jleamont

Are you referring to the dash mounted air pressure gauge? If so that is for the entire air system, not just the air bags. It shouldn't move while driving without stepping on the brake pedal. Does it pass the air brake system test? Here is an example of a standard test; I would perform these steps and report back your findings to help narrow down what system (if any) is at fault. Test Air Leakage Rate (Static check) With a fully-charged air system (typically 120 psi), turn off the engine, chock the wheels, release (push in) the parking brake button (all vehicles) and time the air pressure drop. After the initial pressure drop, the loss rate should be no more than 2 psi in one minute for single vehicles. Test Air Brake System for Leaks With parking brake, (all vehicles) and trailer air supply button (for combination vehicles) released (pushed in), apply firm pressure to the service brake pedal. Watch the air supply gauge and listen for leaks. After the initial pressure drop, the loss rate for single vehicles should be no more than 3 psi in one minute. If the air loss rate exceeds these figures, have the air system repaired before operating. Test Low Pressure Warning Alarm and/or Signal Turn the key to the on position. Rapidly apply and release the service brake pedal to reduce air tank pressure. The low air pressure warning signal must come on before the pressure drops to less than 60 psi in the air tank. If the warning alarm/signal doesn’t work, you could be losing air pressure without knowing it. This could cause the spring brakes to activate suddenly. Only limited braking can be done before the spring brakes come on. Check That the Spring Brakes Come on Automatically. Continue to rapidly apply and release the service brake pedal to further reduce air tank pressure. The parking brake button should pop out when the air pressure falls to the manufacturer’s specification (usually between 20 to 40 psi). This causes the spring brakes to come on.

Technical section; https://community.fmca.com/forum/9-technical/ Photo section; https://community.fmca.com/forum/111-rv-photo-gallery/

That appears to be in amazing condition for its age! Good luck if you need any help just make a new post in the proper section. There is a lot of experience in here that is always willing to help. Please post photos as you go.

True craftsman you are! Very nice work detail

HyLine is the manufacture. I spoke to one of their engineers that day and was advised it could handle much more weight than the jeep itself due to the Winch capabilities. The adapters are made by Roadmaster for use with their bars. Adapters for the tow bar. https://www.roadmasterinc.com/products/accessories/adaptors.php

YUP, my bumper is rated and works great! Now I know you are going to ask me who makes it. I’ll have to chase that down, I know it’s not Rock Hard and I bought it from Quadratec at one of their Jeeps and Java events.

I am surprised the tag shows an LT tire, typically they are ST. LT - Light truck ST - Special Trailer Hopefully Tireman chimes in, he has written a few topics on this ST vs LT tires.

If you purchase one and keep it in the RV it will most likely cure itself and you'll never need it. Bought a new snowblower a few years ago, didn't snow for two years more than a dusting, and I live in PA

Here is a discussion to read; I did our class C with products from Summit racing. I had to attach it with rivets with fender washers to the existing insulation (not all the way through to the interior). I tried the self adhesion stuff, it fell off from the heat and landed on the manifolds (wasn't much fun removing on the side of the road). RSbilledwards might be a good expert on this, hopefully he will chime in.

Check and see who is the manufacture is of the water heater and call them. Propane filling station, do you mean the fill valve on the tank?

paulman, congratulations!

Puff, coach looks good! Safe travels

As Ian mentioned above. Sounds like they changed the oil and didn't reset the oil life indicator. Most shops you have to advise them of it, for it to get properly reset.

I have had them leak, not disconnect unless kicked which results in "stuck on defrost" complaint. Most times you can disconnect and reconnect and they stop leaking and it solves the loss of vacuum issue that is sounds like the OP has.

On most Ford products the problem is usually in one of these plugs. They are notorious for coming loose, another problem area is at the dash pots (actuators) those come loose also and leak. Locating these under the dash of an RV could be a difficult task.

LOL, I did at first also.

It will lean out the engine causing it to miss fire, thus damaging the catalytic converters. That was a great question.

Here is a link to the product mentioned. https://www.scangauge.com/products/scangauge-d/

nbk7ak2, Welcome to the FMCA Forums When was the last time the radiator was cleaned between the innercooler and radiator? Do you have any other method to verify that gauge is accurate? Let me explain, our Monaco product ran hot, especially pulling hills, I installed a Scan Gauge D and began to monitor coolant temp along with a few other gauges, low and behold its just a gauge problem and the warning light on ours is triggered by the same sensor.

Have you tried it on the bench with nothing on the output side?

Lengelb, is this gas or diesel powered?

If you have any questions we are here to help.

We park ours in early November, it doesn’t get started until later March. I do exercise the generator (under load) and Aquahot for an hour monthly while it’s parked.

Below is the link on the tire program. https://www.fmca.com/rv-tires-discounts I would call around to the larger truck tire dealers (not truck stop tire stores), ask them if they honor the FMCA program. They might have some deals currently outside the program that could provide a deeper discount, a few members have reported that scenario worked well for them. Michelin has a dealer locator, I would look at the brand you want that is on the FMCA tire program, go to their web page and seek out a dealer. https://www.michelintruck.com/tools/dealer-locator/

Sounds like the clutch is out of adjustment. You can either locate your manual based off of that system you have or call Lippert for help, the link for both is below; https://support.lci1.com/power-gear-slide-out-system