kaypsmith

I didn't add anything earlier, but since it has been mentioned, my exhaust turns almost straight down and causes dust on a dirt road. Had my buddy at the sheet metal shop make a stainless slightly curved plate, then mounted about 4 inches below the exhaust to deflect, it helped the dust about 50 percent.

If I am going on an uncharted route "to me", I print out a map from mapquest, and also from google maps. I have the Magellan 7720 on the dash and plug in the destination, then check against the printed routes, if there is too much variation, I then change to another mode on the gps "there are four different modes", when I find the one that I like best, I will use that one. Only time disappointed was the first trip out, I had chosen fastest time, "boy was that a mistake", poor Toby, that was my Yorkie sidemate of those days, he was as scared as I was, we went down dirt roads, back allies, and as Andy Griffeth said in the football story "I DON'T WHAT ALL". Toby was so glad to see mama when we got to where she met us, he wouldn't come to me for two days. Happier trails to all, Kay

I don't know how many you need, but the ebay price for the entire fixtures is probably less than just lenses will cost. The link that you provided is for led, and if your 09 is original equipment, they are probably halogen. Bulb replacement alone is nearly the cost of the led fixture, and the led will use much less current than the halogen, meaning longer battery charge life. Just my 2 cents worth, and a thought that you might consider.

Another reason for closing the drain valve added to my list. Thanks Joe!

Rich, I have no problem remembering where the tool was left, but the DW, being helpful, moves it and then doesn't know what it was that she moved. LOL Kay

A clogged vent pipe can cause the symptoms that you describe. A climb to the roof might be in order, if you have more one than stack, determine which is to the gray tank, open the gray valve insert hose down the pipe and dw or someone to watch for drainage. Dirt/mud daubers, wasp, and other varments can build nest and cause these symptoms. Also a large amount of Dawn dishwashing detergent down the sink with hot water will help remove grease buildup in the system. And lint buildup from the washer could possibly be the culprit, there is a gadget on the market called the claw, inserted at the drain end might dislodge the culprit. I know that most leave their gray water open when camped with full hookup, but I keep my valve closed, then drain daily when on full hookup just for this very reason. Hope there is a simple solution for you. PS, if you use a snake from the discharge end, be prepared to get wet.

I would not recommend using "Formica" over plastic, or pvc, only as a replacement for the panels if the substrate is acceptable. But pvc over pcv, or plastic over plastic. If the material is pvc, the pvc glue will work very well, as it actually fuses the material together, (same as welding).

There is several other tire manufacturers that are good choices, if saving a little over Michelin is a must. I have used Sumitomo, and Kumho, and Goodyear with success. As stated earlier by Herman, don't put your life and the life of your loved ones at risk for a few bucks.

On a previous post, KIA Soul with manual transmission was a great option. I have an automatic, so have to use a tow dolly, but if you haven't driven the car, a test drive will give a look for another option. The Soul is the most surprising little SUV when driving it.

Do you know what the substate "the material behind", the cracked plastic outer shell, is made of? There are many alternatives to replacing it, such as plastic laminate, "Formica is a brand", or if you are not a diy'er, there are many companies that can give you many ideas. One that comes to mind is Rebath, or other companies that do bathtub and shower walls. Look at the box stores, Lowes, Homedepot, etc., at the shower assemblies that they offer. Measure the existing and have measurements handy while looking. Also if it is pvc, the cement made for pvc actually dissolves the material and will fuse pvc together, making it very workable for repairs. Test the material with some of the cement in an area that is concealed, by cleaning with solvent, and cut a small piece of pvc pipe and try just to see if the material is workable, if so, you can be creative making repairs. Good luck, and welcome to the forum, Kay

I think, the filter. Mine cost $300.00, but takes less than 10 minutes to change.

IMHO, the better the air intake, and the faster the exhaust, the better the performance. If the valve cover is off for valve adjustment, takes very little extra time to adjust 24 than 12. I still love my old 6V92 Detroit with only 6 valves, but I have owned all three over the years, with very good service out of all. Maintenance is the life of any, and no abuse to the engine, as Brett said the engine will outlive most motorhomes.

Mike, you may want to consider a charge wire from your motorhome to your toad, or you can run 12 volts from the motorhome to an auxiliary cigarette lighter plug, which can be laid into the toad, or use a battery pack with lighter plug, and recharge when not in use.

Herman, if it will be exposed to the outside, black rtv sealant, can be obtained at most autopart stores will work very well. Use black, as it is the only color that is not affected by ultraviolent rays. Bet you have never seen a power company wire outside any other color than black, this is the reason. Happy motoring, Kay

If the Itasca versus the gasser, angle of the tow bar is different, it can cause a difference in the towing stability. Check with your tow bar maker for the maximum height difference between the toad and coach. If it towed well behind the gasser and not now, a simple correction may solve your problem. Good luck, and welcome to the forum, Kay

Thanks for the info Ray. These are some of the inhouse kept secrets to keep us depending on the manufacturers, so their pocketbooks can swell.

Rich, in my case, there was no leak. The compressor was just weak, and would not pump enough to bring the gauges up, when I added Freon the gauges would climb and cool would happen for a short while. And as you said, stranger things happen.

Rich, had a similar problem several years ago. When I replaced the compressor, that problem went away.

Thanks Brett for responding to this one. I have been using motorhomes for nearly 30 years, and have never known anything about disconnecting house batteries while on shore power. Since the lights, even the camper style fridge, and water heater depend on 12 volts. With the batteries disconnected, none of these and in some cases other devices would not work, in addition to the battery converter not being able to charge the batteries.

Thanks Brett for responding to this one. I have been using motorhomes for nearly 30 years, and have never known anything about disconnecting house batteries needing to be disconnected while on shore power. Since the lights, even the camper style fridge, and water heater depend on 12 volts. With the batteries disconnected, none of these and in some cases other devices would not work, in addition to the battery converter not being able to charge the batteries.

I agree with dd69, AGM is the way I would go also. Although I use 4 gel cells, only because I have a source for them. Not having to add water and no fumes is a bonus.

I hardly ever add chemicals to the holding tanks, sometimes my wife adds a little, not even the recommended amount on the package. As Brett said a good venturi on the stack is the best place to start. Keeping the tanks reasonably clean, ie., back washing them on a regular basis. Also while camped, even on full sewer hookup, I keep my tank valves closed, then release them daily, black tank first, then with that valve open, I then release the gray water, letting the gray backflow into the black tank. Remember they are holding tanks, not septic. I had a fellow RV'er next to me in a campground that allowed the tank valves to be left open. He had about eight people with him, and the black tank retained too many solids, he spent the largest part of one of those precious days unplugging the mess. But if you think any special brand smells better than others, that would be the choice that I would go with. Happy camping, Kay

Just one little tidbit added, I change steer axle tires every three years for safety sake, I move the three year old steers to the tag, and sell the now six year old tag tires to a local trucking company. The six year old tires by then have no weather cracks, and tread wear is very minimal. I get about $100.00 per tire for these two tires back towards the purchase of the new tires.

Tag axel dump is mainly used if you need better traction, such as iced condition or going in and out of some driveways and the like. Dumping the tag for turnings corners, some think is necessary to help save the life or the tag tires, but I and many others don't think it necessary. Your leveling system dump will handle any necessary dumping for leveling purposes on most coaches with hydraulic levelers. And if you use computerized air leveling, the system should level all bags. Another two cents.

How about clear and use rgb led's, that way you can dial whatever color you like for any occasion. Just a personal opinion, but I don't think red will be a problem as long as you are not moving on any highway.