kaypsmith

It only takes one loose screw, and it doesn't have to be too loose, great news that you took on the project yourself and was probably successful. By the way, that screw probably was not loose when it left the factory, especially since it occurred a good while after leaving. As I stated earlier, heating and cooling of electrical components actually cause these things to happen, a good idea to check at least yearly, I do it every six months.

Where is the dump valve located on your coach????? If yours works like this one, http://vi.raptor.ebaydesc.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemDescV4&item=161744710017&category=184905&pm=1&ds=0&t=1537541336000&ver=0, you can simply plumb around it. You just won't have a rapid dump system on that axel.

I looked up your system, and it seems as though your model uses a dual purpose ride height/ air dump type valve, and in that case, just plugging the valve would not be a good idea, it could although be replaced with a simple ride height valve which may be easier to locate locally. If you plug your style there will be no way to raise the coach for moving purposes. If you do replace the ride height valve, be sure to follow Richards advice because when the valve is disconnected the sudden release of air will cause the coach to fall rapidly which may cause injury or death. If you need to move the coach before replacement, then if it only has a slight leak, you may want to rev the engine a little bit allowing the increased air flow from the pump to try to overcome the leak. Last year, I had a similar situation, only the air bag itself was the leaker, I drove the coach back home (308 miles) with that leak, only had to shift transmission to neutral and rev the engine slightly while stopped for traffic lights, while traveling at normal speeds, the pump kept up just fine. Some coaches use a single dump valve that is located either inside a bay, or sometimes in the engine bay, these type lets the air release from the air spring system without crawling under the coach.

Amen, and electronics have been my livelihood for the past 34+ years. They are great once all the bugs have been worked out.

What coach do you have? Where is the dump valve located? We are only guessing at this point, so very hard to give good answers. I suppose that you need to move the coach before the valve and mechanic arrive.

Typically I would expect pretty much the same as the coolant temperature. Some but not all cool through the radiator, but cooling is not the only reason, you want the transmission temperature to rise to operating temperature as quickly as possible so that it will work correctly.

Nice work Richard! Those switching relays do work well, nice thing is, you can use as many momentary switches as you may like to control them. This is the same system that is used in many industrial installations for emergency shutoff purposes.

Glad to hear that you are calling upon a qualified electrician. The generator test can now put to rest the power company, and shore power plug and cord. I would start at the ATS now and go forward into the wiring in the breaker panel. So far, have all the brownouts been on the L2 circuit as indicated above? If so that will indicate a probable 240 volt circuit breaker going bad if there is one, if no double handle (that will have two handles locked together), then you will have two separate single handle breakers, probable 50 amps each, I have found sometimes that these guys will have burnt looking contacts where they clamp to the bus bar, this situation will cause brownouts because it is not able to carry sufficient current, I added this suggestion for passing along to the electrician. Hope that you are getting closer to a solution. I did forget to mention also that a contact may be failing in the ATS, but since brownouts still occurred on the generator, it is less likely because a different set of contacts are used while on generator than on shore power, but the neutral is still common on generator and shore power at the ATS. One more thing for an electrician to do is to be sure and tighten the lugs within each breaker, any one can be loose, as well as being certain that the one feeding the monitor system making good contact.

I wonder to what extent the brownout is, does your Precision circuit monitor tell that? A brownout is a form of the power going low, it can show up as voltage should be between 110 and 125 volts, or simply the amperage is too low, not carrying enough amperage for a short period. These conditions rarely will cause a breaker to trip, but will show up as an AC (alternating current) light bulb not being as bright as normal. Several things can contribute to this happening including the power company having issues to a something as simple as a neutral within the coach not being tight enough within a circuit panel, or even a lug not being tight within the ATS (auto transfer switch), or even a faulty transfer switch not holding a good latched condition. Since this is happening on both line 1 and 2, my first concern would be a loose ground within the coach somewhere. Have you tried running the generator for 8 or more hours to see if the brownouts occur during that period of time? And of course there may be a problem with your monitoring system. Over the years I have used an analog monitoring system that uses a paper tape with a sweep pen that records the date and time and actually shows the voltage on both circuits at any given time. Of course newer technology uses digital components and records these happenings over a period of time. Hope you find the culprit soon, and remember that the inside coach lights are 12 volt DC, not 120 AC, so to watch for brownouts, use an old fashioned 60 watt incandescent bulb in a lamp base plugged into an AC outlet within the coach. Hope this brief post will help in understanding what a brownout is.

We could tell how happy a motorcyclerider was by counting the bugs on their teeth!

The branded name is Premium, the condenser is actually Toshiba, a trusted name in the mini-split market. I ordered off of ebay for $489.00 with free shipping, when I ordered 15 foot supply lines which worked great, the condenser is pre charged and was slightly overfilled. I did the uninstall of the old system and the installation of the new. I did call a local hvac dealer and paid them $150.00 to come out to evacuate the evaporator and lines and release the refrigerant from the condenser and levelized the refrigerant. The unit is also a heatpump which works very well here in the south because it does heat very well if outside temp is 40% or more.

295 is 20 mm wider than 275, about 3/4 inches, the second number is in percentage to width, so 75% of 295mm width versus 80% of 275mm which pretty much equals out in circumference and or diameter. Dual spacing will a little less and should taken into consideration.

No problem with venting, it is the old AC bay, the entire door is stainless steel mesh just like when it was new, the old 24 volt fan pulled air through the condenser coil which was mounted on the door, then blew downwards on the pavement below. The fan was an 18 inch standard fan. I mounted the unit 9 inches from the back wall allowing the new unit to be able to pull through that hole in the floor as well as having at least 10 inches clearance on either side if the unit and another 9 inches clearance across the top. The condenser fan blows the hot air far enough past the coach to keep the hot air from being inhaled back through the unit. Notice the white PVC pipe to the left of the condenser, that is the evaporator drain, I used a 3/4" hose bibb style fitting directly below the floor of the bay, allowing me to attach a regular water hose while parked to carry the drain-off almost anywhere downhill away from the campsite. If you recall, there was a post awhile back trying to figure a way to take the run-off away, that's where I got the idea to make use of this idea, LOL. I wanted to use mini-splits when I first converted, but no vender would sell me the units back then for fear that there may be leaks because of vibration going down the road. I used flare seals to help prevent this from happening, and there have several others that used this system and have logged upwards of 50K on at least two of those. So here I am, another guinea pig, and as I stated in the first post, I wanted to test some before announcing this project. Also as stated this unit is an energy sipper, startup draws 6.9 amps, with the unit blowing maximum in 94% outside, 4.2 amps, and at idle in early morning, outside temp 79%, just under 1 amp. With inverter technology, the condenser never turns off, it simply slows down, then as the thermostat calls for more cooling, the unit speeds up at a slow pace all the way to wide open which in turn stops the need for pulling a large load starting the unit at any given moment, by the way, I still use an old modified wave inverter 3K, and it runs fine on that, meaning I can actually cool while driving without running the generator. One other note, I was prepared to add a baffle/diverter on the mesh door to divert air flow, but the mesh is already designed for that purpose and with test results already in, I don't believe that will become necessary.

Thought I would share my latest mod to the coach. When I purchased the bus back in 2009, the bus air did not work and that was no big deal because I have a generator large enough to run two roof units which are pretty comfortable except while traveling in 95+ degree daylight. So last winter I started a project of adding a mini-split unit to the coach. I first finally removed the old condenser unit, just behind the drivers seat and underneath the bus, this gave plenty room for the new condenser. I went with a 12,000 btu unit which uses inverter technology and is super quiet, a real energy sipper. I installed the inside evaporator inside (of course) above the window just behind the driver seat, this puts the air directly on my wife who sits in the co-pilot seat, and the biggest complainer about being too warm while traveling. I designed the unit to be run without the rear air on, but with the front rooftop running at the same time. Well to my surprise and with a couple of trips behind us in some very hot days, so far we have not needed to run the roof air while traveling at all, and the coach is staying very comfortable without either roof units so far this year. And one other point, the drain is just behind the left front tire, leaving no drain from the roof when the rooftops are not running.

You may be done with the post, but I only stated what California DMV is currently posting. I don't know how old your information is but laws are subject to change from time to time. My son in-law is a retired deputy sheriff, and his son my grandson is currently a deputy in our county, neither of them really know the actual law at any given time. The purpose of this forum is to make anyone who wants to know about a current issue get familiar with the circumstances for what they are inquiring. Most of us feel that the correct answers should be given and if not others can correct them, this is all that I am doing is correcting your misstatement regarding 3000# maximum is the law. All states are not the same and all inquiring have the right to know the correct answer to their question. Have a great day!

https://www.dmv.ca.gov/portal/dmv/?1dmy&urile=wcm:path:/dmv_content_en/dmv/pubs/dl648/dl648pt12 Trailer Brakes_ In California, brakes are required on any trailer coach or camp trailer having a gross weight of 1500 lbs. or more. Usually the braking capacity on tow vehicles is good; however, it may not be good enough to safely stop the several hundred to several thousand additional pounds that your trailer weighs. Most conventional and fifth-wheel trailers have electric brakes, activated by a controller in the tow vehicle. The controller automatically coordinates the tow vehicle and trailer braking so the two systems work together when the brake pedal is applied. The controller can also be helpful in stabilizing a trailer that sways because of bad road conditions. Manually applying the trailer brakes by using the hand lever on the controller will stabilize a trailer that is likely to sway. Folding camp trailers and boat trailers are usually fitted with surge brake systems which operate separately from the tow vehicle's brakes. Surge brakes are applied by a mechanism attached to the receiver/ball connection. As the tow vehicle slows, the forward motion of the trailer compresses the mechanism which in turn applies the trailer brakes. Motorcycle trailers do not need brakes unless the weight exceeds 1500 pounds gross. If you install brakes on your motorcycle trailer, be sure the brakes do not brake harder than the motorcycle or the motorcycle may flip backwards over the trailer when the brakes are applied. The brakes must always be properly adjusted. Maybe you should re-read the laws concerning trailers and motorcycle trailers in California, the link provided above is from the California DMV, you can do your own search or follow the link above, it states motorcycle trailers do not need brakes unless gross weight exceeds 1500#. I'm not trying to argumentative, only pointing out that different states have different rules concerning these type of situations. If you live in California, you should know the law, but it is hard to contradict the rules that are stated in your own states DMV publications regarding these circumstances. You may never be stopped or checked, but in the event of an accident you should know that your insurance carrier may refuse to pay a claim if you are not in compliance with the laws in the state that you are operating within. Good luck, when in doubt, check it out.

not under 3000 lbs The statement (under 3000) is not true in all states. New York and North Carolina is actually under 1000#, California, Nevada, and Idaho, are under 1500#, Mississippi is under 2000#, most of the others is under 3000#, while still others are actually higher. One needs to know the laws for all states that you are going to travel through and obey them because there is no reciprocal agreement between states concerning the braking laws. Here is the best list as of this date. http://www.brakebuddy.com/towing-laws.html

The 120 V ac sure needs to be completely isolated from chassis ground for several reasons including just getting a tingle to becoming lethal if a person touches that metal skin on the side of the coach. Also LED lights and 12 volt dc devices can misbehave. Even the generator should not be bonded to chassis, it should be mounted in rubber with the ground strap bonded to the transfer switch and the ac circuit should have an isolated ground bus to and through the transfer switch. Richard, I realize that you already know this, but added for the reason of making others reading the post aware. Good luck finding the problem.

This is an odd situation, downloads are usually higher because the provider normally throttles the upload speed.

I am wondering, when you set meter to AC, do you see any voltage, if so how much?

As Carl and others have stated, put a tag (trail) axel under it, there is no comparison to rides in even the same brands. IMHO for what it is worth.

When you use leveling blocks under the tires to help carry the load, it will lesson some of the movement of the coach that naturally occurs. The coach actually feels more stable when the load is lessoned on the jacks. Just one of the reasons that many of us use leveling blocks, it also takes some of the load off the jacks causing them to last longer with fewer repairs necessary over time.

I went to J.C. Penny for my last one, pricey but they order to fit any size.

That's great, WE might patent it, LOL. Here is a 10 foot in NJ, has trailer and electric motor, can always sell unused items. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Jon-Boat-10-Foot-Discovery-Explorer-Trailer-Prowler-Electric-Motor/264361449817?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160811114145%26meid%3Da4895764d3584805a1efac57a6de5ef3%26pid%3D100667%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D8%26sd%3D264361449817%26itm%3D264361449817&_trksid=p2045573.c100667.m2042

Looks great!