wolfe10

David, Since you have a diesel coach, here are some suggestions: Put a BIOCIDE such as Biobor JF in the diesel tank, then fill tank all the way to minimize condensation. Then drive it far enough to distribute the biocide. Any marine store and many Academy stores carry it. Yes, a good idea to start the coach once a month, BUT (read that LARGE BUT) ONLY IF YOU CAN DRIVE A MINIMUM OF 25 HIGHWAY MILES. That is the only way to get the OIL, not just coolant up to operating temperature. Just starting it and running it in place only puts moisture in the crankcase. Be sure the tires are covered to protect them from UV light.

Yup, outer straight to outer straight= hot to hot= 240 VAC

2stroker, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. What weight oil are you using? Have you consulted the Caterpillar RV Hotline for their insights? They can be reached M-F at 877 777-3126. Have your engine serial number handy when you call them.

Herman, You are very likely correct on the "how" improper 50 amp CG power "evolves" in older CG's. Unknowledgeable or those unwilling to spend the money to pull new 4 wire heavier wiring from the CG junction box "cheat" by merely installing a 50 amp outlet and tying both hots to the single hot that originally supplied only the 30 amp outlet.

Actually the FIRST place to look is weight/ride height on the tag axle. It is WAY UNDER-loaded, drive is OVER-loaded, and you have spare capacity on the steer axle. Ideal is to have the same percent of GAWR on each axle. This will help with handling and ride as well. Check with your chassis maker for the "how to do".

Sounds like we need more input from rcieslak67. Has your system always shown 30 on 50 amp service, or only recently/at one CG?

All cars/light trucks in the last few years by law have built in TPMS's. Have never heard of issues between them. I know with our Pressure Pro system when driving the toad by itself, we take our Pressure Pro monitor with us, as we can then tell within one pound/sq inch what pressure is both before driving and while driving. No interference with the car's built in system.

Yes. welcome to the FMCA Forum. Many monitor systems verify 50 amp by sensing 240 VAC between the two hot legs. An incorrectly wired 50 amp outlet with both hots off the same side of the CG junction box would show 0 VAC between the hots. Did this occur in any other CG? Said another way, if it occurs again, use a voltmeter between the two outer straights-- they should read 240 VAC. If incorrectly wired, could read 0.

JohnRye, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. So, currently you have no oven other than the microwave? If so, my wife who does a lot of cooking/baking strongly recommends a convection/microwave oven. Suspect your available space will be one of the prime dictates of what you can go with. And, yes, I would shop for "home" appliances, paying attention to power demand to make sure you have the wiring and breaker to handle the load.

While Michelin does not endorse any aftermarket products, Aerospace 303 is a good non-petroleum product with UV protection. As far as cracks, I would recommend you swing by a Michelin dealer to their evaluation-- kind of hard to evaluate on the internet.

Michelin's official position is that a complete inspection needs to be done by a competent tire dealer at least every year, beginning at year 5 from tires manufacture date (from DOT number). And, that they positively have to be replaced at 10 years. Certainly there are a number of factors within owner's control that will extend useful tire life: 1. Always run correct PSI/do not overload. 2. Cover if out of doors to protect from UV light. Light colored/white covers preferable as they allow less heat, another degrader of tires. 3. Drive frequently enough so that the emoluments that protect the tire are able to migrate to the surface.

Power outage without auto gen set start should NOT start the generator. If no auto gen set start, check for issues such as moisture in the generator start circuit.

Keon, Pretty easy to remove an old/obsolete dish: Use a piece of aluminum larger than the hole on the roof itself to cover the hole. Bed the aluminum with the appropriate sealant/caulk for your type of room and screw it to the roof at the corners of the aluminum-- if large area use more screws. Put sealant/caulk on the screws as well as between aluminum and roof. On the interior ceiling, make a piece of wood matching the kind/color of the existing interior wood and install it over the hole.

I would recommend checking the electronics area of the generator for moisture and/or loose connection. It is not unusual for moisture in the start connections on the generator to "self-start".

ARC's closer control of boiler temperature to keep boiler temperature from going too high IS safer. Think of the factory recall box as a "fail safe" not a controller.

The ARC control MUCH more closely controls boiler temperature. The recall does nothing to control boiler temperature-- just puts it into "time out" under some conditions.

There is only one remote sensor. The other sensor is in the monitor itself (the one that is inside the coach). The remote is the same one we use inside the refrigerator in the summer-- monitor on the dash while driving.

Roy, Yes, they are correctly in parallel as far as the interconnect cables (positive to positive and negative to negative). But the connections to the coach should be positive from ONE battery and negative FROM THE OTHER. That way both batteries do the same amount of the "heavy lifting" as well as receiving charge.

phoenix2015, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. In most coaches, the duct work is interconnected/one long duct, so running the front roof A/C and closing the front vents will cool the back. Try it and let us know what you find. The other option is to contact Monaco, as they built the coach.

Nothing particularly right or wrong with 8D's vs 6 VDC batteries-- yes heavy, but on the OP's installation looks like an easy in/out. The only caution is that many 8D's are starting batteries, not deep cycle batteries, whereas most 6 VDC batteries ARE deep cycle. As long as you verify that your new batteries are deep cycle, either the 8D or 6 VDC in series will do the job. We have had both set-ups on different coaches and both work just fine.

With the Caterpillar C7, 2,000- 2,100 is a good RPM for climbing long grades where you could overheat. RPM range for that engine is 1,440 RPM (peak torque) to 2,400 RPM (peak HP and governed RPM).

And, the house batteries (the two on the right) do not appear to be hooked up properly. You want the positive to the house to come off one battery and the ground/negative from the OTHER battery.

Ray, If keeping the absorption refrigerator, strongly consider adding an ARC controller: https://www.arprv.com/

jimmyfc1, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. You will likely hear both pro and con on this. Personally, on three coaches over the last 18 years, we have always stored with jacks DOWN. No adverse issues, and appreciate having some of the weight off the tires and suspension. If not in a clean area, I would wipe down the pistons before retracting after long storage.

The problem with all that weight at the extreme back of the coach is its affect on coach weight distribution. Being 10+ feet behind the rear axle, it adds well more than its own weight to the rear axle and removes weight from the front axle. That very negatively affects handling. Both Tiffin and Herman are correct.