wolfe10

Bill, I do not believe so. Would require a sender unit mounted in the exhaust. But., with a stock engine, EGT is not going to be an issue. Now, if you have "tuned it" (read added more fuel), EGT is certainly something you need to monitor.

Ronald, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. In a word, YES, it will harm the AGM's. Your inverter/charger should have three programmable choices for battery technology: wet cell, AGM and gel. AGM and wet cell are VERY similar and while AGM is the preferred setting, wet cell will be very close. Gels are different and is really the only setting that could harm your batteries.

John, You really need to determine if this is really a voltage issue or a gauge issue. Rig up voltmeter to the B+ terminal of the alternator OR if easier to the B+ (alternator in) terminal of your battery isolator (both will read the same). Drive and see if the voltage really varies, or if it a gauge issue. And, yes, indirectly the generator will charge the batteries-- certainly the house bank. It does this by powering your inverter/charger. Armed with actual voltage readings, Freightliner is where you need to go for answers to what/where to check.

Don, Very few motorhomes come with boost gauges. But most of the aftermarket monitoring systems do allow you access to that. Silverleaf is kind of the top dog. I have a Scan Gauge D (about $170). Boost is one of the menu choices with both.

While there are a few (very few) directional tires in RV sizes, those are clearly marked with arrows on the sidewalls. For the rest, direction of rotation or change in direction of rotation is a non-issue. Information to the contrary is basically a carry over from a LONG time ago.

Yes, two unrelated issues. If your 120 VAC systems (like room A/C's) work on generator but not on shore power, you need to trace the problem. The ATS (Automatic Transfer Switch) is where shore and generator come in an power then goes to the 120 VAC main breaker box. IF, repeat IF you are safe working around 120/240 VAC, you can open the ATS and check for power in from shore power and verify that you have power out to the breaker box. If 120/240 VAC is something new to you, have a qualified technician troubleshoot it. Could be the ATS, could be the shore power cord or connection in coach between the two.

Thanks, Rich. Will give it a try this weekend.

Both front and rear are analog, so they both go through the Zenith converter box.

Yes.

Thanks, Rich. I do have the manual, but it does not go into detail on where the Zenith box is in relation to antenna and Winegard VS. I am not getting 12 VDC at the roof antenna, but do have 12 VDC to the Winegard VS. Want to see how it should be wired before jumping in-- previous owner removed his satellite receiver and suspect the wiring was not left so remaining items would function.

Would appreciate some help in how to wire the following: Plasma TV Zenith converter box Winegard VS-0604/6412. Have 12 VDC in. Winegard rooftop batwing antenna DHS Surround sound system Removing non-functioning: VDV player VCR No satellite receiver Thanks. Brett

Jim, Hard to diagnose over the internet, but having not been driven for that long opens up a lot of possibilities such as "front end has not been greased for 6 years, rubber bushings dried out, etc" in addition to some actual issue related to the tire install.

TOTALLY AGREE. There is no "one answer fits all". And, posting what is correct for one coach may be the exact opposite of that is recommended for another coach.

henchmaniii, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Might need a Ouija board to answer that. Depends on the size of the hole, whether it will spread/rupture, etc. If (yes, big if) the air compressor can keep up with the leak (at present and if it grows) you are "free to move about the country". But, there is also the possibility that you will be on the side of the road with a ruptured bag and air leak so substantial that your air brakes lock up.

Ian, 192 is likely good for thermostatically controlled temperature. Newer engines are designed to run hotter. You can call the Caterpillar RV hotline with your engine serial number to verify the correct temperature: 877 777-3126. Whether the alarm goes off or not, a 20 degree F rise over thermostatically controlled temperature does mean you need to go to "Plan B". Gear down, slow down, etc.

Thanks for the "stop" signal, Herman. I left it off my initial post-- will go back and add it. Brett

Yes, a toad will jack knife very quickly. No different than a grocery cart pushed backwards. The caster makes it want to track straight when going straight and "turn like crazy" when going backwards. If there are two of you traveling together, best advice is to work together so that you have a "spotter person" guiding you. Do NOT back if you can not see them in your left rear view mirror. That allows them to walk to the other side and check for obstacles (either overhead or on the side). Work out very simple signs (when they are behind you and you are backing (without toad!): Left arm extended and waiving slowly up and down= back left Same but waiving fast= back hard left Both arms over head= back straight Right arm= see opposite of left...... On edit: Crossed arms means STOP. (thanks, Herman) Dianne can guide me into VERY tight sites. Start in an empty parking lot with a couple of cardboard boxes for marks.

Andy, Yes, it applies to your C13 Caterpillar. Basic warm up for ALL modern diesel engines (certainly all in last 15 years): Yes, it takes a bit of common sense. Warm up time should certainly be different if you are parked in a Flying J at a freeway entrance VS in a CG where you will be operating at low speeds for 5-10 minutes before really getting into the throttle. Start engine. After 30 or so seconds, raise to high idle (1000 RPM or so). Once air pressure is built/you have completed your walk around, you are ready to start driving-- at low speeds/low throttle positions. I don't like to really get into the throttle too much until coolant temperature is over 150 degrees F. So, depending on ambient temperature and how far you are from where you really need to get into the throttle, warm up time can (and should) vary quite a bit. Same for shut down. If you have driven on low speed streets, checked into a CG, etc when you get to your site, you can shut down immediately. If you just pulled a long up-grade and are in a "scenic overlook" at the top, let it idle for 3-4 minutes. Again, just common sense.

Absolutely correct. And, this applies to any modern diesel engine, not just Cummins.

Rheevs, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Here is a popular reasonably compact one from Lowes: http://www.lowes.com/pd_57655-30449-0200382_1z10d76Z1z140vv__?productId=4686711&Ns=p_product_price|0&pl=1

I can't see how you could generate 20 PSI of boost with the hose off. Easy to test. Warm up the engine. Turn it off. Pull the hose off and drive one mile or less, going to WOT at higher RPM. As long as full air pressure was built before turning off the engine, unlikely the compressor will even run at all. See what kind of boost you get. Again, I am just speculating on this (presence of boost= no problem.

Yes, if driven with that hose off, there could be serious issues. But, I am still trying to picture how you could drive with no boost-- just can't do it. So, let me ask you-- did you have a SERIOUS drop in power? If so, for how long? That will give you an indication of whether you need to change oil immediately, etc.

Guess I am confused. If that is the supply hose for the air compressor it is taking clean, PRESSURIZED air (turbo boost) from the intake manifold. If that hose was off, I can't see how you would be able to build boost. In other words the engine would have VERY little power.

Breeze2, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. You might give contact Michelin directly: http://www.michelinman.com/US/en/help/contact.html

Depending on model year, there are two terms that will give you an idea of carrying capacity. CCC and NCC are the two terms. The stickers are sometimes in view, and sometimes in cabinets. The terms will be defined on the sticker. Two slightly different ways to giving you an idea of how much of your "stuff" you can add before exceeding the design specs of an RV. Example, our 38' Alpine (two axle) has a CCC of 4024 pounds. That 4024 pounds is capacity in ADDITION TO full fuel, LP, potable water and 924 pounds for people (done by sleeping positions of 6 times 154 pounds). Fully loaded with our gear, we are still well under GVWR and axle ratings.