huffypuff

Yes I think that is the old trucker way, walk around at every stop and hit it with a stick, If it sounds good your on your way. If I have as much trouble as Jim with mine I believe I will be boxing them and putting them in the rear compartment. This so far gives me more worries when I drive and should leave it alone unless a alarm goes off.

Wow Jim, sounds like my issues are far less than yours. When I check today temperature and pressure on left rear inner tire is stuck at 112 psi and 89 degrees I'm betting that sensor is bad. I haven't driven it in three weeks and it never came down. Well I decided to pull all the sensor, swap bad one for one for toad. Reset unit for reprogram, install booster since I need for the toad later and reprogram after inflating tires with good tire gauge. Once I get the coach working then I have to get the toad ready. I think I have to swap out the sensor for the toad because of factory monitor may have aluminum stems. I'm still waiting for email from tireminder before going ahead with it. An email from tireman9 explained why the temperature raised when stopped since not internal tire temperature. Coming to the rest stop using the brakes caused it to heat up enough for the sensors to pick it up. That really explained what happen there. I also have other things to worry about as if I didn't have enough to do I'm upgrading the TV's. Two high tech smart TV's, one 32' for the bedroom and 40' in the front. Want to get them done before a chapter rally coming on the 25th.

Yes the tire pressure did raise about 5 lbs while driving but the sensors or monitor was reading 5 lbs high when cold. They claim accuracy within 2.7%. That means that at 120 PSI it should be no higher than 123.24 psi or no lower than 116.76 psi. The tire gauges has been tested against factory tire monitor system such as my 2012 Cadillac SRX. On many cars you can bring the tire pressure reading on the dash and even watch it change while driving with a touch on a button. True many don't have temperature readings but that was one of their selling points that temperature increase before a blowout. Why sell something with a feature that don't work? I am disappointed with the performance of the tire minders and think others should be warned that they are not what you may think they are. I'm going to contact the factory and see if they have an answer to my concerns. I will let all know the response.

I attended a tire seminar in Redmond. OR this year and I remember it being stressed to get a tire pressure monitor for the coach and toad. I did so before leaving the reunion and was quite disturbed by the operation of them. These have sensors that screws on the end of the valve stems and transmit to a receiver kept in the coach. I didn't have the toad with me at the time so I only installed the sensors on the coach. Tire are Michelin 275/70R22.5 XZA2 Energy with about 7,000 miles on them and less than a year old. The first thing I noticed is that reading from all the senors on the monitor itself is reading 5 lbs too high. I verified it with two known good tire gauges. The second thing I noticed is the temperature started out normal but didn't raise much while driving. When I stopped at a rest stop in Washington then the temperature raised about 10 degrees in about five minutes. I wonder how in the world are these sensors supposed to get internal tire temperature if it is spinning around on the stem on the outside of the rim? Maybe there should be a seminar on tire monitors so it could be explained what a misfit add on are. Nothing like the tire monitors that comes with the vehicles today. Hopefully for me it's not $410.00 wasted. TireMinder monitor, charger, 10 sensors, booster and 10 extra batteries. http://www.minderresearch.com/tireminder/tireminder-tpms-with-6-sensors-and-a-signal-booster-tmg400c-6/

It what ever what makes you feel better for what refrigerator you want. I don't think scaring someone to convert because the need of some other repair or part is something we should do as the OP asked for a part. I know it took a couple of tries to get the recall to work as it should but it does help with the problem accused by consumer. I supposed that is why the company was being so hardheaded because the consumers demanding recall parts for one not included in the recall as to hold the company hands over the fire. That is why they want only experts to handle any part of the recall including resetting the box. Some good dealers keep the recall kit in stock. My dealer installed it on my coach last spring of 2013 when in for check up for that summers travel. If there is no major problems with my current refrigerator I can not justified replacing it for I use it only a few months out of the year. Of course if I was full timing I would consider it as well as a for other upgrades such as large screen smart TV's

You must be part of Zimmerman and Reed in northern CA who sue just about any consumer products ever made. I believe they chase ambulances also. I feel honor that you joined just to dispute my post. Yes there was over 2,000 RV fires since 1999. That's over 15 years and I bet a few was due to the Norcold. Have a few cause a fire then all fires get blamed on Norcold. Once the fire get going for any reason it can explode any appliance connected to the propane system and feed the fire. I attended classes for absorption refrigerators and the reason Norcold didn't want you to stick your hands into it is you don't know what you are doing. Customers can cause the fire for not knowing what they are doing. There is lot of maintenance to be done by experts as consumers don't have the proper tools.

Desertdeal What bank is your VISA card from?

Let see, upgrading to a residential = 1 Modifying the cavity the old unit comes out. 2 Drivers window taken out and having a forklift to remove old unit and place new unit in coach. 3 Adding an inverter and more batteries to handle the load. 4 Adding auto-start to your generator if batteries run low. Try explaining that to state and federal parks that forbid running generator after 9:00 PM. 5 Another option is to add solar panels. 6 Residential refrigerators are not made to rock and roll, doors fly open and food ends up on floor. 7 Does not add value to your RV as it is market as a used car. 8 Will cost 5k or more. 9 Replacement RV refrigerator are available and total cost is less using at least two power sources. 10 Replacement cooling systems are available for even less cost than whole unit. 11 RV refrigerators NOW have a safety device built in to shut it down if it overheats. 12 Residential refrigerator are also know for fires as an internet search will bring up more residential refrigerator fires than RV refrigerators My refrigerator is working fine and if I have a minor problem with it I don't think replacing it is the best thing to do. I will milk my Norcold for all it's worth and know there is other option than replacing with residential refrigerator. Brett, great idea about checking for recycle parts.

Monaco and Holiday Rambler were still being built to the 2013 model year by Navistar but was brought out. Unfortunately didn't look like the MaxForce engines did very well with all the problems customers had with them. When Allied Specialty Vehicles brought out Navistar their first goal is to get rid of the Roadmaster chassis. They are using the Roadmaster name on a modified Freightliner chassis on the Dynasty and Freightliner on Ambassador so it's not the same. That means that all models has to be redesign to fit the new chassis as a drop on the frame bodies as opposed as the way it was built before. Looks like Fleetwood is part of Allied Specialty Vehicles that was formed in 2010. Maybe that's their plan to get more market shares by hanging well know name brand on an entirely different coach. The only thing that exists of Holiday Rambler and Monaco today is the name.

That makes sense as the Vacationer is a gasser with lower price than Ambassador. The next thing there was the Monaco Dynasty with a $689,000 I guess their flagship. I did stop at the tent and was told a mid luxury model will come out in six months but not sure which brand name.

Unfortunately for you to get to the line at the top inlet to the ice maker, you will have to pull the fridge into the RV for access.

I saw the new Holiday Rambler Ambassador at the Redmond reunion and now there is coverage on it in FMCA magazine as a comeback. When I went to the reunion one of the things I wanted to see is the new HR's to see what improvements were made. I toured a few coaches before I found the HR and Monaco displayed in the back end of the lot. I was dismayed of what I saw and here is why. 1. HR had only two displays, the Vacationer and the Ambassador. 2. The displayed of the Ambassador is like the picture on the front cover of FMCA magazine. The first thing that bother me was the bright glare of the tan paint walking up to the front of it. 3. The next thing that bother me as well as my wife is that HR put the door midway behind the slide. Then there is only one handrail to get you inside the bottom step and your on your own to get the rest of the way up and in. It also takes away from the layout of the coach as that brings on the next point. 4. The mid entrances and the step well takes away from the space from the middle of the coach. HR answered that by eliminating the love-seat. The power room also has much wasted space with too much cabinetry. All that is needed there is a toilet and a sink with just enough cabinet to keep hand towels and toilet supplies. 5. My wife and I always felt that a large window at the head of the bed is a bad idea. Too much light and noise at the top of our heads isn't something we want. A better option is to have smaller windows on the side of the slide with a double shade to block light if needed. These windows would be at eye level and more acceptable if there are windows in that area at all. 6. We like the bathroom in the rear of the coach but there is a layout problem there also. The shower is too small as older style tub like showers of the 80. Move the shower to where the toilet is where there is more space for a larger one. If the sink is moved to the corner there will be more space for cabinetry floor to ceiling across the rest of the back of the coach. Those that demand a washer and dryer can go back there also. Why in the heck would you want it in the bedroom? 7. The placement of the TV in the center of the coach is in a place that would be better utilized as more kitchen space. How about hanging that from the ceiling right behind the driver seat at a slight angle for better viewing from the seating area? 8. The only improvements I see is better TV's and residential refrigerator option. All of the other coaches have it as well as the Retro Winnebago Brave. If you have a older coach, those can be updated as well as the generator auto start if house batteries gets too low. 9. Going through the new Ambassador I found much less of just about everything compared to the Ambassadors before the crash of 2008. Less engine, transmission, chassis, length, tires, towing capacity and generator. There is so many other things if you look at the specs that are less than what it was and I consider this a step down not an improvement of what the Ambassador use to be. One thing that is less that we may all like is starting at $206,000 the price is less. But as it goes we all get what we pay for.

Did you recently buy a coach? When I did I received a credit card from Forest River that I didn't want. They also enrolled me into an local RV club to exclusive campgrounds free for one visit. I cancelled that also as it is something else I won't use.

Tip sorry about the hijack of your question. I didn't know that the RR8R chassis had sway bars and if not can be added to some. I don't have rock and roll except at very low speed over rough roads, Let me (us) know how this upgrade works for you. Brett I saw the display at Redmond also and briefly spoke to someone about it. I know the fan is very strong on my MH as I towed my jeep on a trailer (about 6,500 lbs) up a 10 mile mountain grade in California. The engine temperature barely went over 200 F and transmission 180 F. I wonder if that blade matched the cooling of the old design. I would get it if it work but would like to see an independent review on it. If anyone wants to ask, yes it slowed down to about 45 MPH because the ISC 330 don't have enough oomph.

Well Jack, at least you know what I'm talking about dumping the air straight down when need to. Sorry you don't have that anymore as you and I know that it helps.

Brett, what do you think about their fan blade claim of more HP and fuel economy?

Sounds like the wiring in the steering column. I don't have manuals on F53 chassis but I wonder if it has a clock spring?

Mine has a vent on the unit that blow directed out of the center turning the roof vents off. I think it does a better job than the roof vents as air flow is much higher. You will get more noise. You turn the vent on and off by sliding the panel from one side to the other to expose the holes. See if you have something like that.

I believe some exhaust brake have an orifice on its plate that may cause more than a hiss out the tailpipe under extreme condition. I sometimes hear something similar when I get a heavy downshift with the exhaust brake on.

Most have hydraulic jacks like Wiggins (apples). You mention air leveler option (orange) I'm out of here.

I think we are talking apple and oranges here. I wrote "Works better to feather the brake pedal (key on engine off) hold the dump switch at the same time". What is stopping the air bags from filling back up if there is air pressure in the tanks? Most have hydraulic jack leveling system and air suspension doesn't play nice with it.

Works better to feather the brake pedal (key on engine off) hold the dump switch at the same time. That lets all the air out of the system. Then you level without problems. I see where some level coach and the air suspension will override the level and throw coach to one side.

Jared, gassing is bad if water level is good. Half inch over the plates only, not up to the bottom ring or you can be causing the gassing.

I went to the Interstate similar at Redmond and they state use wet type if access is good and dry cell type when access is bad. You don't want to mix type of batteries whether it be starting or house batteries as it will not charge properly. If you went to one type of battery to another you will have to adjust your charger inverter so you charge at the right rate.

Wow I had warranty work at the same place with no problem. Must be a tough problem.