wolfe10

Have you verified that the fans ARE going to high-speed. Check, but on many, disconnecting the hydraulic fan controller wire defaults the fan speed to high. If it doesn't overheat with wire disconnected (again verify this is how yours is set up) suspect controller issue OR improper input to controller from engine computer.

An engine compression brake, AKA Jake Brake works by opening the exhaust valve as the piston comes to TDC. Clearly, if the exhaust valve were opening when you are on the throttle, power would be WELL down. No, I am not suggesting that is the issue-- clearly we can't make that determination over the internet.

Gary, Not sure I understand. If pressure test showed the cylinder good, why pull it down to look at the piston. I would think a bad piston/rings would show up on a pressure test. With that said, very difficult for us to do a better job of diagnosing an engine problem over the internet than a hands on tech for your engine brand.

Ron, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. You might go back to the second post in this tread to identify if you have the faulty trailing arm design. I believe (you need to verify) that you have the 8 air bag Monaco suspension, not the 4 bag that had the trailing arm issues.

Charles, When you get this information, you might post it: Looking at the GVWR tag, what are your Front axle GAWR, Rear axle GAWR and Total GVWR? It is likely near the driver's area. What tires do you have-- brand and size?

Charles, I went back to your first post and put in the correct right side weight. You need three pieces of information for us to be able to help you: What chassis do you have-- basically is it leaf spring or air suspension? Looking at the GVWR tag, what are your Front axle GAWR, Rear axle GAWR and Total GVWR? It is likely near the driver's area. What tires do you have-- brand and size?

Start by taking the coach to a tire dealer and checking RUN-OUT. Even if balanced, an "egg shaped" tire will not perform well. Then, after verifying that run-out is less than .035", spin balance them on the rig. If tires are badly cupped or worn, rotate the best two tires to the front and then check the new front tires for run-out and balance.

Good idea to double check with mechanical gauge. Your chassis maker chose and installed the sender unit for the dash gauges. Check with them for it's location. But, yes, it is generally on the passenger's side of the engine. And, as the Caterpillar tech told you, if oil pressure is too low, the engine will just quit running, as oil pressure is used to "power" the fuel injection.

Howard, Two things can cause items powered by the key in the ON position to stay on with the key off. 1. First suspect is the IGNITION SOLENOID. Find it. It is "turned on/off" by receiving 12 VDC positive from the ignition switch. If the points are burned, they can hang up and keep those circuits hot, even if the signal from the ignition switch is turned off. Find it. Tap on it when you are experiencing the symptoms with the plastic handle of a screwdriver-- sharp, LIGHT rap. That may free up stuck points (temporarily)-- if this works, replace it. You can also check it electrically with a digital voltmeter (under $10). You should have 12 VDC positive to one of the large lugs all the time (from chassis battery). The other large lug should ONLY have power when the small signal wire from the ignition switch has 12 VDC positive. If both large lugs have power all the time, even if you have the key off and remove the small signal wire, the solenoid is bad. 2. If, however, that small signal wire has power (12 VDC positive) all the time, you have a problem in the ignition switch or wiring. In other words, it is telling the ignition solenoid to stay HOT (both large lugs with power) all the time. Brett

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I have not seen anything that indicates that Walmart's "Great Gas Rollback" has been extended: http://www.walmart.com/c/store/search?e=2013-spring-gas-rollback As far as I know, it ended 7/7/13. We used it a lot while it was on.

EXCELLENT, Doug. Thanks. If a picture is worth a thousand words, you just posted a novel.

I agree. If battery banks are not isolated AND you are on shore power (so that your converter, charger or inverter/charger is charging the house bank), it would also keep the chassis battery charged.

Yes, assuming one wiper of offset to one side, should be an easy loosen the splined connection and realign. On some, if the wiper is cocked/angled the smaller arm can be loosened and "aligned"-- basically pivoting the wiper around the attachment point.

Some good observations, and some "hoodo". While a smart charger or smart converter or smart inverter/charger can optimize charging perimeters for different battery technologies, they could care less if that 220 amp hour @12 VDC "battery" was made up of two 110 amp hour 12 volt batteries in parallel or two 220 amp hour 6 volt batteries wired in series. I would agree that either interior installation and/or difficulty accessing them WILL favor AGM batteries, as they are maintenance free AND don't out-gas unless severely overcharged.

I would certainly agree with checking that all connections in the ATS are TIGHT. Obviously, with the generator off, shore power off and inverter turned off.

Rich, If you are talking about tire covers, no question, white is best for the tires-- many degrees cooler than the black ones (though the black ones may LOOK cooler).

Actually, you have a good handle on it. Because wet cell golf cart batteries are sold in such huge volume, they are the least expensive deep cycle battery. But, cost of production is not that much different between 6 and 12 volt. As I mentioned above, no significant difference in price when you get to AGM's of the same quality and capacity. So, repeating, your first decision is whether you want/need AGM's. If not, golf cart batteries make a viable choice is sticking with wet cells.

There are good reasons for before AND after. Advantage of before: protects ATS. Advantage of after: protects rest of 120 VAC system from both shore and generator.

Don, We have driven 9 from Hachita (came in from Deming) on over to 80 and then on to Bisbee. No problem. Yes a back two lane road, but almost no traffic. We would take it again of going that way.

Butch, Let me make sure I understand the problem: When the A/C's reach temperature and turn off, ?the generator continues to run?. But, when the thermostat signals the A/C's to turn back on, the generator: DIES CONTINUES TO RUN BUT THE A/C'S DON'T START OTHER

The debate over two 6 VDC batteries in series vs two 12 VDC batteries in parallel has been going on a LONG time. Basically, for the same quality, chemistry (wet, vs AGM vs Gel) and total amp hour ratings, there is no clear answer. The reason 6 VDC batteries are popular is that golf cart batteries are deep cycle and much cheaper (because of the production/marketing volume) than 12 VDC batteries of comparable quality and ratings. This is especially true of wet cell batteries-- much less so for higher-end batteries like AGM. So this sentence is meaningful: "Golf cart batteries are the least expensive deep cycle battery". NOT the best battery, but least expensive good battery. First choice is what battery technology: wet cell are the least expensive deep cycle batteries (golf cart batteries). AGM's are more expensive but offer real advantages-- they are maintenance free, don't out-gas unless severely overcharged (they are even legal to ship by air freight in the U.S.), and, can accept a much higher recharge rate (important if dry camping and running the generator to recharge).

Welcome to the FMCA Forum. First, most inverters are really inverter/chargers-- assume that is what you have. And when an inverter/charger "sees" a source of 120 VAC from shore power or generator it automatically activates the charging circuit (as well as "pass through" the 120 VAC from that external source. Turning off the inverter switch will not change this on the vast majority of applications. And, as to whether the solar and/or inverter/charger will charge the batteries, that depends of depth of discharge of the batteries. Once charged up, it the inverter/charger is set to a higher voltage, it will do most of the charging. If the solar controller is set to a higher voltage it will do most of the charging up to the amp capacity of the solar panel(s), My advice-- VERIFY that the inverter/charger is properly programmed. Same for the solar controller (if a smart one and you can program it). Let them work together.

Step one is replace the batteries-- you know they are shot. Step two will be to check charger performance and fan operation with the new batteries in place.

Woodblocker1953, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Best advice is to start looking at coaches to start identifying those things that are important to you. Do this both in person in your area and on-line. Here is a large consignment lot-- I believe the largest in the U.S. You can look at what they currently have and also, history of what has sold: http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/used_rvs_for_sale.htm Then begin looking for examples of coaches having the attributes important to you. There is certainly a trade-off between age and quality. Said another way, you can buy an older higher-end motorhome for the same price as an entry level newer one. No right/wrong answers-- depends on what is important to you.