wolfe10

Mark, Yes, until you get it weighed (4 wheel position better than just axles, as it is not reasonable to ASSUME perfect left/right weight distribution in an RV) and set tire pressures accordingly, not a bad idea to use the PSI on the GVWR plate. The pressures ASSUMES each axle is loaded to its maximum axle capacity (GAWR). If your actual weights are well under that, indeed you could be overinflating. But that is preferable to underinflating.

Mark, When you say the tires are "pressured up", are they inflated to Goodyear's recommendation for your actual coach weights? That may be well under the PSI to carry the maximum load, which is what is stamped on the sidewall. And, if they are way over-inflated, that would certainly reduce traction.

Gkleinhe, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Hopefully someone else with the same coach will respond. Until then, here is the "generic" answer. The switch likely controls the battery disconnect RELAY/SOLENOID. Usually very near the house batter bank. Follow the large gauge positive battery cable from house bank. If you find it and need info on troubleshooting, let us know.

Steve, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Are you sure they are 285's-- an odd size. 275 and 295 are far more common?

No.

With voltage varying as you describe, it sounds like the Toad Charge is cycling rather than providing its full "up to 10 amps). A simple alternative is to use a simple relay to supply the toad battery. Fuse at each battery. From fuse at chassis battery (or place near back of coach with full alternator output voltage) to relay. Ignition hot source to close relay. When ignition on, relay supplies power to the toad. Total cost under $20.

Particularly if you have an aluminum CAC or radiator, a STRONG caution against strong chemicals/non-aluminum friendly chemicals. Simple Green does make an aluminum-friendly cleaner used for aluminum aircraft: http://www.simplegreen.com/solutions_faqs.php?search_query=aluminum

Installation time is virtually the same for any engine-- it is access to the turbo/exhaust brake area that determines now difficult the installation will be. Took me about 45 minutes on our coach, but I had full engine access (fore/aft queen bed that raises).

Rather than speculate on "how old is too old" based on how WE care for OUR tires, we really have to know how they were cared for ON YOUR COACH during their life. Clearly the following help determine the safe and useful like of an RV tire: Tire inflation always above minimum speced by the tire manufacturer for actual weight. Driven frequently (better) or parked for months at a time? Stored indoors, under cover or outdoors? When stored outdoors, are the tires covered? I have seen 5 year old tires I would not drive across town on and seen some years older than that that were still in good condition.

Pink, The term "up to 10 amps" is the real issue. Just before you hook up and start towing next time, use a digital voltmeter to check voltage at the toad battery-- record it. Then after towing long enough for the indicator to tell you toad battery voltage is low, with the DP engine still on, go back and use a digital voltmeter to check voltage at the toad battery. That will tell you whether the Toad Charge is providing adequate wattage (volts times amps) to keep the battery charged for both auxiliary brake (if electric) and your lights. If not, start by verifying connections all the way from coach battery to toad battery. Are you tied directly to the coach chassis battery? If not, where?

We have the PRXB on our Caterpillar 3126 and do recommend it. It is exactly as advertised-- 30% stronger at lower RPM-- the same at high end RPM. What it does is allow full backpressure at a much lower RPM. No idea of current cost of the brake. Installation if you already have a PacBrake should not be that much, IF (big if) there is access to the driver's side of your engine room where the exhaust brake is located. My suggestion would be to access that area and take pictures before asking for labor bids, as I have seen applications where the mechanic spent hours just removing one bolt and others where he could sit on the valve cover and do the whole job in an hour.

dgrandusky, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Three places come to mind for warmth-- FL, south TX and AZ. Of course they would be via very different routes. Any preference?

Paul, Tell us where you will be flying in/starting the trip and points along the way that are "must see's" and perhaps we can offer suggestions. Also, tell us what kind of things interest you.

Megann, You need to verify that with the water heat breaker off that the charger section of your inverter/charger does not work. The only explanation I can think of is that they wired both the water heater AND the inverter/charger to the same breaker on your 120 VAC breaker panel. That would not be a good idea! Please verify that you have a separate breaker for each. If they are on the same breaker, you need to see if there is another available breaker of the correct amp rating that can be used, or if there is a block-off plate where you can add another breaker. IF YOU ARE NOT SAFE WORKING WITH 120 VAC, HAVE THIS DONE BY A PRO. If they are on a separate breaker, you need to troubleshoot the reason that the turning off one breaker affects another circuit. Brett

Agree, something else is going on. Your electric 120 VAC element in the water heater should NOT be running through the inverter/charger. So, unless it is diminishing voltage or drawing sufficient amperage to open the breaker, I can't see the relationship.

Megann, Pull out your Xantrex owners manual or pull it up online. Go to "programming" or "setting dip switches" (depends on age of inverter). One of the programming options is "power share" or "power save". What it does is limit the amps that the inverter/charger can use for battery charging. Lowest setting is generally 5 amps. Try that. And, at high amp demands, particularly if minimal size house wiring and/or an extension cord, voltage can drop below acceptable levels. Check voltage with a digital voltmeter at any outlet in the coach when this occurs. Acceptable voltage range 108- 132 VAC (120 VAC +/- 10%). And, lastly make sure no other high amp draws are running. Things not easily seen like 120 VAC water heater element, block heater, etc. Brett

The Sable was a rare beast-- very few made, so not sure anyone here on the Forum can help. I would suggest you call Monaco and ask to speak with one of the old hands who came over from Safari. It is possible that they have a wiring schematic for your coach: 877-466-6226. Have your VIN handy.

Gerald, Can GFI outlets wear out-- yes. And, yes a GFI outlet from a box store will work assuming its dimension are the same as your current outlet. That is not to say that there isn't a problem with the ice maker. But as you suggest, replacing the GFI is a reasonable first step if the ice maker works on another GFI protected outlet.

Not sure of the difference-- gently pulling the motorhome forward or gently backing the toad up. In both cases you are locking the bars in the EXTENDED position. I will admit I often gently push the toad back to achieve this-- at least locking one arm in the extended position. Then drive the coach forward gently, turning slightly to lock the other arm. And, if the arms don't lock easily, determine the reason and fix it. Tow bars live in a relatively dirty environment and can get "gunked up"

Frankly, since the merger, Flying J has ceased to be price-competitive. http://www.gasbuddy.com/ is my friend.

Jerry, Have you called Freightliner, Gaffney with your VIN? That would be where I would start.

Jerry, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. What chassis do you have-- that may help identify the location of the proper wire.

usbears, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Read the wattage-- most are 1200-1500 watt. About the same as a space heater. But they move a lot of air and that air is exposed to outside temperatures as it moves up through the A/C upper unit. So, your space heater of the same wattage will actually give you not only more heat, but because of the fan the space heater will likely feel a lot warmer. Brett

Actually sufficient caster and proper toe-in make a significant difference in tracking. And, for your complaint, I would start with track bars. If you are not familiar with them, here is what they do: Those long leaf springs and the shackles allow side to side movement of axle to chassis. When side winds, bumps, etc cause this to happen, it IS a steering input. This requires you to make a steering input to correct. A track bar (aka Panhard rod) allows for full vertical movement between axle and chassis, but substantially minimizes side to side movement between them.

OK, in order, here is what I would do: Set tire pressure per tire manufacturer's recommendation based on actual weight. Check and replace any sway bar bushings that are not 100% Check shocks-- don't automatically replace. Drive over parking lot speed bumps at normal/low speed. If an axle bounces more than 1.5 times, shocks need replacing. If it doesn't bounce more than 3/4 of a cycle, they are too stiff. Get an alignment by a good truck shop that will set caster toward max of specs and verify correct toe-in. Track bars (aka panhard rods) front and rear. STOP and evaluate results. Let us know symptoms at this point and we can help spend your money. Brett