the end), you do not need to remove the plug to winterize. Just open it up and let the tank drain. What you need is a crescent wrench, about an 8" one should do. It can be opened to fit your plug. Remove your plug wrap it with several turns of Teflon Tape put the plug back into the water heater tighten by hand then use the cresent wrench set to fit your plug and continue to tighten the plug. If it still leaks just try to tighten is some more until the leak stops. Now to your shower head. sound like it may be plugged up from calcium or mineral deposits. You can bay a bottle of CLR and soak the head in it according to the directions. Calcium, Lime, Rust remover. You said that your last plug had an Anode on it but you didn't need it. Sorry mam, I beg to differ with you. You do need it. Go and buy your self another plug, one with a Anode and a petcock. The Anode is a softer metal that will deteriorate faster then steel and other metals in your water system due to electrolysis. Hope this helps. Herman

1/4 NPT threads on Air hose and connections. There are two different quick disconnects. I have adapter for both in the coach. I use the double ended air chuck and a truck pressure gauge. It all works for me. Happy inflating. Herman