rlbarkleyii

We as FMCA members have a right to be pissed about this roll out. By closing discussions FMCA staff is just pouring coal on the fire. I hope they will regroup and open this to all CURRENT members before new members. BTW what is a "coach code"?, Are they talking about our member numbers?

Anyone know where you can get the custom made aluminum plates of old?

First I want to say that I think FMCA should stay the way it is, motor homes only. However I am going to throw a NUKE into this question by talking about something no one feels comfortable talking about. It is understood we need to increase the number of members to improve the benefits to members and insure the continued viability of the association. I don't think we members and local chapters are doing enough. As you might have noticed by my photo, and some of you know me, I am African American. Some might say, what has that go to do with accepting towables? I belong to a Afro-Centric Motor Home club call the US CLUB, (80-100 coaches strong) we have rally's mostly in the north east and south. Of course I also belong to FMCA, I have tried to find a local FMCA chapter in GA that my wife and I would be comfortable in. No such luck. Lazy-Days RV dealer in Tampa FL recognized that minority folks buy motor homes too and have sent the latest motor homes and sales people to the US Club and many other minority club rally's and have sold quite a few units that way. There are manufacturers that appoint and support financially, minority volunteers, owners of new equipment to travel around and mix it up with minority clubs to show new MH's and get sales, and they are getting them. The point here is FMCA and the local chapter's have to be more outgoing and identify groups of people that are not well represented in FMAC and make a concerted effort to go out and recruit them into the chapters and FMCA. I am not by myself in this regard, there are literally thousands of folk who would join FMCA if chapters would show themselves to be friendly. Many of the comments on this subject have indicated that the Rally is not the center point of the younger up and coming members, My opinion is the FMCA local chapter is the real backbone of FMCA and most that join the chapters enjoy the local motorcades, and weekend rally's, freindship and such. So, the fate of FMCA is in the hands of the local chapters, they need to go out and drag in ALL the potential members from all walks of life and all social and economic groups into their chapters to breath fresh life into the FMCA. There is no excuse for a local chapter to not reach out to members at lodge in their area not belonging to a chapter, or potential new members to invite them into their chapter for a "Look See". Recruiting new members has to become a important part of chapter activities, and sometime we need to just be more inclusive to win friends and members for life.

Agree with Vegasmailman, all members need to have a say in this important matter!

Recently had a slider failure, entire HWH system dead. Started checking negative terminals first then positive all OK. Pull the courtesy panel in from of motor pump assembly and started checking fuses. Low and behold one of the fuse holder was burned to a crisp. Unhooked the far end which was the positive terminal to motor and noticed it was HOT after running. Thought I saw some arcing, pulled the motor terminal loose cleaned it, cleaned the terminal to be reattached, and applied electric grease to terminal and re-tightened. Ran motor again, no heat! Replaced burnt fuse holder with thermal circuit breaker. No further problems. Moral of story, a loose connection can cause heat that will draw more amps and fry fuses and holders.

10-4 on the aftermarket Fass or Air Dog pump installed air Dog on my 02' come-along to ease burden of V44 injector pump and maintain adequate pressure during WOT operation. Adjustable pump maintains 10-15 PSI at all times.

Put Remco drive shaft disconnect on Nissan Exterra 12' and have towed it 10K miles. No problems! One word of caution, don't go to Campers World or RV dealers for install, go to a driveshaft specialist. On Nissan and other models driveshaft may have to be cut, welded and balanced on lath, most dealers can.t do it. Drive Shaft King, in Dallas is the "go to guy" , mine was done in Marietta GA, by Drive Shaft Services. Highly Recommend

If Allied is affiliated with Nationwide, I would be concerned about them. I had a terrible experience with Nationwide, to make short, they did not pay a claim for my business, and defied me to sue them. I won't do business with Nationwide ever again.

Well finally figured out the cure for the rear slide. The height adjustment for this slide is a part called a adjustment shoe, there is one on each side of slide. It can be seen from the battery compartment left front, or the other side from under the chassis. The shoe is a 1" tube about 6" long with a horizontal plate welded on the top approx. 2"x4". Attached to the horizontal plate is some sort of plastic material the slide rests on, and slides with minimum friction. the shoe is adjusted up or down via a bolt sticking out of the bottom. In my unit the shoe and the mount that holds it broke away from the frame and required welding back to frame. This was accomplished without removal of the slide. All battery's were removed for safety and access. Attached is image of slide guide.

Recently i discovered that New Jersey vigorously enforces a law that makes it illegal to idle gas or diesel for more than three minutes. The New Jersey State Police particularly enforce idle regulations on the New Jersey Turnpike. A fellow MH owner on a recent trip thru NJ stopped at a rest stop, while waiting for engine to cool, he fell asleep in the drivers seat. Apparently a trooper was timing the idle time from a nearby vantage point After ten minutes the trooper approached the MH, woke the driver and presented him with a $250.00 summons. The driver vigorously protested that he did not purposely idle the MH for more than shutdown cool, at which point the trooper checked the box on the ticket requiring him to also appear in person in a NJ courtroom at a later date. When the MH owner who is home plated in Georgia, called the court and explained that he lived out of state and it would be a financial hardship to return to NJ, the court allowed him to "Plead Guilty" and pay his $250.00 fine by mail. The point here is that approximately 31 states out of 50 have Idle Laws of some kind or other. Check out the states you run in! idling_fact_sheet_1.pdf 2016 State-to-State Idling Guide_ Land Line Magazine.pdf

Like the new Michelin Advantage page on the FMCA site. Like the fact that it gives specific prices for each size in the program on both Michelin and Continental. I am somewhat baffled by the fact that several local retailers here in Georgia offer XRV Michelin's in 235/80R/22.5 in the $530.00-$550.00 range, including taxes, balance & mount. The local prices are all lower that the Advantage Program. As members of FMCA we are be buying in quantity, we should get a better price.

I didn't know they did not work in MD. How did you find out? Hope someone has some info on that!

Purchased Dometic Model 9100 awnings at Campers World in Macon GA, about two years ago to replace OEM one-Step awnings damaged in storm. Campers World did the installation. Recently the awnings seem to bind when rolling up about 3/4 the way up. Sounds like it is the support hardware that is making the noise. Sometime the thermal breaker in the motor will stop the motor for a while until it cools. Also the rear vertical bracket does not return to the same position as the front bracket, it sticks out about half an inch. Anyone have any ideas as to the binding and how to fix it?

Finally fixed the wiper problem, turns out the wiper struts attached to the output shaft of the motor spun 180 degrees on the shaft. Loosened the retaining nut on shaft, repositioned struts to proper park position, re-tightened retainer nut and that fixed it! Thanks to all for your information and help!

My experience differs from Hobart, I have both Good Sam and Coach Net. This summer I had to tow my MH on three occasions from one service center to another and from my home to a third service center. The nearest Service Center was 50 miles away, however I wanted my MH to go to Atlanta area a distance 150 miles from my home. While there were many truck repair and two Freightliner Dealers closer in Macon and Albany, Coach Net agreed to haul my MH to a Allison specialist in Atlanta, no hassle. Before I called CN I called Good Sam and my insurance company, Progressive, they both would only haul the MH to Macon (50 miles) , unless I paid the additional mileage. Found the CN dispatch knew what type of equipment to dispatch, followed up like a mother hen until the job was completed. The tow driver was told by the numbers, how to tow my motor home. Without a word, detached the driveshaft, applied an air hose to the air input on the air dryer, checked to insure air bags were inflated, and brakes released, placed light bar on rear, Smooth trip.

Recently noticed that bedroom slide was rubbing against trim and top of battery compartment door. Examination revealed what I believe is a plastic plate on each side that the slide rests on. The left side plate seemed to be missing. Could not identify or find this part in the Winny parts listing, With one side missing the low side is resting and sliding on the carpet and underlying frame, lowering side by just under 1/2" . Anyone had any experience replacing this spacer ? Does the slide have to be removed in order to repair this part? What is involved in removing the slide to make the repair? Anyone with experience or suggestions please respond. Also if anyone can recommend a qualified RV repair service that is knowledgeable in regard to Winny/HWH slides the info would be appreciated. Preferably in GA but I will travel to get good service. My experience with local RV facilities has not been good.

Took the part number for the "Door Check" indicated in parts listing, checked again with Winny and found out they want $75.00 plus S&H for this part. Haven't decided what to do about it yet. Still hoping to find used part or fabricate. Thanks to all!

Thanks Guy's , I have been off the net and the road for a while. DW was ill and not able to travel, Then Tranny and fuel pump problem, those resolved now, been trying to fix some of the little stuff that can be a pain in the neck. I will check out all your suggestions and post how i make out. Smooth Running to All!

Need to replace the door restraint on my Winnebago Journey 02. Believe this door assembly was used on several models of Winny's over the years. Called Winny and they said they do not make the doors, and could not tell me who did so I could get parts. any one have any idea who might make Winny doors? The part I need serves two purposes, it is wedged between two fiction blocks inside the door and slides to retard the door from swinging wildly open. And it limits the travel of the open door to keep it from hitting mirror. Photo of part attached.

like to see some pictures of the gas shock install?

I recently bought Michelin XRV tires in the same size in Warner Robins, Georgia 235/80/22.5 for $539.00 out the door.

When I had a gasser in the past, a HR with tag axle, (one more set of brakes than you have) I found out that the limited ability of hydraulic brake systems makes hauling anything over 1500 pounds risky. In order to tow safely I bought a tow dolly with brakes which helped greatly.

Changing out the OEM lift pump on my 02 Journey and was shocked to find that the OEM fuel hose on the pressure side of the lift pump was 1/4" Cummins calls for a minimum of 3/8" hose to the Cummins ISB engine with the VP-44 injector pump. I now understand why the carter OEM pumps don't do a good job, having to push a substantial volume of fuel under pressure thru a 1/4" hose. I guess Winnebago saved a couple of bucks reducing the hose size, by the time you need a VP-44 pump the vehicle is out of warranty, of course. This is distinctly Winnebago"s doing, as the chassis delivered from Freightliner does not arrive at Winnebago's factory with the lines to the rear mounted fuel filter water separator. Winnebago installed all the filter/seperator related hoses. If you have a 02 ISB, I would strongly recommend that you install a pressure gauge on the output line from the water separator/filter to the VP-44 injector pump, you must maintain a minimum of 9-10 psi WOT, if not you will be buying a $2000 min. pump very quickly. The VP-44 relies on fuel moving thru it for it's lubrication and cooling. When the pressure drops below 4-5 psi you are wearing out the pump. Most OEM carter pumps barely put out 5-8 at an idle. You also should know that if the lift pump fails, completely, the engine will still start and run. When the lift pump fails, the VP-44 will then draw fuel thru the lift pump and there will be a suction on this line instead of pressure. The Carter lift pump is a diaphragm pump and it will allow the IJ pump to draw fuel thru it even if inoperable. This situation can go on for some time without significant performance issues or before the eventual VP-44 failure from lack of cooling and/or lubrication. Word to the wise: CHECK THE PRESSURE ON THE LINE TO THE VP-44 INJECTOR PUMP!!!!

Changing out the OEM lift pump on my 02 Journey and was shocked to find that the OEM fuel hose on the pressure side of the lift pump was 1/4" Cummins calls for a minimum of 3/8" hose to the Cummins ISB engine with the VP-44 injector pump. I now understand why the Carter OEM pumps don't do a good job, having to push a substantial volume of fuel under pressure thru a 1/4" hose. I guess Winnebago saved a couple of bucks reducing the hose size, by the time you need a VP-44 pump the vehicle is out of warranty, of course. This is distinctly Winnebago"s doing, as the chassis delivered from Freightliner does not arrive at Winnebago's factory with the lines to the rear mounted water separator. Winnebago installed all the separator related hoses. If you have a 02 ISB, I would strongly recommend that you install a pressure gauge on the line from the water separator/filter to the VP-44 injector pump, you must maintain a minimum of 9-10 psi WOT, if not you will be buying a $2000 min. pump very quickly. The VP-44 relies on fuel moving thru it for it's lubrication and cooling. When the pressure drops below 4-5 psi you are wearing out the pump. Most OEM Carter pumps barely put out 5-8 at an idle. You also should know that if the lift pump fails, completely, the engine will still start and run-- most of the time. When the lift pump fails, the VP-44 will then draw fuel thru the lift pump and there will be a suction on this line instead of pressure. The Carter lift pump is a diaphragm pump and it will allow the IJ pump to draw fuel thru it even if inoperable. This situation can go on for some time before eventual VP-44 failure from lack of cooling and/or lubrication. Word to the wise: CHECK THE PRESSURE ON THE LINE TO THE VP-44 INJECTOR PUMP!!!!

Hi Wolfe: I for one would like to know the other method!