kaypsmith

Sometimes the dtv receiver to will default to a different type of antenna (satellite dish) after several weeks/months inactivity. If this happens it will show the 775 code. To correct, one must go through the setup menu, then to dish pointing and make sure the receiver is set correctly. If you do not have the install guide for your dish, best to call the maker for the correct settings, but with a unit as new as yours, you should have the setup instructions.

I'm trying to change from traditional (ham turkey and the other crud) to PRIME RIB, but keep getting shot down.

Nothing personal is meant, but my statement on color was not taught in school and many people have never heard of this. My association with both commercial and amateur radio is what made me aware of this. Many of us used long wire antenna and were put up using whatever rope was available, after 3 to 4 years the rope would fall to pieces (Patsy Cline), after learning about black I have since always used black rope, some of my antennas are still in place after 20 years with black rope. I have searched and have been successful in finding black tarps as well as a multitude of other things over the years. Ray, your statement concerning pot planes brought back memories of living in Florida it the 80's, I was traveling a highway near High Springs Fl., when a strange voice starting telling me to pull over and stop, I looked in the mirror and didn't see anything, then suddenly the voice was much louder and I stopped immediately, a plane dropped down on the highway came to a stop on the shoulder, 5 guys dressed in black jumped out of the plane with military style weapons running. That night on the news was a story about a pot field being raided that day.

I know this sounds redundant to many on this subject, but because of new readers coming on board daily, I will restate this again. Black is the only color that is UV proof naturally, therefore in this case a black tarp outdoors will outlast any other color many times.

I'm seeing many Cracker Barrel's in Tennessee with assigned parking spaces with EV charging stations, serves two purposes, reserves parking space as well as charges your EV.

As stated much earlier in this thread, the charging system that one can plug into a 120 volt outlet will only produce enough charge to carry the EV about 30 to 40 miles overnight. So if you use the 50 amp service to get a better charge rate, where will you plug the RV into? Yes it is feasible but who will pay for the electricity then?

Maybe some technical mind could figure how to use regenerative braking as a means to charge the EV while being towed behind the motorhome to charge the batteries in the EV while the RV is stopping and or coasting downhill, then it might become practical. Otherwise unless you are only short journeys in your toad each day, then I agree with RayIn. I have a neighbor who owns three EV's that he and his wife use for going back and forth to work daily and he loves them. The guy is very green minded and explained to me that he has a special deal with Alabama Power which gives a lowered per kilowatt power bill for charging these cars between 9 pm and 6 am each night. I believe that there is places for EV's but at the present they are not practical for using as a toad unless as stated above, you are not going to place a lot of miles on it while RV'ing. Hope yours works out well for you, and check with your power company for discounts for charging your Mustang. LOL

Is the fridge on the GFCI circuit that is tripping in this coach? A GFCI circuit is looking for an imbalanced amperage load between hot and common, it the fridge is the problem it will remain running, although not on AC, if a non technical person is trying to find the cause of a GFCI circuit blowing, he/she might not realize this.

Not knowing what type of refrigerator you have, but if you have an RV style fridge may give some clue. When running an RV (absorption type) most commonly they will remain on LP gas while running the generator, but when going to AC power sometimes will cause a GFCI to trip. So, check the fridge while the GFCI is tripped to make sure that its AC wiring is not on that GFCI circuit. Remember if it is an absorption type, the fridge will still work just not on AC if it is set to automatic changeover.

Sounds like a bad motor winding, if this is the case you could have the motor rewound if you know of a place that does that type of work. If not a replacement motor.

Any good vinyl graphics sign maker can photograph the tag then recreate it in vinyl which can be placed anywhere you would like it. This method will preserve the original to be displayed inside or just kept in a safe place for future use.

The system may use an automatic reset circuit breaker which could be going bad, or the circuit may actually be overloaded at startup. If you have a way to disengage any or all of the devices, you could disengage one device at a time to see if the problem goes away. If it does, then move that device to a circuit of its own, just make sure that the circuit is not overfused for that device. Or may just be a faulty relay not kicking in when the accessories are activated. Personally it were my coach, I would move the automatic level system to a separate circuit anyway since it would be my most suspicious culprit.

Have you tried Biellings tire? Phone: (386) 752-2120 If they don't have in stock, they will probably get them for you, also do mechanic work.

Many galleys have the gfi near the sink.

Brett, this is a very interesting topic and glad that you introduced it. For information purposes, I picked up my bus/coach in 2009 from Evoloution coach in White Haven Pennsylvania. This bus conversion factory is a steam engine factory from before the civil war and was used as such for building steam engines during the civil war. John Cherry, owner has preserved this historic site and of course does bus conversions in the old factory. He is very proud of the antiquity and loves to show it off if any are interested and in that area. Thanks for giving me an opportunity to bring these facts to life. I hope not too far off topic, as I have enjoyed the debate and the opportunity to watch the videos that I never knew existed.

When not connected to shore power, does the overhead lights in the coach come on? The only thing that can be different with battery power and shore power connected is that there may be no current coming from the batteries. Even the salesman switch should not allow any current flow to house 12volt. Maybe house battery disconnect or bad house batteries.

Here is an article that might help understand why thieves go after catalytic converters. https://www.azom.com/article.aspx?ArticleID=8094 These metals are more expensive than gold!

I know that M&G is air activated, but is AF1? If it is, then you should be good to go, if electric activated, then not without modification.

There should an ignition solenoid, possibly a fuse has blown between the keyswitch and that solenoid, or a bad keyswitch or a bad solenoid causing nothing to light up on the dash. You stated that when he engaged the starter by hand the motor cranked (turned over) but would not start, if the keyswitch is not lighting the dash and transmission lights, the fuel solenoid is possibly not opening and with no fuel it will not start, or you may have a fuse blown to the ECM, another reason for not starting. These are some starting points to check for it not starting, any good diesel service center can check these items in case you can't. As mentioned above, the chassis battery/batteries need to be charged completely and load tested before trying to start again. Good luck getting it going!

I bet whoever left them behind told the CG owner the they were used to start the fire, LOL.

Have you gone through the ATS and retightened all the terminals? This causes more phantom problems like you described than one can imagine. Be sure all power coming into the coach including the generator and inverter are off before doing this procedure. Many times I have actually removed the wires one at a time and added no-lox to the terminals for extra security. Welcome to the forum!

I have found to my surprise that not a lot of people working at diesel oriented mechanic shops do not have a clue what a CAC is, including the service writer. Therefore it is no surprise that one might get a bad diagnosis on whether it is clean or not.

In drawers, those old Styrofoam peanuts will help keep upright many things. My coach was designed with drawers for canned goods, we use about 1/3 drawer with those peanuts, then add the canned goods, when one can is removed, the peanuts just respreads their selves. On the upper cabinets we use those under shelf wire baskets from the dollar stores when possible, and the under rug no-slip that Richard described.

Consider using two lithium 12 volt batteries instead of one, this way you will take almost much room and will greatly increase your staying power. Only difference in wiring is the two 12 volts will be in parallel as opposed to in series like the two 6 volts.

I would start by flushing the tank, sediment at the bottom of the tank is a common cause for your symptom, also make sure that the flue (heat exhaust) has not been clogged by a varmints nest. After that you will need to check the burner unit to make sure the flame is or can be adjusted correctly.