kaypsmith

What year and model is your coach? Most of the lights (unless someone has added it) are 12 volt, if this is true then your inverter has nothing to do with it, unless the house batteries are to weak to run the inverter, and if that is the case house batteries should be load tested and replaced if they are weak. Be sure to look for a bonding issue with the coach AC neutral and ground, if they are bonded this, can cause gfci issues, and blinking 12 V lights. Within the inverter bonding issues can cause gfci issues if the gfci is only tripping when the inverter is producing AC. I have run MSW inverters for years with no problems unless some appliance was added that just cannot run on MSW, ie if the coach came with an MSW inverter and no AC appliance has been added, there should not be a problem. Of course if the inverter has developed a problem within itself then all sorts of other issues may a result. I would try testing the leads that I mentioned above, and if you do not know how, show my responses to a qualified electrician. A simple VOM (multi function meter) is all that is required to test those items.

Coopers are great tires, Toyos are great also. I'm in the camp that Michelins are over rated these days, at least the ones that I have owned.

Good looking car and job. Please remember that the Soul is a lighter car and prone for hydroplaning. Believe me I know for sure. I loved the car and comfort was my favorite steering choice.

Ray, I also have to limit salt, I found a drop of lemon juice from a fresh lemon is a great alternative.

cnweeds, I have not made the conversion that you asked about, but after reviewing the manual Microsoft Word - 052548-001r11 Paramount Installation Manual (carefreeofcolorado.com), it looks pretty simple. I like the fact that it sits on top of the roof instead of the sidewall. You have sparked my curiosity enough to start investigation for my own use. Thanks for posting.

Positive voltage on copper wire caused corrosion on the copper, negative voltage does not. Sure glad the OP found the problem, and has learned a little about electricity from this post.

Here are some specs on the MD Sprinter with 188 HP engine. https://www.cars.com/research/mercedes_benz-sprinter_2500/specs/

Welcome to the forum! Are the running lights on an individual switch or are they tied to the parking lights on your unit? If tied to the parking lights, do they work correctly?

Without air ride and a monocoque chassis design, I would not use ceramic tile, any give and the tile will crack. There are some products with either vinyl or rubber base that looks just like ceramic tile that will work well. I have granite floor in my coach and no cracks, but I have the correct chassis. Check with Ernie!

The NUT in the first point of reference doesn't have a clue. The writer in the second is absolutely correct, he is speaking in reference to the DC circuit, it's a shame that he even mentioned AC except he does not tell of grounding the AC to the frame of the RV, and does not point out not to do so. If the AC ground is bonded to ground and or neutral, then if you should touch the frame or anything that connects to the chassis, and you are on ground (or heaven forbid) standing in a puddle of water, your lights will go off. The RV AC circuit is bonded at the campground main source of electrical supply. Yes Herman, I am being negative in hopes that someone doesn't accidently do this and have a SHOCKING experience. I do remember some autos and lots of agricultural machines (tractors and the like) using positive grounds. Many over the road tractors in years gone by used 24 volts to start the big engines, positive from the secondary battery was to vehicle chassis and negative from primary battery was set to chassis and used a 24 volt generator back in those days. Many of the mechanics in those complained of being shocked by 24 volts while lying on the damp ground making repairs. Studebaker had many backwards ideas, but they were 20 years more advanced in looks and engineering than most, that's why they moved south of the border in 1963, LOL.🤤 The only car car that I would buy and restore is a 61-63 GT Hawk, IMHO the prettiest auto ever built.

Yes and most lighting in every coach that I know of is 12 Volt. And PLEASE do not ever tie the ground or neutral from an AC power source to the chassis of an RV, it could lead to a shocking experience.

I second this post.

If nothing else works, try 70% rubbing alcohol with very soft clean cloth. Start out in a small area to make sure it works ok.

There are current control devices in a lot of the newer coaches which I call current shedders, these devices actually will turn power off to other devices in order to stay within current limits to make sure that you never overdraw and cause a breaker to blow. The AC units that are currently installed on RV's use much more power to start up than to run continously. I have a mini-split unit in my coach which uses inverter technology, these units never stop running unless power is removed, this is the newest wave of refrigeration and I believe will become available to nearly all AC units in the future. Since it takes more power to start an AC than to run for an hour, the inverter tech just changes cycles (60) to more cycles to run faster, therefore it is sipping power at slow speed but not cooling very much, as the cycles are increased the cooling is increased and using a very minimal amount of current while cooling greater. Soft start technology is used in industrial applications with very large motors that run all day and require a huge amount of electricity to start. They are beneficial for industry to use because it keeps the power meter from seeing large spikes at a given time, and which the industry is actually penalized for allowing to happen. They have their place, but I don't believe would be cost effective for your situation.

Duh!!!!!!! If the AC is rated maximum draw 12 amps, and you are using a true 50 amp service and no other devices are on at the time, then L1 will show 12 amps, and L2 will also read 12 amps because both units are 120 volts each and L1 is 120 volts on a seperate half a 240 volt circuit. If both units are turned on simultaneously on a 30 amp service and no other loads, then you will read 24 amps on that circuit. Each AC is supposed to be wired on seperate breakers on a 30 amp service. That is why it has been stated that both units can be run on a 30 amp service if no other high draw devices are being run at the same time. That true 50 amp service is actually 100 amps @ 120 volts, or 50 @ 240 volts.

Best solution to the problem that I have seen, is to use a 2000 watt guiet inverter generator to run the second unit in the heat of the day if that second one must be run at same time as other appliances.

Eagle43, if you can take a picture of the battery and read the voltage and amp hours, someone can reccomend a source pretty easily.

Thank you Herman for taking it to the proper persons!

One issue that like in Spartan over FTL, is Spartan normally has a shorter turn radius than most others. The Spartan chassis is noted to be the most preferred in this country for fire engines, and consequently are designed for shorter turns. Just my opinion, yes I have owned both in the past.

Are you talking about air chucks? Or quick disconnect fittings for attaching air hoses? Usually an air chuck is what pushes onto to schrader valve to air up a tire.

For those that think Dodge may be inferior, Daimler Corp., (Mercedes Benz) as most people know it, merged with Chrysler in 1995 and they operated that way until 2007. Those were some of the best built during Chrysler history in my opinion. Fiat bought the company out in late 2007 and have been pretty good also.

I've ran Hankook's for years with no problems in either ride, steering, swaying or any other problems that I didn't cause.

Is it 240 HP or 340 HP? That would be a determining factor for me, I do believe that is340 is correct, but if 240, then it would only be good in Florida.

I agree Bill, here is an ad for the correct size in Continental. https://simpletire.com/paid?v=1&tireSize=295-80r22.5&mpn=5120370000&brand=continental&productLine=hsr2-sa&itemId=40029&utm_source=google&utm_medium=organic&utm_campaign=shopping_feed&utm_content=surfaces_across_google&region_id=4000049999&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=G_Shopping_Region_04&utm_content=Profit-Bucket_Commercial_LowProfit_Tier-D_RAD&utm_term=&utm_creative=383435609666&gclid=CjwKCAjw3pWDBhB3EiwAV1c5rNRhhtq8I5qTURvUxLEhKxotakrV8U581ooOki6aoRGny61gK2J1vRoC8zMQAvD_BwE So someone is incorrect.

Your speedometer will show that you are going faster than you really are with 75 instead of 80 also. Be sure the load rating is correct also. You may want to check 0n 305-75/22.5 for a more comparable circumference, just be sure that there is enough space between the duals to avoid kissing.