wayne77590

My system manual states to hold the stop button until the green light blinks. This will activate the fuel pump, then puts the start. Once you have it running and shut it down as others have indicated, starting by just pushing the start button seems to work fine. Only when it hasn't been run for a time to use the stop as a fuel pump activator. (But then that is my manual) Onan 6k

I carry a soldering iron with me, but I'll still wait until I get back home. It's not wobbling now and if I screw somthing up I'd like to be where I can put it in the shop and not worry about it. Also, at the house I have a 1200 watt soldering iron. It will fix radiators. Problem is the tip is most likely to big. Worse case scenario is I'm out a few beers and pay for a new mirror support/system. Thanks all.

Thanks for all the good information. We made the 274 mile trip with the shims and tape to hold the shims in place. All is well. No wobble. I'll keep my eye on it for the rest of the trip and if it starts to wobble - gorilla tape is on the horizon. Thanks.

Texas is EZ Tag. Only debited when used. Populate the EZ Tag with $40 and leave it there forever. As you use it tolls will be deducted. When it gets down to around $15 it will populate to $40 with the CC card or bank account selected when registering. It sh\ure would be nice if there was one toll system throughout the U.S. eh?

I'm sure not average. 2008 other MH with 55k on it is 10-11k miles a year. I guess that happens when you live on the SW Coast and travel East one year and West the next and back and fourth. Better to run them motors than to let them sit.

Different states, different rules and regulations. My state has Class C CDL. No Class X available. Thank goodness for reciprocal agrrements.

Thanks Bill.

The class C CDL is for hazmat also.

Thanks Carl and Bill. I believe the shims are going to keep it from vibrating (wobbling) and that should be enough to not damage the pivot point. I will try some of the suggestions but not the heat ones. I'm leery that my inexperience would set the MH on fire. LOL. My next trip down the road is about 275 miles and I'll keep an eye on it. I'll have time at the next sto to try some of the suggestions.

Thank you all for the good suggestions. All one needs is "time" to do some of those things, or lack of on-hand equipment. So, today I purchased some items and one was the shims one finds in the windows and door frames department of a hardware store. I wedged them in there, marked the spot, used my trusty utility tool on my belt cut, carved and fitted the shims under both sides of the mirror frame and support arm. Wrapped it with extreme tape (good stuff) and it does not wobble. I'll keep my eye on it going down the road and when we get back home I'll have it worked on or replaced. Thanks for all the information and if we get stopped somewhere that I can use the info, I'll give it a try. I posted on a different forum and the suggestions were about the same, as my reply is the same, hee hee. (Thank you cut and paste)

Something I have read, but not tried is to take a socket, doesn't matter what type as long as it is close to the size, tap it on the nut with a hammer and remove the nut. It may be that the nut and socket will have to be thrown away and a new nut put on. Like I said, I have not tried it but it was on one of the "tire" sites. On thinking: if you can get an adjustable wrench onto the nut (straight away) and close it, then use a long screwdriver to try and turn the nut. I'm assuming the nut is at least 3/4" or more and a crescent wrench would go straight on, tighten down, then on the hadle hole place a tool to assist in turning. Any other type of wrench that would fit straight on could be use if it is a tight fit.

I have the Velvac 714881 mirror and the driver side mirror is wobbling on the shaft that goes into the support. For some reason I cannot loosen or tighten the set screw. Someone could have lock-tighted. I'm afraid to put more pressure than normal for fear of breaking the pot metal that surrounds it. The set screw goes into a half moon washer that pushes against the pivot. Loosening it would allow the mirror to rotate. The positioning of the mirror is okay but I am worried about the wobble going down the highway. It is at least an 1/8 of an inch or more play. I cannot lift it upward. I tried shimming it with different substances, washers, etc. but I cannot get a substance around the support arm and the upper mirror and if I did the mirror shell is plastic and may crack. My last resort is Gorilla Tape down the back side of the mirror and around the support arm to keep it from damaging itself ( if it is damaging). That should keep some pressure on it until I can get somewhere that can replace/fix it. Darn mirror cost $350+. Any suggestions.

When I first received my plates I used tie-tie wraps through the hole of the plate and around the ladder support on the back. You can use the front supports or the back supports if you go up on the roof a lot. Those tie-ties lasted a long time then I purchased the Kiley Mold brackets. For the front, I purchased some stick on suction cups from Hobby Lobby and the front mold is on the inside of the windshield, lower right hand side in front of the passenger. It does not interfere with viewing.

Rich, doesn't it depend if you are using a current meter or an electron meter? One is calibrated to detect positive to negative flow and the other is from negative to positive flow. The latter being corrrect. Hee hee!

My 2008 MH had a 30 inch digital ready TV. it looked like the old hump back TV's of yesteryear, and it weighed 117 pounds. I replaced it with a 36 inch LED that weighs 40 pounds. Now I can eat more. I personally believe that the new technolgy is worth the change, but one thing to remember is that most of the newer technological advancements in viewing entertainment do not provide the RCA Audio outputs, just COAX, Digital Optical, HDMI (W/RAC (Return Audio Channel). Many of the BOMB's in RV's are rigged for RCA Audio and a digital to analog converter will be necessary to have surround sound, or external speakers. I wonder what BOMB's are in the newer RV's.

You could add another converter box for the rear tv. (??) Wish I were there to help Brett, but I'm in Petaluma CA with 67˚ temperatures right now Had a heat wave today as it got up to 76 or 78˚

I guess the real answer is that every manufacturer, and even models withing MFG's can be different so it is best to read the manual. If a manual is not on hand, call them. If they are out of business try and find someone with a manual if you don't have one.

I have waited until engine gets to about 75-80 degrees before going to high idle. Is there a specific temperature one should wait for before going to high idle?

Hmm! I was taught differently. Typically I'm on cruise control coming to a hill. I'll press on the accelerator until I reach the throttle cruising speed and I take cruise control off. Never moving my foot on the accelerator and never increasing or decreasing throttle I let the RV do the work. It will automatically down shift keeping about 2000-2500 RPM and therefore keeping the temperature down. Yes, it slows down to about 45 mph and on a really steep one, 35 mph, but the temp stays below 210. Been there done that on the Branson hill area. They are pretty steep.

My personal opinion is that it is more safe to have a direct line to the Brake Buddy. Consider if plugged into the Cigarette Lighter and an overload occurs the fuse is going to blow and no Brake Buddy. Like I said, just thinking out loud.

I have a 6 Gal - 150 psi compressor at the S&B. IT works fine for those 4-6 pounds needed. The pressure will drop pretty fast because the volume is not there in the 6 gal tank but I found if you just keep the inflator on the stem it will equalize and build back up to 110 psi. The other way I'll do it is to let the 6 Gal reach 150 psi then shock the tire and if the compressor kicks on I release the inflator and wait for it to build up again. Hey, I'm retired so I have the time. The built in compressor on my coach fills the onboard tanks to 125 psi. I have had no problem inflating my tires to the 110 psi level. I carry a 50 foot air hose with quick connect chucks. I purchase on of the air inflators with the guage attached and the end clips and locks on the stem so I don't have to keep hand pressure on it. The guage is accurate and I still check with a digital gauge I have. Both read the same. My TST TPMS reads 4-5 pounds under what my other 3 gauges all reading the same 110 psi. I just live with that and compensate with the setup of the TPMS. I have been told that the TPMS is more accurate but I don't feel that way when 3 other gauges all read the same.

Kaelalynn, I have used the on-board compressor built into the MH. It is 125 psi and will inflate the tires about 2-3 pounds every 30 seconds or so. I'm with the other's that the extension on the tire is most likely the problem. I found it slightly difficult to inflate the tires but I used a dual trucker tire inflator so it was push and pull that made it easier. This year I went to the flow through TST TPMS but before I put them on, and since I was purchasing new tires, I ordered and had installed the Dually Valve valve stems. What a difference. Now they are all push to inflate and no pulling. Well worth the financial drain. Good luck and happy trails.

Brett, I'm in Southern Cal at Port Hueneme and it is 8:20 p.m. and 67 degrees. Traffic is horrible though. Sorry Rick, I'm of no help either.

If it is good enough for them it is good enough for me. I have done that 25 mph downgrade and was happy to be doing it.

Thanks all for the information and keep us updated, please.