wolfe10

Not sure I understand how your coach is set up. Do you have an ATS (Automatic Transfer Switch) or do you have to manually plug generator or shore power to get 120 VAC to the coach? And, if you are talking about powering the house from the RV generator, that is a HUGE no-no unless done properly. Generally this is done to power the house in the event of a power outage. You will need an electrician to install basically a "transfer switch" on the house side breaker box. Were you just to plug in, you would be powering the power company grid and could electrocute someone working one the line. You only want ONE source of 120 VAC. So, either generator or shore power in your RV. Same for your house-- either grid power of (grid power disconnected) your RV generator.

Let's start at the beginning: Have you cleaned the front of the CAC (Charge Air Cooler). It is accessed from the bedroom? Shine a strong flashlight inside the fan shroud. Verify that the perimeter, particularly lower perimeter is as clean as the center (the fan blades sling the dirt to the perimeter). Is you crankcase breather hose extended to behind the fan shroud? If not, you are putting oil vapor (and then dirt) into the CAC and radiator. How old is the thermostat (may have two)? Caterpillar recommends replacing every three years. BTW, Caterpillar calls them "regulators". Have you verified that the water pump belt (a separate belt that is NOT on an automatic belt tensioner) is in good shape and not too loose? Lastly, when you say overheat, how hot are you talking about? And when this happens, what RPM/throttle position are you using?

Herman, I guess it could be, but never heard of valve guide problem on either a Caterpillar or Cummins engine with the kind of miles/usage we put them to. And, were this the issue, the smoke would be blue.

Let me clarify Herman's comment. What is at risk (admittedly very small risk) is your shore power cord, ATS (Automatic Transfer Switch) and wiring to your coach main breaker box. From the main breaker box onward, the breaker box main 30 amp breaker and individual breakers protect you. But, if anything drew over 30 amps "before" the main breaker box (a partial short for example) the wires are undersized for more than 30 amp load. But, a partial short is very rare. And a regular/dead short will trip either a 30 or 50 amp breaker. So, yes, there is a small risk. One most of us acknowledge and accept. Checking wire connections as part of an annual inspection gives even a larger degree of confidence. I am talking about checking for cleanliness and tightness the connections at coach shore power inlet, ATS and breaker box. Also that the shore power cord ends are not burned or showing signs of overheating. Just basic maintenance practices.

No first hand experience with them, but I know Henderson, Precision Alignment, etc recommend them: http://www.redheadsteeringgears.com/

Glenns, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. You have a solid front axle. So, caster is adjusted with wedge shaped shims above the axle. Any truck alignment shop can handle this-- it is basically a standard truck solid front axle with a different suspension above it. Definitely do NOT change ride height to alter caster. You will take out your transmission output shaft and likely shocks if you adjust it enough to affect caster. Also, what steering box do you have? If the Sheppard M100, they have a lot of "on center" play. It can be taken out by blueprinting the steering box. Assume your tire pressure is appropriate for your actual "going down the road" weight, not necessarily the same as on the GVWR sticker. Lastly, new tires require a break in period before they loose their "squirm".

Ray, I am not aware of any "inside the tire" tire monitor systems marketed for RV's. Bendix used to have one (an excellent one), but it is no longer marketed to RV's.

Walt, The LEAST STRONG component determines GAWR (Gross Axle Weight Rating). Could be axle, but more likely tires, brakes, suspension, etc.

Yes, all states recognize all other states valid driver's licenses. So, if you are legal in your home state, you are good anywhere. Legal limits such as speed limits, weight limits, etc DO vary by state.

Agree on RV.cams: http://www.rvcams.com/default.htm

Have driven this route several times (Houston to Angel Fire, NM). STRONGLY recommend against the "back way through Las Vegas, NM". That way is longer and roads are not as good. Shortest and easiest is from Amarillo to Clayton, NM. Then 9 miles shorter to go through Springer, but narrower road/poorer surface than going through Raton.

Carl, I have forwarded your question to our FMCA staff support person.

Really no way to tell at this point. Bulging batteries does normally means overcharging. But, one bad cell and a perfect charger will WAY overcharge basically what is now a 10 VDC battery instead of a 12 VDC one. And, if the charger is overcharging (particularly on float) it can do the same thing.

Actually GVW= Gross Vehicle Weight. I read this as "what the coach weights". Meaning a weight slip is proof unless they want to weight the coach. GVWR= Gross Vehicle Weight Rating Note: I am NOT familiar with their rule, just defining well-recognized terms.

Cut it out and install a new ball valve. Check out shark bite and other easy to install fittings.

Thanks, Dennis. Makes perfect sense. Thanks for the warning.

Bill, Understood. But some of the posts were suggesting that it was unfair to "penalize" visa via different tax rates based on weight on diesels but not gas. Since this only applies to coaches that weigh over 26,000 pounds, I believe it is a moot point. I am not aware of any gas coaches over 26,000 pounds! No, I have no comment on the thread other than that. Brett

The transmission serial number is on the driver's side of the transmission-- yes under the coach. But, your chassis maker will also have a record of all the main components used on your chassis. A VERY good document to get a copy of.

Sorry, I am lost here-- gas coaches weighing in excess of 26,000 pounds???

Carl, Allison would be the best source for that information: 800 252 5283 Having your transmission serial number handy would be a good idea.

Often referred to as "cloud point" as #2 diesel is cooled, the longer hydrocarbon chains begin to link together/gel. This can clog fuel systems. That is why in cold areas in winter the fuel is not straight #2 diesel, but a combination of #2 and #1 which does not gel until a much lower temperature. So, if you fill in the winter, you are already good to go. But, if you fill in the summer or fall before cold temperatures set in, it is a good idea to add it. Here is a common anti-gel at most Walmarts: http://www.walmart.com/ip/Diesel-Fuel-Supplement-Plus-Cetane-Boost-32-oz/16644698

http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/owners/SearchResults?searchType=ID&targetCategory=R&searchCriteria.nhtsa_ids=14E051000 RECALL Subject : Fuel Filter Shell may Separate and Cause Stall Report Receipt Date: JUL 29, 2014 NHTSA Campaign Number: 14E051000 Component(s): Potential Number of Units Affected: 63,600 All Products Associated with this Recall Details 6 Associated Documents Manufacturer: Cummins Inc. SUMMARY:Cummins Inc. (Cummins) is recalling certain Fleetguard UFF-XT fuel filters, part number FF63009, manufactured April 25, 2014, to June 29, 2014 with a date code of 14115 through 14180. These fuel filters were installed on Cummins ISB engines built April 28, 2014, to July 9, 2014 and ISL engines built April 30, 2014, to July 8, 2014. Additionally, these fuel filters were distributed as replacement service parts. The fuel filter shell may separate from the fuel filter nut plate causing the engine to stall without warning. CONSEQUENCE:If the engine stalls unexpectedly there is an increased risk of a crash. REMEDY:Cummins will notify owners and dealers will replace the fuel filter with a non-defective one, free of charge. The recall began on August 20, 2014. Owners may contact Cummins customer service at 1-800-223-4583. Cummins' number for this recall is C1545. NOTES:Owners may also contact the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration Vehicle Safety Hotline at 1-888-327-4236 (TTY 1-800-424-9153), or go to www.safercar.gov.

Absolutely the tank should be full to minimize condensation. Two months in cool temperatures, not sure I would add a Biocide. If longer, yes. And, if you fill know, you will have #2 diesel or #2 with some biodiesel content. If temperatures might go below freezing, add an anti-gel. PS anti-gel is stocked in most Walmarts.

You will want to locate the wire/terminal on the relay (the one on the engine) that is used to close/turn on the intake manifold heater. Likely it will be a 12 VDC positive, but could be the relay ground. If it is not getting the proper "signal" you have an ignition switch or wiring issue. If it is getting the correct signal, it is likely that the relay is bad.

What brand and model A/C-- quite a few different style filters out there.