jleamont

Sometimes that's not a bad thing, rather it be this way than bad or incorrect information.

Is this the product in question? http://rvinlinesanitizer.com/?page_id=49 Have you contacted the manufacture? Could just be a defective unit or took a shot in shipping which is causing your problems.

That's what you get up here for $50.00 per night TYPICALLY, if you want amenities and location its going to shoot up from there. If the campground offers more than the basics like close to the beach, Large well kept pool, water park or in the heart of the action, hold onto your wallet. Look at Texas as an example, you can get lake waterfront, huge site for $45.00, triple that in eastern PA. That's an exception and Amish owned, they use the campground to drive customers into the tourist traps they own. I believe the'll bus you over to them for free also , Great marketing strategy!

Don't forget the cost over here. Anything nice will set you back $150.00 per night. The Jellystone near us is almost at $200.00 per night.

Richard, the Latching controller had water in it. So upon further investigation the compartment door seal had failed. We just experienced a category 1 hurricane the day before and severe storms the day after. I removed the controller, blew it out with air replaced the door seal and it all works now. I am going to order a replacement pump. It would be hard to travel and depend on it. I’ll probably swap it out and hold onto the original.

Thanks Rich, the motor was so hot it almost burnt my hand. Not sure how reliable it will be moving forward?

Jim, the schematic is a huge help! Thank you!

Kay, it was shut off, water system is empty since the coach is parked between trips. DW found it running on air, based off of its external temperature it had been on most of the day. I’m going to unhook the switch signal and see if it still comes on with all interior switches disconnected, if so it’s got to be the Latching module. Unfortunately the pump has to be destroyed or at least no longer dependable so it will be replaced also.

Carl, I have this pump; https://thesolarstore.com/aquatec-5513-1e11-b636-550-series-pressure-pump-12vdc-p-496.html Herman, what micro switch are you referring to? Richard, thank you.

Ross, I have piloted many tire brands on commercial vehicles, Yokohama being the most recent. I have NO issues in ride quality with any of the following brands, I thought the Yokohama and Continental actually were a better ride than Michelin. If you are stuck on a Michelin product the BF Goodrich line is made by Michelin and was on the FMCA program. Hankook Yokohama Sumitomo Continential BF Goodrich (I put these on our coach 4 years ago) Cooper Roadmaster (a friend has these on his Tiffin, no issues and the ride is good). There is another off brand I carry as a spare, can’t think of the name.

Here’s one I haven’t seen yet. My fresh water pump keeps turning itself on. Of course the tank is empty and I probably need a new pump now, it was so hot you could cook on it! I have no idea how long it was running before my DW found it. I unplugged the pump (Figuring it would happen again), came back an hour later and the water pump light was back on. I’ve checked all switches, no issues observed. Last night I checked on it a few times and it remained off, this morning the light was back on (sure glad the pump is unplugged now). I believe I have a failed latching controller. I am going to unplug each switch input and see if the problem goes away before I begin hanging parts. Thoughts, experiences?

Have you checked the circuit breaker on the generator and as mentioned is it flashing any codes?

Every time I travel up there for work, "would Ya'all please talk slower, I cannot understand you" .

In New England drop the R and replace it with an A , example; Car is pronounced CAAAAA

Another thought. Replace the water pump with the newly designed for more water flow. Here’s an example of the difference. OEM Cummins is the only one making the new version.the old one is the all metal.

What PSI cap and how old is the coolant? I know it was all pulled and cleaned the radiator and CAC but sometimes the old coolant will get reinstalled to save a few dollars. Can you hear the fan? This is a big one, Monaco had problems with the wax valve that controls the fan in those years. I don't recall what the problems were i.e. fan to aggressive or not aggressive enough. I believe it could go either way depending on what position it failed at. What are you using to monitor temperatures? I installed done of these and accurate readouts have made me not look at those old gauges. https://www.scangauge.com/products/scangauge-d/ This is the solution to a failed factory fan control wax valve. http://sourcerv.com/conversion

I responded to the post you created.

Euphoria2me, Welcome to the FMCA Forums! When you say its overheating, do you mean it boils over or just the temp gauge runs high? If just the gauge it could be inaccurate, ours climbs into the red often and when I look at the digital readout it never goes over 190 degrees. How old is the radiator cap and what PSI is it? Have you tried to downshift to raise the RPM's and see if that corrects the concern? Is the cooling fan running on HIGH while this is occurring,? You should be able to hear it roaring.

DOC, I personally would run the way Manholt recommended. Reason being the Atchafalaya Basin Bridge (depending on your coach) could be comfortable or white knuckled. We crossed it in 2013 is a gas coach (no air ride) it wasn't much fun, we bounced all the way across and not in a fun way. Bypassing New Orleans isn't a bad thing either and his route doesn't take you much out of the way at all.

Is the plug on the end of the cord a replacement type or is it molded to the cord? I have seen wires come off many times and cause your issue. Best to diagnose with a volt meter at the transfer switch IF you are comfortable working on high voltage.

Glad to hear you are all fixed up!

YUP, while in Florida...hospitals laying off 1000 employees on the news, why? Too many empty beds. The electronic wait signs were less than 5 minutes in every ER I passed. Sounds pretty busy to me.

I bought the rolled product on here and installed it on my engine hatches since the original product was deteriorating. The product I purchased had adhesive on once side, but I added short screws with fender washers to make sure it stayed in place. https://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/heat-barrier-and-sound-deadening-mats

Are you referring to the dash mounted air pressure gauge? If so that is for the entire air system, not just the air bags. It shouldn't move while driving without stepping on the brake pedal. Does it pass the air brake system test? Here is an example of a standard test; I would perform these steps and report back your findings to help narrow down what system (if any) is at fault. Test Air Leakage Rate (Static check) With a fully-charged air system (typically 120 psi), turn off the engine, chock the wheels, release (push in) the parking brake button (all vehicles) and time the air pressure drop. After the initial pressure drop, the loss rate should be no more than 2 psi in one minute for single vehicles. Test Air Brake System for Leaks With parking brake, (all vehicles) and trailer air supply button (for combination vehicles) released (pushed in), apply firm pressure to the service brake pedal. Watch the air supply gauge and listen for leaks. After the initial pressure drop, the loss rate for single vehicles should be no more than 3 psi in one minute. If the air loss rate exceeds these figures, have the air system repaired before operating. Test Low Pressure Warning Alarm and/or Signal Turn the key to the on position. Rapidly apply and release the service brake pedal to reduce air tank pressure. The low air pressure warning signal must come on before the pressure drops to less than 60 psi in the air tank. If the warning alarm/signal doesn’t work, you could be losing air pressure without knowing it. This could cause the spring brakes to activate suddenly. Only limited braking can be done before the spring brakes come on. Check That the Spring Brakes Come on Automatically. Continue to rapidly apply and release the service brake pedal to further reduce air tank pressure. The parking brake button should pop out when the air pressure falls to the manufacturer’s specification (usually between 20 to 40 psi). This causes the spring brakes to come on.

Technical section; https://community.fmca.com/forum/9-technical/ Photo section; https://community.fmca.com/forum/111-rv-photo-gallery/