kaypsmith

"There is another reason why big trucks are banned on the northern section of the Parkway. Overpasses have low clearances, especially the older arch bridges seen in Union County, which could mean trouble for high trucks." The above is a quote from the link that you provided, is probably the most valid reason of all, also the excess weight does break down a roadway faster than the lighter traffic, as well the fact the roadway may have not been built to withstand the extra weight for conservation purposes, in other words, if concrete, may only be 8 inches as opposed to 14, and such concerns.

I also use the horse stall mats, when purchasing them I look for thickest ones for stacking purposes, they work well both to keep the tire and ground surface separated, and an added bonus help in the leveling process. I still am using some as old as ten years.

I agree with you Herman, that the newer truck drivers are a different breed, most of them can hardly hold them in the road, much less give all clear signals as they used to do, mostly because of texting on their telephones. In earlier days most of them had CB radios and they talked to each other, a mike is not nearly as distracting as a cell phone where you must dial a number, blue tooth has helped with dialing the phone but not texting. What I would like to see is a mandate that text will not work on any vehicle within four feet of the steering wheel, and with today's technology that will be an easy accomplishment. A camera on the rear of a trailer for backing purposes doesn't work well because watching the camera one will have the tendency to turn the steering wheel in the wrong direction, it is only good for making sure that you don't back into an unwanted obstacle. So in a sense, it can help eliminate a spotter at the rear of the coach, if the driver can learn coordination between the camera and the mirrors.

Well, I guess my post goes unread, YES I HAVE USED ONE, sorry my anglish aint very gud. But since I know how to adjust my mirrors, I won't spend the extra money again. Although the system that I used was wireless with a repeater placed at the back of the coach, but not in the motor compartment. as far as a camera system goes, it worked flawlessly.

Herman, Carl was speaking in the past because of the short circuitry. As in 45 years in the past and short circuited.

Yes a camera on the back of the trailer does help in monitoring what is behind you. Backing up the trailer works OK to make sure that you don't back too far, but not very helpful for positioning the trailer.

A wifi extender should work fine, be sure to check the onstar rates, and allotted time. On star does not work like a lot of people think it does, they just have contract with several cell companies, depends on which tower is closest that they have a contract with. Of course if you can contact an onstar operator, then the wifi should work also. http://auto.howstuffworks.com/onstar2.htm

RedandSilver, I almost said something about that in the above, I used to do the same thing. Simply keep on typing and do not use return when you think you are at the end of line, the post will automatically wrap for you, with the beginning of the first word that does not fit, and will only advance one line instead of two. I think the proper term is pagination.

The double stick tape can be cut using a sharp knife long enough to cut between the bumper and the plaque, Walmart and other box stores sells a product named Goof-Off (maybe Goop-Off) that will not harm the paint but when applied by directions will make easy removal of the remaining residue.

There are cameras available to be used on the back of the trailer, some cheap, some not so cheap. If you are going to use a wireless camera, there are wireless repeaters available that can be mounted at the rear of the motorhome to retransmit the signal on to the front of the coach, if you do not use one of these repeaters, my experience is the signal from the camera is too weak to depend on it for use like you are wanting. One other thought about cameras is that you can also add one on each side at the rear of the coach mounted at or near the roof line, looking directly at the rear of the trailer, aimed to monitor each side activity. My personal thought is also if your mirrors on the coach are not adjusted properly so that you can see far enough behind the trailer, they should be corrected. You can also use a wired camera setup, but that will require some extensive wiring which can be done but really not necessary with wireless technology. Red and Silver, the name reminds me of my old days when I worked with an International dealer as a mechanic, there were two gasoline engines available back then, they were both inline 6 cylinders, red, 165 hp, silver 190 hp. Just memories of course.

That is perfect for dry camping,

The start solenoid should be located near the starter itself, large battery wire going to it and a large one going to the starter unless it is made onto the starter in which case only one large battery wire, also one sometimes two smaller wires, one of these goes to the next control between the key switch, this control should be near the key switch. This control may be checking for all systems including the neutral switch to report all systems are ready before allowing the start solenoid to activate.

In that case, is there a transmission electronic reset? Not likely that the neutral switch has anything to do with the power seats, but will certainly prevent the start solenoid from engaging, and since the neutral light is not lighting. Also the key switch may be showing wear, since other items mysteriously started back to working.

Is the gear selector push button, or slide selector?

Tim, your chassis batteries are the power supply. This will be either a fuse, or relay, or a switch, or a non grounding issue somewhere. Could be as simple as poor ground to the transmission, since the neutral light is not showing up, but I wouldn't think that would be the case since all the other items are not working. I found a bad ground to the ECM on my coach causing havoc in the past. Also, you said that it won't start, does this mean it will crank over with the starter, or does the starter refuse to engage?

Duhh! And Carl thought that you were a HOG farmer. My favorite is Merlot, just in case we should park next to each other.

Well, I do not believe the OP is actually degrading the insurance company to that degree, he is advising others to not make the same mistake that he did, by neglecting to make sure that his insurer has the ability to keep him notified by means other than snail mail. I use Allstate, and they have an app that I have downloaded onto my semi smart phone that will keep me informed if I am smart enough to check it when the app will and does notify me. rggarrot, WELCOME to the forum.

Brett, I get lots of those ???? looks when I tell anyone that the bus has a two stroke diesel, and as you know, it is.

Oneway, if you plan to replace the unit yourself, the job is relatively easy. While shopping for a replacement, I would normally suggest going from 13,500 to 15,000, but in your case since your RV is a 30 amp hookup, I would stay with a 13,500 to keep in sync with your present setup. Be sure to keep in mind that there is ducted and non-ducted units on the market, if your controls are overhead attached to the unit, that is non-ducted, and I would suggest replacing the inside control and vent at the same time, some are sold with and some without, be sure to keep this in mind. If ducted, "thermostat on wall", then replace with a ducted unit. Other post's about how to get it on the roof and safety precautions are all good pointers. Keep us posted, and PM me if I can be any help.

housegouse We pronounce that (hoos-cow) in Alabama.

My reply to Thor would be, "SURE HOPE THAT i DON'T HAVE AN AQUA COOL SYSTEM ALSO, GOING TO HAVE THE SAME WINDSHIELD AND INSULATION THIS SUMMER".

Here is a much better test for the AC compressor than the one that the op was using. http://www.hvactrainingsolutions.net/troubleshooting-air-conditioning-compressor-motors-like-pro/ All of the readings are conclusive that the compressor is bad, remember that his ohm meter is calculated in 1K ohms, meaning that 5.0 is 5000 ohms 1.0 is 1000 ohms etc. Sorry that the unit will need replacing, but better than paying out big bucks for a generator that appears OK. Of course we haven't heard back yet about the smoke test. This also proves that testing rather than throwing parts at a problem is far better. Good luck oneway

Bill, when you work around the trucking industry as Joe does, 12X22.5 are much easier to find. I also use 12X22.5 on my coach and I can find them around B'ham pretty easily.

Very nice looking coach, congratulations. Welcome to the forum.

No problem at all, glad to get the old brain taxed every once in a while. In an earlier post I mentioned ohms law 101 and eluded to parallel resisters versus series resistors, what I was referring to is the fact that there are two sets of winding. One being run winding (black), and the start winding being (red). Now both winding's are supposed to be common to common, in other words they are continuous , not a dead short, but with a resistive load (this is what makes electricity actually work) those readings were above ("zero" which is a dead short), they are still continuous but still connected to common, which is good. Now if the two of them are reading a number which is the sum of the two, they are doing what they are supposed to do they are working series. Now when you read start to run, you should be reading a higher number (the sum of the two), but if you read a lower number, this indicates a short between the two windings, not a short to ground but a short to each other, this is not what end result that we want to see. The reason that I added the question mark after the cont comment,was my way of saying yes contnuity is wanted but not dead short, I don't know to high resistance your meter reads continuity. Don't get too far over your head but as I stated earlier I for one appreciate your willingness to learn, as this persistence is what make all of us to be better at whatever we endeavor to do.