wolfe10

miturn1, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. There is nothing special about RV dash HVAC's other than perhaps longer lines if a DP. Please tell us what RV you have-- we don't know if you have an older coach with R12 or R134A, gas or diesel. new or 30 years old.

The gas jet is the brass part from which the gas exits and goes into the burner tube. Follow the gas line from solenoid valve to find it. Haven't looked, but there have to be some U-tubes of this. Hasn't changed in the decades I have been annually doing the burner area tune-up. Again, before spending much time on that rusted burner tube (slits no longer clearly defined), just replace it. Andy RV parts house should have one in stock. If the refrigerator performs properly on 120 VAC, it IS worth fixing the propane part of it. If the cooling unit is bad (doesn't work on either source of heat, don't waste your time/money.

Absolutely could be a bad thermocouple. BUT (big BUT) if the flame is too small because of clogged jet, low propane pressure or damaged burner tube, a good thermocouple will not function properly and if it does, BTU's may still be too low for good refrigerator performance. Plus cleaning the jet is free. Cost of burner tube and labor involved is lower AND it IS BAD.

From your pictures, the burner tube is pretty badly rusted. They are not expensive. Did you also clean the gas jet (just remove and soak in alcohol)? Doesn't take much to clog it up.

This part is important: "When I turn on the ignition switch the battery voltage drops from 13.65 to about 10.4 while the starter is trying to engage." Do you have a boost switch to allow house batteries to aid chassis batteries? If so, what happens when using boost? If not, try jumping from a known good battery to the chassis battery and also to the starter large lug directly. A bad battery will cause your symptoms, as will poor connections on either the positive or ground side of the current flow.

Exactly how far into the "start process" does it get: Dash lights up as normal when key turned to first notch. Key to start position results in: nothing, a click, tries to turn over but doesn't Have you measured voltage at the battery and then again at the starter when someone is trying to start it?

While a shop vac MAY remove enough rust to get the unit going again, it is very little more work to remove the burner (one screw) and verify that it is clean and that the slots are not eroded.

Very likely the burner area tune-up will fix it. May just be rust in the burner tube. May just be carbon on the ignitor/thermal sensor, etc.

2108 would have been manufactured the 21st week of 2008. So, well past 10 years old.

Tell us why you think you need new springs. Read through the FMCA tire programs-- they will give you a lot of information on your choices: https://www.fmca.com/rv-tires-discounts One of the links is to dealers who work with the program: https://www.michelintruck.com/tools/dealer-locator/ Same information is available for Continental and Hankook tires as well as Michelin.

Have you done the "burner area tune-up"? That addresses the vast majority of issues with refrigerator operating on propane. No parts and no special tools required.

HeatherRourke, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Suspect 100% of advice here or anywhere else is that you MUST replace 10+ year old tires. Same advice from all tire manufacturers.

Ya, a poster child for how to hurt your tires-- all weight on one instead of both, full footprint not supported.........

Yup, on page 73 (Section 6, page 9) of that document it states that the house batteries are automatically charged by the alternator with the engine running. Same as virtually all motorhomes.

kriscaughey, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. So, the alternator IS charging the chassis batteries but not the house batteries? If so, you need to check your battery isolator-- may be diode-based or solenoid based. Follow the large gauge wire from the alternator B+ terminal to find the battery isolator.

LindaLyles1, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. What year/how many miles on your coach? What tire pressure are you using/what is that PSI based on?

Sounds like the previous owner had the roof coated. So, first order of business is to find out what it is-- either from previous owner or from a tech who does roof coatings.

I ASSUME it means that it wanders. First step is to weight it and set tire pressures to tire manufacturer's specs. Individual wheel position weights best (use heavier wheel position on each axle to determine proper minimum PSI for all tires on that axle. Check steering components for wear/play. Takes about 2 minutes. With engine off, have someone turn the steering wheel back and forth while you look under the coach. Start at the steering box input shaft all the way to the right front wheel checking for any play. Verify front end CASTER is toward high end of spec. Verify you have some TOE-IN.

patrickwood, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. If your air system dumps before leveling or is air leveling, yes, you could have a dump solenoid hanging open.

njlwa, Welcome back to the FMCA Forum. Please tell us what RV you have and how completing the FMCA University will help you with it. Thanks.

Have you checked for engine codes?

"YES, DEAR"! Yes, the "dears" are always right.

murphski1949, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Please walk us through the questions and we can help with answer (after asking you question that may be easier to understand). Here are standard questions for most smart inverter/chargers-- order may be different than yours: Battery bank size in amp-hrs @ 12 VDC. Battery technology (wet cell, AGM, or gel) Ambient temperature (unless remote temperature probe is fit) Power save/power share to allow you to reduce the amps of 120 VAC used for battery charging if on limited shore power (like plugged into a house 15 amp outlet). Let us know what questions you have.

And, what helps the "DW so much with her cooking" helps YOU so much with your eating! Well worth it.

Welcome to the FMCA Forum. GREAT idea-- a training class in power management that easy for everyone to understand.