wolfe10

Alang, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Have you removed the screen from the faucets to verify that there is no debris in them? You may also have a screen/strainer on the inlet to the pump. Here is the manual for the pump: http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=2&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0CCwQFjAB&url=http%3A%2F%2Fmanuals.heartlandowners.org%2FPlumbing%2FPump%2FArtis%2FWater%2520Pump%2520Artis%2520pds1rv25.pdf&ei=JM77U52ZIYy6ogSrxYHwCg&usg=AFQjCNGhofCt8oVZiAleyCiRQPMrc-v_qw&bvm=bv.74035653,d.cGU Lastly, make sure your water fill valve is closed, or your pump may be recirculating some if the water back to the tank.

Russ, Indeed, if you don't know the history, change all fluids and start your new Maintenance Log. And Transynd is what you should use. For your Allison 3000 series, buy the 5 gallon pail-- that is the least expensive. You should have about a quart left over. You will also need the Allison filter kit.

Use expandable curtain rods as fiddles: https://www.google.com/search?q=expantable+curtin+rod&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a&channel=sb#channel=sb&q=expandable+curtain+rod&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&spell=1

Carl, I go with the lowest percent Biodiesel I can find. Two reasons, first it has less BTU's per gallon so slight reduction in MPG. Second is the question mark on effect on the fuel system. I have no additional FACTS to add to that part of the discussion. We did pull into a station in Oregon with B20 and pulled right back out. Both Caterpillar and Cummins have published max bio content for each of their engines. Just got through doing a presentation for the Diesel RV Club and at the FMCA Redmond Convention. This is the latest from Cummins: • Allowable Blend • Up to 5% (B5) for all engines • Up to 20% (B20) for engines EPA ‘02 and later • Additional information available: http://cumminsengine...diesel_faq.page Caterpillar: Biodiesel – Use ASTM D6751 or DIN 51606 specification • Limited storage life • Less BTU content (5 – 7%) than regular diesel • Allowable Blend – Up to 30% for engines built prior to 1/1/2007 – Engines built on or after 1/1/2007: » Up to 5% for C7 and C9 » Up to 20% for C13 and C15

bitschee, I do not recall the issue, but with 3 12 VDC batteries to make one bank of 12 VDC, connect all the positives together and all the negatives together. Connect the positive of battery #1 to house positive and negative of battery #3 to house ground/neutral. Yes, there are very slight improvements for more "balanced" cable connections, but this one is simple and will give you 95% of the more complex arrangements.

A very good weather website for that area: http://graphical.weather.gov/sectors/centrockies.php Click on "wind speed and direction". You can look at it by 3 hour increments.

Gary, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Just did that route Ogden UT to Denver this week returning from the Redmond FMCA Convention. I 80/ I25 is the quick way with fewer grades. U.S. 40 looks to be a lot more scenic. Hopefully there will be some who have driven that route.

Yes, sine wave is preferred (required by some electronics). And I like to see an inverter rated for 2X the load. That way you are running it with good efficiency rather than at its limit.

Here are earlier discussions of using a Montana LLC to register an RV: http://community.fmca.com/topic/408-registering-an-rv-using-a-montana-llc/ http://community.fmca.com/topic/1567-montana-llc-for-kentucky-resident/?hl=%2Bmontana+%2Bllc

Bill, A call to Tiffin will tell you the brand and model of your locks and will likely give you sage advice on a fix.

First decision is what kind/battery technology you want: AGM's are probably the best and are maintenance free. If you do a lot of dry camping where you are running your generator to charge the batteries, they will also take a charge faster because of lower internal resistance. But, they are more expensive. But quality wet cells like your Trojans, IF PROPERLY MAINTAINED, can give goo, long service life as well.

And, if the coach breaker, is it the 30 amp main breaker (which is what I assume) or individual breaker for a particular circuit?

Couple of "ifs" in this: If voltage is correct 120 +/- 10%. If the A/C is functioning properly. If (probably the biggie) nothing else is on 120 VAC (such as water heater element, charger charging deeply discharged batteries, and to a lesser degree, refrigerator, etc) THEN it should work with one A/C and one other item like hair dryer or microwave unless a really big one. But, worse case is turn the A/C back to FAN for the duration of the additional heavy load.

Tildee, That will depend on how his 100 amp is wired. For 30 amp service, you will need ONE hot, ONE neutral and ONE ground. The critical part for RV's compared with some welding equipment, etc is ONE hot. So, as long as he has a neutral to the work shop, wiring it should not be much of an issue.

Never, but I guess I treat it kind of like insurance-- were I to have coach or health problems near one of the "mechanics helpers" or "pinch hit" members it is nice to know that there may be someone with local knowledge/help.

Trikequeen, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. What make and model and year motorhome do your have? What brand hydraulic slide mechanism? Does the motor make any noise when you try to stow the slide?

Will be there-- here is the schedule of seminars I present: Thursday, the 14th Suspension Seminar Thursday, 9:45 am in Seminar 4 This seminar will be webcast. Caterpillar Engine Maintenance 3:00pm - seminar 10, swine barn Diesel RV Club Business Meeting (5:30 p.m. - 7:30 p.m.) dairy barn Friday, the 15th Ask The Experts will be on Friday, August 15, at 8:00 a.m. in Seminar 4. This seminar also will be webcast.

I took the liberty of contacting Scott-- sent him a link to this thread. Here is his reply: Hello Brett, I've seen several of these tag assemblies break at the driveline cut out, the later coaches had a tag axle that had a hump in the middle so the axle would not need to be cut and the center section welded in for this very reason. The fix is to get it back straight re weld and ad some additional structure in that area to beef it up that's all you can do Also, this guy needs to make sure the tag air pressure regulator is working properly and adjusted properly if the tag is loaded to heavy it makes the problem worse.....Scott

Actually, a good question. Algae/microorganisms do not grow in clean diesel. And to my knowledge not in B5 or B20 either. They DO grow at the water/diesel interface if there is water present. It starts as black particles in the primary fuel filter/water separator. In bad cases, long, stringy "black slime" is formed. There are two ways to get water in diesel-- and you can reduce your chances by doing a couple of simple things: Fill at stations with a lot of turn-over-- if 18 wheelers fuel there, likely the fuel has not sat in the station's tank for months. Do NOT fuel if you see a fuel truck delivering fuel to the station. Those very high volume "dumps" into the tanks stir up any water or dirt in the tank. When storing your coach: 1. Fill fuel tank to reduce condensation. Any air in the tank when you park will condense its moisture out when the dew point of the air in the tank is reached. So, if you have 50 gallons of hot humid air in the tank and the temperature drops below the dew point, you can condense a cup or more of water. That water, being heavier than diesel falls to the bottom of the tank, where the diesel above keeps it from ever evaporating. 2. If storing the fuel for more than 2 months in the summer or 3 in the winter, add a BIOCIDE. Biobor JF is a very common one. Where you live in Galveston, you can find it at any marine store, as boats have the same issues storing diesel. Biocides will kill any of the microorganisms present, but their "dead bodies" will still be caught and can clog the fuel filter(s).

Out of curiosity, what algacide did you use? Be aware that algacides will prevent the multiplication of more algae, but you will still have to remove the dead bodies of the existing gremlins.

Herman, Yes, the issue with trailing arms was on the 4 air bag Monaco suspension. Unrelated to the trailing arms on his 10 bag suspension. Roger, OK, the engineer who designed the 10 bag chassis now has his own company. I would contact him-- may be tough in the short term, as I believe he is down at the Monaco Rally in Coos Bay, Oregon right now and will be at the FMCA Convention in Redmond next week. Scott Zimmer http://www.rv-chassis.com/about_us.html

Look and see if you could use a rivet to seal the old hole. Put a little clear sealant on the rivet before inserting. You may be able to use touch up paint to match side. If you intend to pain, make sure the sealant you use is paintable.

All tires on an axle MUST be the same size and preferably the same age and tread. The affects braking and on the rear axle, also the rear axle.

Water in diesel should be no worse in rain vs dry-- the water in internal to the fuel system. Could it be water in the plug to it-- yes, exactly the same as with the other engine sensors mentioned. As far as bleeding the air tank(s), please verify that you do have an air dryer. It will be the after the engine-driven air compressor and before the first tank. If you do have one (suspect you do), the tanks drains are basically a "report card" on the air dryer. If anything but clean, dry air comes out, the dryer has failed. So, water, oil or worse, a white powder, you are past due for air dryer service. Air dryer service is generally an every three year item-- perhaps a little longer if you are in the desert SW. Also, with your coach, be sure this IMPORTANT SAFETY ISSUE as been addressed: http://community.fmca.com/topic/569-important-safety-problem-monaco-holiday-rambler-safari-chassis/?hl=+serious%20+problem%20+some%20+monaco,%20+holiday%20+rambler%20+ Brett

gaudette67, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. If you have an alarm for "antenna up" that would be my first suspect, as it is on the roof and exposed to "hurricane force" winds. Water can easily be driven into the connections or switch. Other possibilities are the alarm for engine issues-- oil pressure and/or water temperature. If those connections get wet, the resistance can change. Unplug, clean (de-oxit or similar) and a silicone dielectric grease will keep them happy for a long time.