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wildebill308

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Everything posted by wildebill308

  1. No problem with shocks or wheel balance, Just lots of rough roads. That and there weren't much in the way of threads left on the screws (I am talking wood screws). I will probably fab some aluminum plates with nutplates when I get home. I thought it might have screws with some kind of nut on the back. I tryed to tighten them but they were striped and woulden't tighten. Did I mention they were just cheap wood screws, to hold the heavy mirrors. Bill
  2. Why is the mirror vibrating so bad I can't see behind me? All the screws are striped and the threads are rusted off. Yes I said screws. Who would use just wood screws to mount a major component like the rearview mirror? Ok I know I am a little critical because I come from an aerospace background and can't imagine some of the things I have seen in RV construction. So for a temporary repair I put some larger screws screws back in till I get home (out back of Zion today) where I will do a more permanent and more robust repair. If your mirrors are vibrating you probably have a similar problem. Bill
  3. Welcome to the forum. I towed using a tow dolly all over New England and never saw or heard of any rules about not using a dolly. Bill
  4. Yes I have some experience at this, old gasket will stick to the bottom of the AC unit and if not removed may cause a leak path. The gluing I mentioned is if someone cut a gasket to install it, not what I would recommend. Bill
  5. I don't understand much either. I was trying to link to the discussion on DP front end alignment. Bill
  6. One thing I forgot to mention is to check the bottom of the AC to make shure it is clean with no old gasket stuck to it. Bill
  7. All that I have dealt with about 5 now all were one piece. It isn't that hard to pull the AC as you will want to clean the roof where the old gasket was. I used a couple pieces of 4X4 to set the AC on to keep from damaging the roof (makes it easier to pick up latter). I think you could cut a gasket and glue the ends back together but it is easy enough to just remove the unit to take the risk of not geting a good seal. Bill
  8. I don't know what happened to the link I put in my previous post but here it is again. I think any competent truck alignment place could fix it. As I said before you have to set ride height to do an alignment. Bill
  9. Welcome to the forum. I am shure someone from that area will chime in with a favorite place. I would look at one of the big truck dealers and see what they say. You might want to follow this thread as it deals with front end alignment. To do a proper alignment they have to adjust ride height. Bill
  10. Well I have about $500.00 on my Pilot card and I say that makes me qualified to park there if I want to. Interesting thing, This has been the trip with four first time events. First time to have a mechanical problem, first time to use Coach Net, First time to drive after dark, First time to spend the night in a Pilot. Trust me it would not have been in anyone's best interest to have disturbed me whining about their self imposed rules. I ran the generator and had the bedroom slide out. Bill
  11. Well thank you. Now time for more meds. Bill
  12. I would just try to hit the middle of the tube. You can center punch a starting point and start with a smaller drill then step it up. Be careful to drill straight and don't tap to deep. Bill
  13. I don't think trying to drill through the mounting flange is going to work. I would drill it before the flange. Go look at the link I posted and scroll through the instructions. Bill
  14. I am running a Banks IQ and economind diesel tuner. I like the desplay as I have a digital and bar graph to show EGT temp. Hear is a link to the section on how to install the pyrometer probe. http://assets.bankspower.com/manuals/590/96420-Cummins_ClassA-v5-web.pdf Bill
  15. The probe should be before the turbo. A good place is where the tubes come together, you will get more accurate results. Best practice is to remove the turbo to catch any shavings so they don't go through the turbo. Bill
  16. The overheating is driven when you are trying to accelerate under load even WOT and you can't accelerate or maintain speed. The old term for this is "lugging the engine" If you can't accelerate in a gear or maintain speed you need to reduce the load. You can do this by slowing down and or gearing down till you can accelerate or maintain speed. Having good boost and EGT gages will help you know what is going on. Your EGT temps will climb very quickly much quicker than water temperature. Gearing down will also increase your RPM at a given road speed. Be aware what your max RPM is so you don't go over it. I have been geting lots of experience last few days on I-15.Today we moved from Brigam City to Moab. Got off I-15 south of Spanish Fork onto 89 then 6 / 191 to I-70 then 191 to Moab. Amazing senarey and you will get a lot of experience driving hills. Bill
  17. Hopefully it is something that can be fixed easily and you can get on your way. Bill
  18. I run at 65-66 as my coach doesn't shift into 6th till 65. I am not complaining I have been geting right at 9mpg. Probably a little less on the last tank as I have been up to West Yellowstone and down I-15 to Brigham City. My CR-V is geting about 32-34 even under tough conditions in the National Parks. Bill
  19. It doesn't matter what you buy you will have maintence cost. You could buy a newer one and have more problems. Like I said buy it and go camping. Bill
  20. Welcome to the forum. Brett is right best place to get the facts is Cummins. The temp could vary based on when it was made. Please add your coach to your signature so you can get better answers in the future. Bill
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