wolfe10

Steve, Yes, isolating your tires from the moisture is a good idea. In a month or two, all the grass under the coach will be dead anyway. Covering the ground under the coach with plastic will do no more harm to the grass and will protect your coach's underbody from moisture. If no plastic, use 2X10" to get the tires off the ground.

Actually, while motor-aid is a great feature in an RV water heater, there are a number of motorhomes that do not have that feature. Most RV water heaters are propane (unless all electric coach/aqua hot or alternative coach). Some are also 120 VAC. Some are also motor-aid. And others have aqua-hot or alternative. So, you can have multiple options for heating water.

As said, we need more specific information on both your motorhome and exactly what type of outlets you plugged into and what happened. At home was the outlet a 15 amp outlet (regular house-type outlet)? What tripped-- was it a breaker (house or motorhome breaker) or was it a GFI that tripped. If not a "regular house type outlet" what did you plug into?

If the play is in the Sheppard steering box, there is a company in Washington state that blue-prints them to remove play: http://www.steeringgears.net/?gclid=CN7U7L2IrcwCFQyHaQod_HsB8Q

John, Two kinds of potential issues (or may be complete non-issues): 1. If you have Pure Sine Wave inverter you are fine. Some appliances to not do well on Modified Sine Wave inverters. 2. For dry camping, how long you can go before recharging the batteries depends on how many amp-hrs @12 VDC you have and want condition the batteries are in (how much of their original capacity they have left).

Yes, two most likely suspects are: 1. Tripped GFI outlet 2. Tripped breaker on the inverter/charger IF you have one and those outlets have worked in the past when no shore power and generator off.

Look on the package. Many house LED lights and the halogen fixtures that came with halogen bulbs ARE 12 VDC and have a small converter as part of the package. And, yes halogen bulbs/puck fixtures were common in RV's. Here is one at Lowes (for homes, but is also 12 VDC): http://www.lowes.com/pd_409778-44513-BO-602-WH_1z0y4gl__?productId=4318662&pl=1

Until then, assume you have NO parking/emergency brake. If you don't already have them, stop at a truck stop and buy some HD wheel chocks.

GMZARNICK, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. You might send Walt a private message. Just click on his screen name (left side of screen). Then click on "Message"

Maureen, What you have is called "AutoPark". Roger Haag is pretty widely known at the AutoPark guru, and has gladly donated his time and expertise to helping fellow FMCA members with issues with this system. I would suggest contacting Roger after reading the posts here on the system. Just use the search box in the upper right and put in AutoPark

MaureenK, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Please tell us what chassis you have. That will help with identifying the parking brake you have.

Here are two sites for windshield wiper parts: http://www.unityparts.com/wet-kit/ http://www.midwestbusparts.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=16_320

Most wiper arm attachments are splined. Have you tried moving the arm a spline or two in the direction in which you want more travel?

Rich, Remember, amps available does not necessarily mean amps in. Voltage is controlled, which therefore controls amps. And, AGM's because of lower internal resistance do not heat as much as wet cell batteries (should be mentioned in the article you cited). That is why they can accept a higher charge rate than wet cells.

Mike, Thanks for the update. Glad you found the problem and it wasn't too major.

Rich, From the article: " As with all gelled and sealed units, AGM batteries are sensitive to overcharging. A charge to 2.40V/cell (and higher) is fine; however, the float charge should be reduced to between 2.25 and 2.30V/cell (summer temperatures may require lower voltages)" 2.40 times 6 cells = 14.4 VDC (bulk charge mode) 2.25 times 6 cells= 13.5 VDC (float low side) 2.30 times 6 cells= 13.8 VDC (float high side) These numbers are very close to regular wet cell batteries, so if no AGM setting on a smart charger or smart inverter/charger, wet cell settings work fine.

Wonder if the fan motor has bearings or just bushings? If bushings, may be worth trying to lube them with a light-viscosity non-detergent oil such as sewing machine oil.

Jimmy, The fact that the GFI is tripping with the refrigerator on 120 VAC, IF, repeat IF it does not trip if everything else is on except the refrigerator indicates that there is a high likelihood that the refrigerator 120 VAC heat element is bad/leaking to ground. While you can run it on a non-GFI to test, I would NOT see this as a fix for a bad heat element!

Jimmy, Yes, you could even use an extension cord on a temporary basis. To operate on either 120 VAC or LP, remember, it must have 12 VDC to the back/outside of the refrigerator.

The bridge in question: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Atchafalaya_Basin_Bridge

I am sure you have already thought of this, but move your heavy personal gear toward the front of the basement. Light stuff toward the rear. And, nothing that you can move behind the rear axle.

jmciccarello, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. One of the prime questions after verifying that they are the correct size and load range is their AGE. The last four digits of the complete DOT number which is molded into only one side of each tire indicates the WEEK and YEAR of production. This is important because it is likely that you will replace the tires due to age instead of tread wear.

Ideally, you would like close to the same percent of GAWR on each axle. Currently, your are loaded to: Steer: 85% Drive: 95% Tag: 78% So, if your tag is easily adjustable (some are, some are not), increase PSI/weight on the tag, which will lighten the drive and add weight to the front axle. And, adjusting ride height will affect this as well.

And, what are your GAWR (Gross Axle Weight Ratings)? They will be listed on your GVWR plaque.

barneyrubble, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. First, do you have both RIDE HEIGHT and ALIGNMENT SPECS? Particularly if you have a tag axle, to you have individual wheel weights (better) or at least axle weights? Armed with this information on your coach, many HD truck alignment shops can help. Hopefully, someone in your area will have first hand information on a shop to recommend.