wolfe10

Really two separate issues here: 1. Will you get a ticket for over-length-- either as primary reason for stop of a secondary one. 2. If you are involved in an accident, how will the fact that you are operating an illegal vehicle affect your liability.

Kevin, Many but not all block heaters are plugged into a regular style 120 VAC outlet. Easy to fine out-- just follow the wire from block heater (engine) to where it goes. And, yes, if you are not competent doing 120 VAC wiring, have someone else do it. Your coach maker should be able to tell you if/where non-inverter powered outlets are since they wired it. Brett

See if you have two 120 VAC outlets in the back of the refrigerator (outside access area). If so, often one is not inverter powered. Another alternative if you have a block heater outlet, it should not be inverter powered. If neither of those work out, you can always wire an outlet from the main breaker box particularly if you have a blank place for an additional breaker. Brett

With everything working, identify what items work only with the ignition on. They will include the dash HVAC fan, etc. Next time your electrical gremlin shows up, see if all these ignition-controlled items are inoperative, or just part of them. If all, either the ignition switch, wiring from ignition switch to ignition solenoid or the ignition solenoid is bad. Let us know what you find and we may be able to help with the troubleshooting. As already mentioned, with any electrical issue, it never hurts to tighten all electrical connections, particularly at the batteries. Brett

Rich, Is your fuel pressure sensor OE, or did you install it? Is it on fuel pressure out of the pump or is it a vacuum gauge showing restriction in the filter(s). I am not familiar with the warning light system that Pen Ray has-- would be helpful if he or someone else can confirm how it is supposed to work and then see if his is operating as it should or not. Most lights I am familiar with on diesels at start-up indicate glow plug/intake heater grid activation, not fuel pressure. Brett

Actually, the air bags are an integral part of the front suspension on a P chassis. Alignment will be thrown off without them. And recommended PSI is based on what front axle GAWR you have. Your manual should give you guidelines. If not, let us know your front axle GAWR and perhaps someone else can look it up. Brett

Darbone, Welcome the the FMCA Forum. You have chosen a very reliable coach/drive-train. Be sure to get any maintenance logs or receipts the previous has accumulated. That will give you a good baseline for determining what/when preventive maintenance needs to be done. Plan to come to an FMCA Convention and attend the many free seminars to help you get acquainted with the "care and feeding" of your new motorhome. As an example, here are the seminars that will presented at the next Convention in Indianapolis next month: http://www.fmca.com/...polis-2012.html Brett

If the refrigerator tripped not only your built-in GFI, but a second GFI, that suggests that there is a problem with the heating element-- likely grounding to the refrigerator flue. Said another way, very unlikely that two different GFI's are bad and refrigerator heating element good. Brett

With those symptoms, here is what I would do: By hand, turn over the generator motor to make sure it is free to rotate. Put a digital voltmeter on the generator starter large lug. Attempt to start the generator. If voltage at the starter is below 12.0 VDC, check all connections, both positive and ground (actually, particularly ground). Brett

I know this is not your question, but how have you determined that your starter/solenoid are bad?

Bill gave you good diagnostics. It is not uncommon for the 120 VAC heating element in the refrigerator to make contact with part of the coach ground (refrigerator metal). That will (and should) trip the GFI. Sometimes, just moving the heating element will remedy it, sometimes it has to be replaced. Brett

Juan, With good battery voltage and symptoms of low voltage at the starter (check voltage at the starter when someone else turns the key) the first thing to do is to clean and tighten both positive and ground connections at batteries and coach ends. If you check voltage at the starter and it is materially lower than at the battery-- again a symptom of poor connection/bad cable. Brett

Juan, As I asked earlier, have you checked voltage at the chassis and at the house bank while sitting and also while cranking the engine? Brett

I would state that just a little differently: You can't use an off the shelf adapter to get 50 amps from a pedestal with a 30 amp and a 20 amp GFI. A knowledgeable electrician can re-wire a coach to split the circuits in the coach to use both the 30 and 20 GFI outlets to provide up to 50 amps of 120 VAC-- HALF the amps a standard 50 amp outlet provides. Brett

Though I did not read the whole report, two things caught my eye: They linked reduced PSI with increase in rolling resistance-- something we all know. Indeed, if one does not maintain tire pressure, loss of MPG WILL result. BUT, yes big BUT on page 58, they admit they compared "wet air" with Nitrogen: "The permeability of air in tires at higher temperatures is greater because air contains moisture. Water is usually present in the case of conventional compressed air. At lower temperatures, as a liquid, water occupies very little volume." And at the bottom of page 58 they say: "However the change in pressure of both the inflation gases would be in a similar pattern if air used for inflation is dry." So, as we have already discussed in this thread (and I believe all agree), if you don't check and maintain tire pressure, you will experience increased rolling resistance and loss of MPG. But, testing "wet air" vs Nitrogen kind of stacks the results. I didn't see a comparisons of dry air vs Nitrogen or if is in the other study which I did not read, please point it out. Also, if their contention is that Nitrogen gives less rolling resistance/ better MPG because use of air leads to under-inflated tires, many of us would question that premise. I know I check tires (TPMS) each time I drive. If more than 2-3 PSI low, I bring them back to spec-- NOT required very often! If my skimming the material has lead to a misinterpretation, please let me know. This statement is close to unbelievable-- and the reference (6) is a dead end: "The above results show that by using nitrogen inflated tires, the rolling resistance can be decreased by about 70%. Hence, for a reduction of 70% rolling resistance in tires, fuel economy can be improved by 23%." Brett

Juan, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Start by checking voltage at both house and chassis batteries. A lot of strange things happen with below 12 VDC. Do you have shore power-- if so, charge up both banks, either from the on-board converter or a portable battery charger. THEN recheck everything. Brett

Bilstein 858 386-5900 Koni Shocks Jim Ryan (859) 488-0339 Brett

Thestick5, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Did you change the two filters? You should drain 17-19 quarts when draining the Allison 3000 and changing the two filters. I am concerned by the "4 quarts low" issue. The transmission is basically a sealed system (transmission and cooler). Loosing a GALLON is significant. What fluid did you go back with? If Transynd, it not unusual for it to run cooler than Dexron. I would not drive until you resolve the oil level issue. If too much oil in it, you can aerate the fluid and cause all kinds of issues with the transmission. By the same token, you can do damage of run too low on fluid. Brett

RB, Give Shurflo a call: Shurflo 800 762-8094.

Ron, Yes, I am using it right now! No changes. Compared with signal strength to other boosters in the same RV park, this one tops the list. As others have posted, if you are an electronics guru, you can probably piece together a systems for less. But, if you want a complete system that anyone can install in minutes and use, I still put this one at the top. Brett

Yes, a relay and solenoid perform the same function. Brett

Sorry, guys, but the Ideal Gas Law applies equally to N2 and DRY air. There is no difference in PSI change with temperature change between the two. This is NOT new information: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ideal_gas_law Brett

Clearly, you are loosing 12 VDC somewhere between the battery and the appliances. Don't know if you have a manual battery disconnect switch or a solenoid battery disconnect switch as Herman mentioned. Start by making sure that the disconnect switch IS in the on position. If the switch does control a solenoid, it will be somewhere near the house battery bank. With switch off, one large lug should have the same voltage as at the house battery. With switch on, the other large lug should have the same voltage. If it doesn't, disconnect the small positive wire from the small terminal. Use a jumper from the large lug with battery voltage to the small positive terminal. If the solenoid clicks and the other large lug has voltage, you have a problem with a fuse, the disconnect switch or wiring to the solenoid. If still no voltage at the other large lug, the solenoid is bad. Brett

Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Sounds like the house batteries are dead, or at least not getting charged. When shore power or generator power your converter or charger, all appears well. My suggestion is to check wiring and any breaker/fuse between the converter or charger and your house battery bank. Make sure all connections are clean and TIGHT. With a digital voltmeter (a necessity and they start under $20 at Sears, Radio Shack, etc) check voltage at the house battery bank. Of course, if the batteries have been totally discharged for a long time they may be toast. Voltage should be 12.2- 12.7 with converter or charger OFF (no shore power or generator) and 13.2-14.2 with converter or charger ON. To check the batteries, they need to be fully charged (by your onboard converter or charger OR by a portable charger. Once fully charged, any place that sells batteries can load test them for you. Brett

Have you checked your owners manual? Many that are towable 4 wheels down have a short section on recreational towing with a step by step procedure.