kaypsmith

I brought the Swan industries web site up, they describe it to be a three way valve. Therefore it will have multiple pipes connected to it, I tried to find a diagram, but have been unsuccessful so far, although the company says it was designed for HR, Monaco and others. This valve comes with a brass check valve. https://swanindustries.com/products/copy-of-rmv336akp-manual-water-heater-bypass-kit Being a three way valve, one position directs the water into the tank, the other position directs the cold water across to the hot water pipe away from the tank, the check valve inserted into the tank prevents the water from hot side entering back towards the HW tank. This check valve may be malfunctioning, or installed incorrectly, the arrow must be installed pointing away from the tank.

Since this is a three way valve, I am suspecting that it is plumbed incorrectly, that is the reason for wanting to know if it has ever worked correctly, or has someone else moved some piping.

Since you first acquired the RV, has it ever worked correctly?

Check out this video, hope that it is helpful.

How long do you have to wait before the water will flow hot again? I would agree that the winter bypass valves probably are not set correctly.

If you badly scuffed both front and rear and there is only two tires involved, if front and rear are the same size, and all are only three to four years old. Then I would move the left front to the rear, then put the two new tires on the front. this way all drive axel tires should be the same age and should be replaced in two to three more years.

Thank you FMCA for having and enforcing the rules. I don't do Facebook because of the political jargon. Thank you Herman for being YOU!

Agreed!

hallen78 Please PM me your shipping address, I will gladly get and send you the FMCA atlas. Kay

Doug, good luck tracing this out, the manual isn't very informative as to what wires go to where. The two orange that have constant voltage should be wired to the porch and handle/stepwell. Check orange #7 for voltage with the coach keyswitch on, it hot then, it should be the step.

I lean strongly towards bad battery bank, but also need to know the total amp draw on the inverter when it is called upon to produce 120 volts. Has anything been added to the 120 volt system just before the problem started to occur? A 2000 watt inverter only produces about 16.6 amps when the batteries are fully charged, and will seriously discharge even a good battery bank in a very short time. A load of over 50% (8.8 amps) is about all that one can be called upon to last for any small time if the battery bank is too small. Look at the label inside the residential fridge to determine maximum amp draw, this will be at startup of the compressor and about 50% of that for running amps. As mentioned by others, what is the size of the batteries and how many of them to determine how long they should last. Also, when was the last time that the battery terminals was cleaned?

Yes many people have had the same problem. I did a search on this topic and found nothing on the forum, but several suggestions have been made here. I'm sure many will chime in to help. Meanwhile, welcome to the forum.

I wouldn't leave on a trip without an inline checkvalve, just like Herman described. I actually have one also installed at the point of entry of my shorewater, this helps in keeping the system pressurized in order to prevent the pump from coming on needlessly.

I have never seen a roof vent for a fresh water tank, there is an overflow for fresh water, but it usually is through the floor of the water compartment. You don't fill the grey or black tank with a bypass valve. The roof vent is for the black and grey tanks. Bypass valve shouldn't be a mystery, it is for bypassing the freshwater system in the RV, in order to fill the freshwater tank, when the tank is full, it should returned to the normal flow through the system.

Possibly some water was pooled either on the slide or the slide awning. The weight from filling the water tank may have caused the RV to lean just enough to cause the pooled water to move. As I said just a possibility.

When was the last time you purged the front air tank?

Sorry, I thought that I had sent you a PM, just checked and re sent to you.

Agreed, the picture is not an inverter/charger, it's a diode based battery isolator, has nothing to do with inverting/charging. It's sole purpose is to make sure that the user does not deplete the chassis battery while current is being pulled from the house batteries, works equally well to keep the house batteries are not depleted by chassis operation. The house batteries do have a thermal type circuit breaker which has gone bad.

Any wiring schematics whether posted in the coach or in the book that came with the coach. Pictures of all the wiring connections with a small description of their location, just in case you get a bad repairman that moves wires because of stupidity or loss of reasoning. Spare tire is a good idea, it can be placed in a storage bay and other articles can be placed inside to minimize storage loss. The copies of paperwork can be stored on a website or on webdrive to minimize folder size.

Ray, that's not his inverter, it's the battery isolator, diode based, one wire to alternator, and one to each battery bank for charging while alternator is charging. Only one battery is new, system has been load tested. The negative wire is attached to a disconnect switch on the left end of the bank positive directly with a small wire going to something else. Wires are correct.

Doug, that large wire to the right should be going to the chassis battery harness. The Solenoid is most likely the battery combiner, with all wiring attached correctly, when someone pushes the combiner switch, you should hear that solenoid latch, and both chassis and house batteries should all be combined.

Here is how to test a diode based isolator. https://www.google.com/search?q=how+to+test+a+diode+based+isolator&oq=how+to+test+a+diode+based+isolator&aqs=chrome..69i57j33i160.19018j0j15&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8#kpvalbx=_YqIAYfDLCeevqtsP2oyn0AI56

The inverter will work on which ever type battery you have or choose, assuming that is a 12 volt system. The inverter will either be a MSW (modified syne wave) or (pure syne wave). PSW for what is worth is a better choice than MSW because PSW will run most any appliance, while MSW is more pickey. Lithium batteries are great but are still very expensive.

You will need to start at the house batteries. Make sure that these batteries are wired correctly, with 3 12 volt batteries, you must have a jumper between each battery on both positive and negative post, every post requires one, positive to positive, negative. Make sure that the negative does indeed connect to a good chassis ground. Also that the positive does indeed connect to the house fuse circuit. Now if all this is correct then follow the positive lead away from the battery bank. On most coaches, the first place to go is to a circuit breaker or inline fuse. You can use a needle or strait pin to push a hole through the insulation, making sure not to short this to a ground. With the pin before the fuse/circuitbreaker, use your multimeter attach and use the black lead attached a good ground, and the red lead with the meter set to DC voltage, do this first on the battery side of the fuse, then to the house side of the fuse. If 12 volt is present before fuse, then the circuit away from battery is good, go to the house side, if 12 volt is not there, then the fuse is bad, if fuse is good then follow the large wire to the next item in line and test the same way until you find the failing component. It does sound that the isolator is ok, but you can test it by checking all three red cables leaving the isolator, all three should check to contain 12 volts with the coach running. The battery combiner appears to be the black solenoid to the left of the isolator and just below it, that should make a sound when someone pushes the combiner switch.

That red heat sink looking device with the two red and one black wires attached is your isolator. That device is a diode based isolator, and if you reversed the leads on the house batteries, you probable have fried those diodes on the house side. Try to get the name and model number off of that device and someone can probably help find a replacement. Do you know where the 12 volt fuses are located in the coach? Most of your coaches vintage have a set of fuses that look like the newer version of automotive fuses, and often have two larger amperage fuses side by side that are designed to blow in the event of reversed polarity. Most older coaches have a circuit breaker/ fuse panel that is built together, if that style there will be a lift off panel that covers the 12 volt fuses. Be sure to check for this.