wolfe10

Be careful. Roger (Tireman) just got back from a run at Nurburing-- and rumor has it that it was NOT in an RV.

Rich, I don't know if lift pump pressure is recorded/saved or not. A call to the Caterpillar RV Hotline could get an answer-- call with your engine serial number: 877 777-3126. Two main causes of low pump pressure-- clogged primary fuel filter and a leak anywhere between tank and lift pump. Since this is on the suction side of the system, it will leak air IN, not fuel out. Had one parked across from us last month that would not even start. Air leak in the primary fuel filter. Amazing, but diesels will not run when only air is injected. Guess they have a taste for diesel. I would be surprised that a clogged filter would give no symptoms before those experienced by the OP-- generally it starts with a loss of power at WOT (Wide Open Throttle) since this is when maximum fuel flow is needed. But, filters are inexpensive and certainly worth looking at.

Indeed, intermittent problems are hard to diagnose. But, with any electronic engine, good 12 VDC is critical. A loose or corroded connection at batteries, a loose or corroded connection at the engine ground (just below the computer on the right side of your engine) would be where you should start. Have you gone by a Caterpillar dealer to see if they can retrieve codes?

Thanks for the update and posting of part numbers. Will certainly help others. Can you tell why the mount failed?

"That could mean that the start up load of both is too much for the breaker, or as pointed out above the voltage may be too low to handle the load." Not sure I understand. The furnace fan (actually whole furnace) operates on 12 VDC. The heat pump on 120 VAC. The furnace should only very indirectly affect 120 VAC appliances/breakers (just the small additional load of the charger to replenish the battery).

Check with Monaco-- they bought Safari and still have records of parts for your Safari: Monaco Oregon Service Center. ORservice@monacorv.com. 91320 Coburg Industrial Way. Coburg, OR 97408. 877-466-6226

Towing (actually the weight of the toad) has little affect on MPG on flat ground where aerodynamic drag accounts for the majority of the HP demand. However, weight (of coach and toad) becomes quite important on grades. So, if you live in FL, the affect on MPG will be quite different than if you live in CO.

What size and how many batteries make up your house battery bank (in amp-hrs best)? Basically want to see how many amp-hrs "disappeared" in those couple of minutes. 13.2 shows a totally charged battery bank (actually 12.7 is a fully charged 12 volt battery-- anything over about 12.7 is just surface charge). 12.2 VDC is a 50% discharged battery bank. Guess my point is if you have 200 amp hrs of house battery bank and within a few minutes 100 amp-hrs went somewhere, that is a HUGE amount. As an example, a 1500 watt microwave would need to run for over 40 minutes on the battery (with inverter) to use that much power. Something is wrong here-- that is why I mentioned fully charging and then load testing the batteries.

Roy, Generally most economic speed is just after shifting into 6th gear with transmission in economy mode. On most coaches that translates to 58-62 MPH. The exception is some coaches that are geared for speed where they don't shift into 6th gear until going "higher than any reasonable economic speed".

Frank, A drop in the house battery bank voltage from 13.3 to 12.1 in just a couple of minutes indicates either a MASSIVE draw or much more likely one or more bad batteries. So, I would start by fully charging them and have them load tested. A bad battery can give all kinds of weird symptoms.

Roy, Please tell us what chassis/engine you have so we can better answer your question. Also, at what speed do you go into 6th gear (assume Allison 6 speed)?

Frank, Alternator should charge BOTH battery banks-- chassis and house. Easy to verify with a voltmeter. Check with engine off and then at each battery bank with engine running and at high idle. Both should be 14-14.2 VDC with engine running. On many coaches, the charger or converter (120 VAC to 12 VDC) only charges the house battery bank, not the chassis bank. Which bank is not being charged? And your mention of an inverter may not be the correct item-- an inverter takes 12 VDC and "inverts" it to 120 VAC. A converter, charger or inverter/charger takes 120 VAC and produces 12 VDC.

My numbers above were based on Medico's posting of GAWR's (did not have yours) and the assumption that "Tag on both-3700" meant 3700 total. So, will go back and recalculate based on your new numbers: Front axle: 7900 + 6500/14,300= 101% (i.e. axle slightly overloaded-- with left side well overweight: 7900/7150=107%) Drive axle: 7650 + 6600/20000= 71.3% Tag axle: 3700 + 3700/10000= 74% Conclusion-- lessen the weight on the tag, which will increase weight on the drive axle and lessen weight on the front axle. Next question: do you have two ride height valves on the front axle or on the drive axle (with the other axle having only one)? BTW, have set up a number of tag axle coaches-- several going back over the scales a couple of times (after each adjustment) to achieve close to the same percent on each axle-- the Monaco products are quite easy-- an easily adjustable valve in the engine room. Have not worked on your particular chassis.

So, Rich, exactly what was leaking (first post said compressor casting) and what part did they replace? Was it between engine and air compressor? Air compressor part? Air compressor to power steering pump?

See my post below, now that we have correct GAWR's and correct tag axle weights.

Correct. Tell us how far into the "running on propane" cycle you get. Remove the outside access door and look/listen for the following when someone switches refrigerator from 120 VAC to propane): Do you hear the igniter "clicking"-- for how long (directly at the bottom of the round, vertical "chimney"? Can you feel the gas valve click as it opens (follow the propane line from coach to the valve-- place a finger on it-- should feel a "click" when it opens)? Does a flame appear-- if so, for how long (look in from an angle into the burner area-- particularly easy at night-- look for blue flame)?

Dave, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Not sure there is "one vehicle fits all". Many (including myself) two a small, light, manual transmission vehicle (Ford Focus). Others like the off road capability of Jeeps. Others need larger vehicles. Here is a list of 2014 vehicles (actually you can access any model year for the last 10) to see what is towable 4 wheels down: http://www.fmca.com/motorhome/towing/204-towing-guides-towing-four-wheels-down

Bruce, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Please tell us your GAWR's (Gross Axle Weight Ratings). Basic starting point is for each axle to be loaded to the same percent of its GAWR. Some tag axles are easy to change the loading, others very difficult (depends on how the chassis maker set them up).

With the presence of algae (the black slimy stuff), you need to add a kill dose of BIOCIDE. Any marine store will have it. Biobor FJ is a common product. Carry extra filters-- the biocide will kill the algae, but you still have to filter out the existing gunk. To minimize algae, keep the tank full when storing it and if storing over 2 months in the summer or 3 in the winter, add a biocide.

To add to Rich's suggestions: You said the alignment shop set tire pressure correctly-- did they have the wheel position or axle weights? If not, how did they determine correct PSI. Per the Michelin Inflation table http://www.michelinrvtires.com/michelinrv_en_us/tires-retreads/load-inflation-tables.jsp correct PSI could be 75 or 120. Improper inflation (for your load) can sure cause drivability issues.

We really need more information. Is this on a FRED chassis (Freightliner Front Engine Diesel)? A diesel pusher? Air suspension?

And, the ISL is the only engine that could be ordered with either an exhaust brake (less expensive) or an engine compression brake. Don't know which the OP has.

It is always difficult to know what advice to give on serious mountain drives. If an old hand at mountain driving and your rig is properly maintained, a beautiful route. But (big but) this is not a route for those just learning mountain driving in a heavy vehicle. It is not the "beginners slope"! Remember, your service brakes (brake pedal) should NEVER be used for controlling your speed of descent. If use of exhaust brake/engine brake and transmission gears is not enough to keep your speed in check, get on the service brakes firmly and long enough to drop to another gear. Repeat until your speed is in equilibrium. Physics dictates that your equilibrium speed will be faster than a loaded 18 wheeler, slower than an empty one.

Sorry, I have no idea. Could be something like an "antenna up" or "slide out" warning, or could be something causing the engine to throw a code. If engine, first suspect is low coolant sensor (if it has one).

There are a number of RV storage facilities around the city. We live in League City (south of Houston) and there are several down here. Most are covered or enclosed and with 15 amp service. It is certainly possible that one would be willing to rent for a week. Would be both secure and allow you to keep refrigerator and batteries maintained.