wolfe10

Before assuming that rubber valve stems are acceptable for TPMS sensors, check with the manufacturer. The biggest problem I see is the flexing of the rubber caused by the .75 ounce or so weight of the sensors on the end of the valve stem. They were not designed for that.

I also suspect the weather in Connecticut is colder than in Texas!

Yup, on grades, weight is the biggest factor on MPG and speed. On flats, aerodynamic drag is the biggest factor. So both frontal area, aerodynamics and SPEED are all factors, particularly speed.

rmcdonald, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Contact one of the TPMS manufacturers such as Pressure Pro. A tire dealer who breaks down tires may also know. A third source if information would be a Chevy dealer. That question has to have come up before. At least on our 2008 Ford with factory built in pressure monitors, it was NOT attached to the valve stem. When we got new tires, just had them use metal stems-- no big deal.

There is an easy way to find any of your posts: Click on your name (left side of any post you have ever made): http://community.fmca.com/user/11803-gadget/ On the page that comes up, on the right upper corner is a "Find Content." Click on that and it will take you to all your posts: http://community.fmca.com/index.php?app=core&module=search&do=user_activity&mid=11803 Of course, if a post has been deleted (i.e. an ad, post with legal content, obscenity, etc) it will not show up.

Have you contacted the shock manufacturers themselves: Bilstein 800 537-1085 Koni (859) 488-0339

Ron, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. No, the government mandated EPA stickers are not required on RV's. And they would be virtually impossible to generate, as the same chassis and drivetrain are used on a wide variety of size and weight coaches. You will find many MPG discussions under Class A and Class C.

JT, May be a bad light bulb, or bad intake manifold heater relay. Access the top of the engine. Locate the relay by tracing the large-gauge wire back from the intake manifold (driver's side of engine). You should have battery voltage to one large lug all the time. With engine cold, when someone else turns on the key, the other large lug should show battery voltage. If working correctly, with ignition turned on with cold engine, battery voltage will show a significant (more than a volt) drop, as the intake manifold heater is a big load.

The "Care and Feeding" a battery receives is a critical part of battery life. If not allowed to deeply discharge, water level is kept above the plates, etc, they can last a long time. I would recommend having them load tested. That will tell you whether they need replacement. Also, on any diesel, it is a good idea to use the boost switch when starting IF the house batteries are fully charged. Hard to supply too many amp-hrs when starting. Procedure is: Engage boost switch Turn key to ignition (intake manifold heater on) When light out, start Disengage boost switch

Gran66, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. You can have different tires on front vs rear, but all tires on an axle should have the same tires.

Indeed, all tires on an axle MUST be the same (actually very close to the same rolling radius/circumference). But, no reason the fronts must be the same as the backs. And, as Bill said, be careful changing rear tire size, as it affects final drive ratio.

Conceptually, at light throttle, the upshift should occur as soon as RPM in the next higher gear is not below PEAK TORQUE RPM. In reality, because the gears are not evenly spaced, some are a little higher than that.

rjproctor, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. No problem having different size tires on front vs back. Suspect a prior owner upgraded the front tires for more capacity or actually same capacity at lower PSI.

As long as the battery (or batteries) are kept charged (12.2 VDC is as low as you want to run them), it does not matter. More batteries allow you to run your coach 12 VDC house systems longer before having to recharge them. If you stay plugged in when not driving, not an issue. If you dry camp, more batteries (more amp-hrs) is very important.

And Caterpillar says NOT to fill the filter. The few seconds it takes to fill the filter is less critical than the chance that there will be a small contaminant in the oil (yes, even in new oil).

John, Your local Caterpillar dealer will have a breakdown of what you need. Be sure to take your engine serial number-- that is his basis for going to the parts book. And, for your engine, it may be that only the non-greasable hub is shown. the greasable was for older engines, but is an exact fit. Again, greasable that IS GREASED is best. Non-greasable/sealed next with greasable that is not greased the worst.

On many coaches, the alternator also provides the tach signal, so it is quite likely the two are related. The problem could the be the alternator, regulator or a battery isolator. Could even be that a wire came loose. It could also be the belt, but were the belt to break on all engines but the Caterpillar 3126, the engine would overheat. Any shop that works on alternators can diagnose this.

I agree. IF (ya, big IF) you will grease it.

John, It really depends on the access you have to the fan hub from above (bedroom or closet). It is quite likely that you can remove the fan, place it (probably wrapped up) in the fan shroud against the CAC and then remove the fan hub and bearing. Be aware that both sealed and greasable bearing replacements are available.

You also have to verify that you have a wheel/rim that can accommodate a larger tire. And that the larger tire will not interfere with body or suspension components. If you tell us what chassis and wheel size you have, someone else may have experience with your exact chassis. It will also affect your effective gear ratio.

Ann, Do any of the other propane appliances work when the stove does not (like water heater)? Can you hear/smell gas when you turn on the burner? Hear "clicking" of the igniter? What brand and model is it? Did the old stove work?

That would suggest that the PC board is not signaling for cooling. First thing is to verify 12 VDC to the back of the refrigerator (the PC board runs on 12 VDC).

Get a good evaporator cleaner (same as for your house) at any box store. If really bad, will probably need a brush as well. As toothbrush probably does not have long enough bristles.

Good question. But, quite a bit of the answer depends on your skill level. For some, a couple of screwdrivers and wrenches are "past their pay grade". Others carry a full complement of tools. I would certainly recommend carrying enough tools to change routine components such as belts, hoses and fuel filters. If you have the tools to do that, even if you don't have the knowledge, with tools at hand, you can probably find someone to help. Same with carrying normal breakdown parts, including two sets of fuel filters, belts, spare for each fluid. Noticing that hydraulic fluid level is low in a CG is painless if you have the proper fluid along. It is requires a drive into town and search on Sunday afternoon, quite a different matter.

dkontz6234, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. First, confirm that the refrigerator cooling unit is hot (feel the black tube near the burner area). If it is not hot, the heat source is not working-- could be lack of 12 VDC, could be bad PC board, thermister or, I guess bad heating element (though not working on LP or 120 VAC probably rules out the heating element. If it is hot, the cooling unit is bad and you need a new cooling unit or refrigerator.