jleamont

Most RV's illuminate the brake lights with the exhaust or engine brake on. Its a changeable setting in the Cummins software if its equipped with a Cummins engine. Most trucks, medium and heavy do not illuminate the brake lights with the exhaust or engine brake on. I have read several complaints over the years from consumers utilizing a toad braking system that engages with inertia or via brake lamp illumination. AF1 and M&G both utilize air pressure to engage the toad brakes, not the stop lamp circuit.

After reviewing the brochure it appears its NOT equipped with IFS, or its not mentioned anyway. https://tiffinmotorhomes-rcgarkskyk9ln7qkrx.stackpathdns.com/uploads/model-brochure/AllegroRED-Brochure/Allegro_RED-Brochure-2019.pdf

In the business we call that a “smoke test”. Install a bigger fuse and look for the smoke I don’t recommend that procedure, I’ve seen several vehicles sustain serious damage from that.

Mahdialbassam, Welcome To The FMCA Forums! Sounds like when you engage the engine brake it is applying the toad brakes, and it’s a hard application. I’d call the supplemental brake system manufacturer for advice.

Guys, we are drifting off topic, “Fantasy Tours”. Please keep it on topic. thank you

More information is needed as mentioned. If you are looking for a recommendation, replace it with the same manufacturer that currently resides on the roof. The last thing you would want to have to conquer is pulling new thermostat wires. Most manufacturers you can up grade both the roof unit and the thermostat without changing wiring.

If not the salesman switch you will need to seek out the relay that the switch controls, it’s most likely the culprit. Once located check back in, we can give you instructions on how to test it. they are usually in an electrical compartment, not inside the coach (constant duty solenoid).

Clary, Welcome To the FMCA Forums! Can you attach some photos so we can see what you are looking at?

Oldmarine, as mentioned Bendix makes many different models but most use the same desiccant filter. You are lucky it’s not a Haladex air dryer, Freighliner used those around the same year and they are very expensive! Any idea how old the dryer assembly is? I replace my filter every 2 years and the complete dryer every 4. While air dryers are pretty simple there are other components that wear out and a remanufactured assembly usually is not that expensive. Our coach has a Meritor SS1200, the filter is around $30.00 a complete air dryer is $189.00. Most parts on a RV chassis can be purchased online or in a truck parts store which gives you the ability to shop around.

I saw a Facebook post recently where they unhooked the toad (full size pickup) forgot to engage the transfer case, DW put it in park, it rolled away, bounced off a motorhome and rolled down an embankment and struck a tree. Very sad, glad no one was in its path!

Any chance you can get the part number off of the air dryer? Most have a tag on the side with the make, model and serial of the dryer.

Could you please explain?

Any chance you can squeeze in (2) 6 volt batteries? Most 12V batteries are larger than a 6 volt (physical size). Just thinking outside the box, you might need more amp hours that (2) 6 volt batteries will provide. It really depends on your camping plans.

Wow, under the bed is a new one! Our C had the water tank and pump under the bed. Believe me there was no flushing the toilet in the middle of the night without full hookups

I installed it myself in the driveway during a snow storm and It was simple. The hardest part was running a line from the one brake chamber to the rear of the coach.

Yes, I run the M&G system on our coach and Jeep, works great no electronics.

YUP, that's where they are usually hidden.

Nice work!

Morganski2002, is this what you are looking for? https://swanindustries.com/collections/retail-customer/products/copy-of-wsv150st-quick-water-fill

tdmerriott, Welcome to the FMCA Forums! Here is a link to take a peek at your options. https://www.fmca.com/motorhome/videos/player/24/38

I have not. Tried several products and replacing the pins in the connector is where I always ended up. hopefully someone else can chime in with a successful story and product.

Great research! All of those very reasons are extremely important to us as well. Its shocking how many systems are not fully proportional.

Bill, I ran them out west on many occasions with the old coach and a few times through the Allegheny mountains here from a dead stop, with toad on some back roads. On an interstate they will have momentum, I would usually loose that after a 2 mile pull.

Our class C gasser would run up over mountains quite impressively. Back then we didn’t tow a car but I did have an inclosed trailer behind us often times which had NO aerodynamics.

What’s surprises me, with low oil level it wouldn’t allow it to extend all the way out and you would hear the pump empty the reservoir. Coasting out while closed doesn’t make sense as that’s when the Reservoir would have the most fluid in it.