wolfe10

What year, what chassis? Is the is a new issue, or an ongoing one? Have you measured voltage at the tail lights and compared with battery voltage? Have you temporarily rigged an additional ground for the lights-- did it improve the situation? If low voltage to the lights is the issue, it is easy and under $20 to rewire tail lights (or any others for that matter) through a RELAY so that they get full voltage. Did this on our present coach for tail lights, low beams and high beams. The original wires only act as the SIGNAL to close the relay, providing full battery voltage to the lights.

gwdoug2002, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. What size/model Norcold do you have-- that will dictate what your choices are for a residential refrigerator replacement.

John, Excellent diagnostics and description. The operative here is your statement: Test light shows POWER to ignition wire, then soon it clicked OFF. Did this a few times. Assume you mean you have 12 VDC positive from the ignition switch when tested at the small terminal on the ignition solenoid. If, indeed this is what is getting 12 VDC positive and then loosing it, then the problem is "upstream" of the solenoid. The only fly in the ointment is that you said the jumper wire from battery lug of the solenoid to the signal terminal was getting hot. This should be only carrying about ONE amp (it doesn't take much power to close the contacts). Guess it is possible that a high amp draw by the solenoid could adversely affect the signal from the ignition switch. For example you could have a resettable breaker that is making/breaking because of excessive draw. If you have an ammeter, would be interesting to compare draw on the signal wire with specs for your solenoid. And, if you do replace the solenoid, yes, it needs to be CONSTANT DUTY and rated for well-more than the load it will be carrying. Many of us have gone to a more expensive and MUCH more reliable electronic switch such as this million cycle rated switch capable of 450 amps continuous and 1500 amps for one minute (cranking): http://www.bluesea.com/products/9012 On our last coach we went through 3 "regular" constant duty solenoids in the first 70,000 miles. Replaced it with the electronic switch and zero issues for the next 100,000 miles. And expect it to go for at least the life of the coach. Brett

Jim, Give Winnebago a call-- they can tell you very quickly where to look and how to troubleshoot.

Yes, if the chassis is torqued excessively, either by jacks, extreme, angled dip, etc, you CAN cause a stress crack in a windshield. And, unlike a rock chip, a stress crack can not be repaired.

A couple of point that may make this more understandable. A coach does not "use" 50 amp or 30 amp service. More accurately it is wired to "allow the use of up to XX amp service". If all you have on is a light bulb, that 50 amp service may only be providing 1 amp. And, some "RV math": With 50 amp service, you have TWO 50 amp hots. So a total of 100 amps AVAILABLE. If you look at the CG breakers, you will see two 50 amp breakers, not one. With 30 amp service, you have ONE 30 amp hot. So the difference in what you can use (number of amps available) is NOT 50- 30=20. It is 100- 30= 70!!!!! Said another way, you can use WAY less power on 30 amp service than on 50, not just a small difference. So, with 50 amp service, you have the two hots, a neutral and a ground (yup, that is 3 straight prongs and a round). With 15, 20 and 30 amp service, you have one hot, a neutral and a ground (two straights and a round). When using an adapter from 15, 20 or 30 amp shore power to 50 amp coach, the single hot in the male end connects to BOTH hots in the 50 amp end of the adapter. Brett

Note: Sam's comment about front air bag pressure applies to Chevy and Workhorse P chassis with independent front axles. It does NOT apply to Workhorse W chassis which have a solid front axle. That is why it is always a good idea to post specifics on your chassis.

Is tire pressure, particularly in front your tire manufactures recommendation for your ACTUAL WEIGHT, plus, perhaps a 5 PSI safety cushion? Well over or under-inflated tires really affect tracking. Have you had it aligned? Was CASTER set toward high end of specs? They will never drive like a car, but proper tire PSI, alignment, good sway bar bushings and perhaps track bars/panhard rods all help.

Yes, welcome from "across the pond". Leisure battery is a new term to us. Here we call them CHASSIS and HOUSE batteries. Which is the leisure battery and how is it supposed to be charged? And, as Stuart asked how long does it take to discharge? Have you had the batteries load tested after fully charging to verify that they are indeed in good condition? Normal means of charging over here are: Chassis battery: Alternator with engine running. On a few, also charged from the converter or charger when 120 VAC is supplied from generator or shore power. House battery: Alternator with engine running. From the converter or charger when 120 VAC is supplied from generator or shore power.

John, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Yes, sounds like either an ignition switch OR the ignition solenoid. Easy to diagnose. Next time this happens (if it does) go to your ignition solenoid with voltmeter. Check for 12 VDC positive to the signal wire (small terminal) from the ignition switch. If no power, ignition switch or wiring from it (or fuse) bad. If power, but only one large lug of the solenoid is hot, the solenoid is bad. To test if no 12 VDC positive on the signal wire, connect a jumper (can be small-- only carrying less than one amp) between the large lug with 12 VDC positive to the small signal terminal that comes from the ignition switch. The solenoid should snap shut and you should have 12 VDC positive on both large lugs.

TallahasseeJoe,Have you had the alignment checked? If so, what was caster and toe-in. Both are important for tracking.

If not too oxidized, use a good paste wax on the fiberglass, but do not get the wax on the vinyl decals. If it is oxidized, start with a good compounding, then wax. Use 303 Aerospace on the decals.

Retiredhfd, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Your chassis maker specs and installs the power steering system. What chassis do you have?

Do you have a painted coach? Gel-coated fiberglass? Filon? Are decals painted or vinyl?

Don't think I would take an RV over the Franklin Mountains on 375. We just plan on hitting El Paso at non-rush hour. Rarely get below 50 MPH on I 10.

Yes, some steering wheels can be centered by shortening/lengthening the drag link. BUT, that will also change the cut angle, which may require steering stop/steering box cut angle adjustment. I would call a good RV alignment shop such as Henderson or Precision Frame and Alignment to determine the correct way to do this on YOUR coach.

I would be more comfortable with through-bolting the seat belt bolts rather than using lag bolts (assuming you can access that area of the basement/undercarriage.

Please tell us what kind of motorhome you have so we can be of more assistance. Also, what kind of tank size you need for propane (what you are going to run on it) and how many PSI you need on the air. Thanks.

Yes, having brake pads or shoes "weld" themselves to the disks/drums is a reasonably common phenomenon-- particularly if stored right after driving in rain or storing in a very humid area. Gently going from D-N-R-N-D.... usually brakes it loose. Be sure to have a foot ready to step on the service brake as soon as it brakes loose.

dddlin, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. I am not sure "have to" is necessary, but since you will likely replace the tires based on age, not tread wear, you will be giving up a year of tire life on those 4. See if he can order fresher tires.

Jim, Our speculation won't help you-- could be a faulty LED or an indication of a real problem. You need to VERIFY that your shore power is correct. If you are safe working around 120 VAC, use your voltmeter to check the CG outlet: If not, have the CG do it. The two outer straights are the hots L1 and L2. The center straight is the neutral. The center round is ground. So: From either outer to center straight or center round= 120 VAC Center round to center straight= 0 VAC Outer straight to outer straight= 240 VAC Brett

Jim, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Are you looking for new or used? Length? Price or other criteria?

Check with your chassis maker, but most recommend disconnecting the batteries, two gang plugs on the Allison ECM and PC boards such as refrigerator, furnace and water heater.

From any auto parts house, get a radiator pressure tester. Pump the cooling system up to opening pressure on radiator cap. Should be easy to find that size leak. Check not only engine compartment, but also up front around the heater core.

Gary, First, since you said that the front A/C is not working, I would rule out the inverter-- VERY VERY few coaches will allow the A/C to be powered by the inverter. Let's start by what you know does work: Since everything works on generator, the 120 VAC system from ATS (Automatic Transfer Switch) "onward" is OK. So, the problem could be in the CG outlet, your shore power cord, wiring to the ATS or in the ATS itself. If you are safe working around 120 VAC, pull out your voltmeter. At the shore power outlet: The outer straights are the hots The center straight is neutral The center round is ground. From either outer to center straight= 120VAC From either outer to center round= 120VAC From outer straight to outer straight= 240VAC Center round to center straight= 0VAC If that checks out, and again you are safe working around 120 VAC, turn off all power and remove the lid of the ATS. Check for the same things there (two hots, a ground and a neutral). Now to straighten out some terms-- assuming what you have is an INVERTER/CHARGER. When the inverter/charger sees 120 VAC from any source (generator or shore power) it does TWO things-- turns on the charger section of the unit (120 VAC to 12 VDC) AND "passes through" the 120 VAC to all circuits downstream of the inverter or the sub-panel powered by the inverter. When there is no external source of 120 VAC and the inverter is on, it takes 12 VAC from the battery and makes 120 VAC, but only to those circuits wired to be able to work off the inverter.