huffypuff

Where I was parked on D-3 street at Redmond, there is a X where the left front corner goes and a line where the left rear side is not suppose to cross. The rear is not to be pass the wiring run behind the coach. If your coach was in these boundaries you shouldn't have to move it. I wouldn't of and instead would of checked their coach to see if they were parked correctly. There was plenty of room there to park large SUV and have scooters and golf carts too. On a 12 year old coach, window awning straps are known to break on their own when they are under tension. I wouldn't blame anyone unless I'm 100% sure and saw it happen. I was lucky and didn't bump into anyone unfriendly there.

You may need to have an intelitek control panel installed. Why? If your coach is 50 amp and you're plugged into 30 amp or worst 20 amp you will be overloading the source of your power. The power management in the intelitek will switch things off if you go over the rating. Example: When I was at Redmond this week my 50 amp coach was plugged into 30 amp. I was running my front A/C and used the microwave while the A/C was running. Guess what, there isn't enough amps for both on one leg since the frig was on 120 as well as HW heater. So the intelitek turned off the a/c until the microwave was done then turn the a/c back on. Are you sure this isn't what's happening?

I could be wrong but I thought I saw them as a vendor at the Redmond, OR reunion.

Looks like there will be stormy drives to Redmond today and tomorrow. Please be safe and drive careful on these stormy condition. You can blame the storms on me as I shined up my coach for the drive there tomorrow. Mother nature wins another one.

Wow Khuskeysr what a different 6 years make. If you click my pic the one I have is covered with metal and painted to match at the roofline. It attached to the top edge of the slide with a four bolts near the front and rear. http://www.carefreeofcolorado.com/carefree/products?action=product&productid=46&categoryid=30 I found one mis drilled hole on the other side of coach filled with clear silicone. I never saw it till I hand waxed it because it up high near one of the awnings. Must of been like that since new but I will never know.

Are you replacing the whole awning or just the fabric? I had fabric replaced on one slide and one end slides in a channel on the roof and the other attached to the reel thats on the slide. http://www.rvworkshop.com/Slide-out-awning-replacement-fabric link

Most of the older Jeeps you put the transfer case in neutral and the automatic transmission in park. To unlock the steering is one click clockwise with the ignition off. There has been problems with some newer Jeeps as misprogrammed software for transfer case.

I have the power probe kit and I could test end to end with it. Plug into any 12/24 volt power source and with 50+ feet of leads all wires can be checked end to end whatever value it should supply. If the module is good and the cluster is good then I suspect a mouse in hidden area chew wires. http://www.powerprobe.com/webstore/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=205 I almost forgot, it has transmitter and remote for impossible jobs. No shop should be without this kit.

Where are you located? Are you going to the Family reunion in Redmond, OR. We may have a use for a door bin or two and maybe inside bin. My wife likes to pack it tight sometimes but never complain about it.

Shell is now putting Power Service Extreme Diesel in their pumps. If you go anywhere else you can pick up a bottle at WalMart. https://powerservicextremediesel.com/

There is a screen on the inlet and could of calcium up from sitting. Clean that screen and make sure that all valves are close that could allow it to suck air. I left the water purge valve open once and had the same problem.

Make sure it's not the recall box that went out. Very common problem.

What make units are they? Mine has removable panels with a couple of clips you pull on to release from the body. The clips don't slide you just press it away from the body.

OK if the solenoid clicks you now know that the s terminal is getting power and you have some ground. If you can put a test light on the output of the solenoid you should see the test light lit dim possible bad started. If the test light is bright possible bad ground. First go over all connection at starter to be sure even if it's been done before. The process of elimination is key here.

JC the owners manual is fine but short of aftermarket details such as braking and lighting as well as tow bar setup. OP now know the ignition isn't on but one click to unlock the steering wheel. What will run the battery down is acessories that use vehicle power to work such as braking and lighting.

I found that my unit from Vietnam have a web page and was able to contact many that served with me there. 178th Assault Support Helicopter Company (Boxcar) with the double dice 6's logo 1971 - 1972.

Where are you at right now? Is it very hot outside? That will lower performance of a box stuck in a 3 sided wall.

When you find a class A you like have a surveyor check it out for you if not new. We can help you some but there are lots of problems that can be overlooked. http://www.rvsurvey.com/

I just solved another electrical problem that had others stumped by simple following a wiring diagram yesterday. 2004 Ford F-150 pickup HVAC blower motor not working. There were several relays and computers and modules and switches to test. I checked for ground to the blower motor and good. That proves the switch, the resistor as well as the body ground was good. Check for positive power to the blower motor and there was none. Check fuses then relays and found fuses good but relay not working. Found relay was lacking a ground and grounded that terminal and blower motor came on. Look at wire diagram again and found orange wire supplied ground to relay when mode switch is on any selection except off. Replace that module in dash today and problem is solved. How is this relevant? This would be the same way to check problems with starter as I did with the above Nissan. I knew the interlock system wasn't the problem as I got power to the s (start) terminal. That mean that the two relays and it's connection were good. So I can focus on the starter and or connection at the starter. Took two starters to cure it and I hate when that happens but it does. This one was so intermittent that it would start 20 times before it failed. Both starters, go figure.

Almost right, see my signature. The key doesn't have to be on but you need to have a dummy key made to turn the ignition one click to unlock the steering wheel. You won't have to install a charge wire unless the brake system and lights on the toad is used. I used magnetic lights and Roadmaster brake system so I install a charge wire. Been cross country and back with that setup and it followed us like a puppy.

Here is link I found with starter click. http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6490 I seen the post you mention Rich but that wasn't clicking at starter.

The OP need to find out if the clicking is from the starter itself or if the clicking is another relay. Work from the starter back to ignition switch. You will need a wiring diagram for it.

In the process of elimination if the starter clicks it getting power to the solenoid so banging on is worth a try. New don't always mean good. I had a older Nissan in my shop where the starter would only clicks intermittently. New starter came back after a while. Had new batteries installed by customers. I redid all connection and that didn't solve problem. New ground and positive cable didn't fix it. I banged on the starter with no result. Finally replace starter again and no more problem since. You may never know until replacing the starter. My google search shows many Sprinters with no start problems but not starter clicks with no cranking.

When the starter just clicks without cranking it is usually a bad starter. If access to the starter is ok, trying banging on it when it does it again and if it comes to life you found the problem.