wolfe10

Yes, Dinosaur Electronics does make boards for furnaces. http://www.dinosaurelectronics.com/Ignitor_boards.htm I would contact them with your model number to verify fit. Just wondering, how you determined that it is the board that is bad?

Sambar, Welcome the FMCA Forum. Sure sounds like your air suspension exhausting it air-- normally the first step in leveling a coach with air suspension. Kind of hard to believe anyone familiar with air suspensions can not duplicate the noise and identify its source. Have you called your chassis maker? Tiffin?

In a word, YES. 4 wheel alignment is common on all vehicles.

Actually, Monaco IS in business (though it has changed hands twice since your coach was built). Give them a call: Monaco Technical: 877-466-6226 Mon - Fri: 7:00am - 4:00pm PT

What was the fuel level when this occurred? If below half a tank, it may be that cornering could bring fuel level below the fuel pickup for the generator. Remember, you should exercise your generator at least 45 minutes a month under at least 50% load. This will keep the electrical components dried out and keep the gasoline in the carburetor fresh. If you can't do this, make sure you use a fuel stabilizer such as Stabil.

Depends on how you use the coach. If you rarely dry camp, 4 will work fine, though you will be running the generator more to charge the smaller battery bank when you do dry camp.

r+mbus, Not much difference in price for the same amp-hrs of 12 VDC between 6 VDC and 12 VDC for the AGM's. Mostly an issue with what fits into your OE battery tray. Most battery websites have battery dimensions so you can determine what will best fit. Example, if you have plenty of room above the batteries, you could go from a T105 to T125.

While driving, both alternator and inverter/charger are charging the batteries. But, depending on condition of the batteries, depth of discharge and length of drive/generator run time, they may not have been brought to full charge. Best first step is to leave shore power on for 24 hours, then check the battery SG (Specific Gravity). That will tell you if all the cells are OK or if you have a bad battery. The other half of the equation is to determine the draw on the batteries when they are disconnected (as already mentioned). Please let us know what you find.

zdzimme7041, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. You do not mention over what period of time this occurs. Batteries DO self-discharge, but we are talking in weeks, not days. If in a shorter time frame, that indicates that there is still a draw on them. You will likely find that your disconnect switch does not disconnect all loads. If you have an ammeter, disconnect the negative battery lead at the battery and hook the ammeter between the negative terminal and the cable. See what it draws. Other options include plugging in and/or a solar panel to keep the batteries charged while in storage.

Good job Ray-- both in identification of the problem and the solution.

Correct. Anytime you are working on a gray/black tank, tilt the coach (levelers/2x6"/ etc) TOWARD the drain to drain, then the opposite way before working on the system. Will save you a "bad bath".

More details: Inverter: 12 VDC to 120 VAC Converter: 120 VAC to 12 VDC Inverter/charger (very common): does both. Tell us whether the house batteries are charged when you are on shore power or when the generator is running (use a digital voltmeter (you can get one for under $20 and they are very important to have on any RV). Take a reading at the battery before plugging in/starting the generator and then after plugging in/starting the generator. That will tell you for a FACT whether your converter (or inverter/charger) is functioning.

Adriang305, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Couple of points: I would definitely go with one of the smart/multi-stage converters. Tell us what kind of house battery bank you have-- that will help determine what size (in amp) converter you need. How many batteries, what size/amps each?

Here is Tom's post: http://community.fmca.com/topic/2606-replacing-a-norcold-refrigerator/

stillcous, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Not sure our long distance gambling on your engine is what you need. It could be something as simple as seal in the oil cooler in the engine. I would sure swing by a Cummins shop and have them take a look at it. Said another way, delaying fixing it or using a home remedy that causes issues down the road may be a very expensive option.

?Dometic? If so, they have a number of their manuals on-line: https://www.dometic.com/enus/Americas/USA/RV-Products/Manuals-and-Instructions2/ Click on "awning" and then your model.

John, What brand and model do you have?

Basics of fuses-- they are sized to protect the WIRE. We can not tell you if the wire on that circuit is capable of handling more amps or not. Wire gauge, length of run and condition of connectors all help determine that. Said another way, do NOT upsize fuses without verifying that your system needs it (vs finding out the problem) AND that you will not enable overloading things downstream of the larger fuse (which could cause melting or fire)..

New product on the market. Plug it into a 50 amp outlet before connecting your shore power cord. It warns of: Open line on L1 or L2 Breaker off or tripped Reverse polarity L1 or L2 Faulty ground or neutral It indicates by both LED and voice if the connection is OK or what the problem is. http://50amppowerpal.com/ It would save you many times its cost if you plugged into a 50 amp outlet with open neutral without knowing it! I t could also save your life or the life of your pet if it keeps you from plugging into an outlet with reverse polarity! LOTS easier than the old way (Fluke meter and probes and making 5 different checks-- hot L1 to neutral, hot L2 to neutral, neutral to ground, either hot to ground and L1 to L2). And, with a 30 male to 50 amp female adapter, it can be used to check 30 amp outlets as well. Add a 15 male to 30 amp female adapter and it will check 15/20 amp also. Getting lazy in my old age. No, I don't work for them or have any financial interest in the company, but I like the concept for those not interested in exercising their digital VOM's before plugging in or taking a chance on doing damage to the coach electrical system.

Eileen, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. A common noise when turning on the furnace is from the fan motor. They have BUSHINGS, not bearings. When the bushings get dry they can squeal. It is also possible that a mud dubber has built a home on the fan, throwing the fan out of balance. This is one of the causes of the fan to hit the housing. You do not mention if the furnace is functioning properly-- if not, let us know how far into the heat cycle it gets: Fan comes on. Air flow is sufficient to cause the SAIL SWITCH to send an "adequate air flow" signal to the PC BOARD. The PC BOARD then opens the gas valve and triggers the IGNITER. If the THERMOCOUPLE senses proper temperature, the furnace continues to run until the thermostat set temperature is reached.

Replace, and/or grease with silicone grease (the clear stuff in the plumbing section at Home Depot, etc). It will keep them in good shape for more than a year.

Radiographer, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Would like to see you rule out a sticking exhaust brake. If it hangs partially closed (not snap completely open, it will give you those symptoms. If possible, pull over when this happens and visually verify that the exhaust brake is in the full open position. You could also visually verify it is open and then drive without using the exhaust brake for a test drive.

Many coaches have an "ignition solenoid" that powers all the circuits that are only live when the ignition is on. If you verify that all accessories and items that SHOULD work with the ignition on are not working, THAT is where you should look.

Yup, that big pool of salt water (Gulf of Mexico) sure makes a difference.

r+mbus, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Please post your Norcold model number-- that way you are more likely to get answers as to what residential refrigerators are closest in size to the Norcold you have.