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Everything posted by jleamont
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We have the windshield mount design, its located about 12" up from the bottom of the TV cabinet, facing forward. its actually mounted backwards since its stuck to the cabinet but works just fine.
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Location Of Test Ports Allison 2000MH Transmission
jleamont replied to rlbarkleyii's topic in Chassis
rlbarkleyii, I would recommend having it installed on the cooler line. My 3000 series has a block the breaks the line to the cooler and it screws into that. another option; I would see if there is a plug on the pan that is not being used, If I remember correctly the 2000 series has an actual pan under it. I cannot recall from memory if it was steel or aluminum, either way it could be added to the pan. Just throwing some ideas out there, the last 2000 series I worked on was at least 9 years ago and it was in a medium duty truck. I am sure if you have a local Allison dealer they could come up with a few ideas. Good luck. Joe -
Your welcome. Safe travels
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I had the Banks trans control module and engine chip in our last coach (V10 Ford chassis) it still down shifted, just not as frequent since the engine was producing more HP and torque. I will say it shifted much better with it, it stopped hunting for gears and the shifts were tight and quick, unlike before where it would slip each shift.
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deborahheintz, We run I-81 a lot from TN to PA and back, these hills are not bad. I believe the highest elevation is around 1600 feet, but it is a very gradual climb in stages, to the point you really do not realize how high you are. I get pretty good mileage from our DP on that road so it can't be too bad. If you head that way I would not run I-77 in Virginia (the North Carolina side is nice) which connects to 81. I-77 has steep climbs and drops winding turns and cliffs, we just ran I-77 this last weekend for the first time in my wife's Ford Explorer and it labored a bit harder than I expected. Good luck and safe travels.
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peterk, I walked out to my tool box this morning to look for it, I have a Snap-on socket for those inner wheel nuts. Snap-on part number is BW626A it fits a 3/4 socket wrench the square nut side is 13/16. Its a pretty standard tool on any medium duty/heavy duty truck and bus from that era. The one posted above from ebay I am sure is much more cost effective. Over the pond try looking for a truck parts store, they usually have items like this hanging on the wall when you walk into the store behind the parts counter. good luck
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Same here, the one next to my generator has a one way check valve, it will only allow air in, not out. The air chuck next to my propane tank is the connection for airing up my tires....etc. I am still laughing at his post, I could picture my wife and I having that same discussion and then having to hear about it weekly until the day I die.
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Thats priceless and Genius! I am still laughing.
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Well said Dave!
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Yea, that was the reason I was considering changing over, plus the routine maintenance is much easier. We run all oil at work on tractors; the trailers are 75% grease 25% oil. Neither are a problem either way just the maintenance is easier plus there is a fuel economy benefit with oil, minimal but still there. Thanks Brett
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Puff, I could access the rear of the TV but only if it is removed. Connecting to the switch box would be much easier, since I have 120 and 12volt connections already there. Thanks for the help. Joe
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Brett, do you recommend changing over to oil if you have grease packed?
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Enjoy! We stayed at Nashville KOA, down the street from the Grand Ole Opry. Nice place, just refurbished.
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Thanks guys, we have a Winegard splitter box to pick your input source in the front overhead where the rear TV connects and gets a signal via coax. I was hoping for something to connect there that would convert the signal and use the TV as always in the rear with its remote. Sounds like this will not work, I might have to rethink how often I am on the antenna and make a decision to ditch the old TV for a new one or to let it go. Puff, do you think I have a lack of booster on the rear TV or a non digital TV problem? The TV wiring in this coach between the surround sound, DVD, VHS, Splitter, Satellite system is a mess, and to make things worse each item is in a different spot, trying to trace wires turnes into a project. I have never used the satellite system nor do I know how it operates, when I have no signal or cable hookup we rought it.
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mpierce, I am not sure if it was the fuel, additive or Gremlins. Do you run any additives in your road tractor? I had a bad experience a few years ago with a non-certified Bio Diesel product with a company I was employed at, I am pretty sure that junk is not available at a public pump and if so I would hope their filters stop the goo from entering your tank. Honestly we run B30 home heating oil at the house in the winter and it works better than straight heating oil, burns hotter and is more efficient. That trip still puzzles me, and the wind wasn’t the issue, I was barely on the pedal rolling like thunder up and down I-95.
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Herman, .
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Anyone ever installed a digital converter onto an existing TV? I replaced the one in the front with a smart TV but the bedroom unit is rarely used on antenna, but when I am on the antenna it cannot pick up any channels (2001 TV). Due to It's odd shape and mounting replacing it would be a hard endeavor. Sorry to hijack this thread but it's related. Thanks, Joe
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My recall was performed, then it melted down, started to leak and tried to ignite itself. I swear the recall is to destroy all evidence by burning the unit to the ground. I called them, I got what sounded like a fifteen year old kid on the phone who could care less about me and my families safety. Luckily for me I was sitting next to the unit at the picnic table when it occurred, I opened the side compartment and pulled all of the wires out of the back, when it wouldn't turn off with the switch or any actions I could take. I went to Walmart bought a small fridge for the rest of the trip. Came home and threw that thing out of the window, never looked back. Oh yea, the $100 Walmart fridge worked so much better, our food went from a wonderful 50 degrees to 37 in two hours. One year later and a $650 invested into GE residential fridge, I have frozen food in the freezer, cold food in the bottom and twice the space. Like I said they could care less about me or my families safety by designing and building that low of a quality product, then refuse to stand behind it, no thanks. Sorry for the rant but it still boils my blood when I think about all I could have lost that night last August because someone wants to pad their pocket with cheap junk.
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I spoke to their tech support, very helpful folks. Mine needed a water valve that was discontinued, so I scrapped it. It would fill itself, then overfill leaking onto the floor, when it wasn't being used. I kinda miss it, but we will survive.
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It's tough to put your head around having to manually shift an automatic when pulling a hill, but it is a reality for the coach to perform properly. One thought to keep in mind let the engine/turbo cool (idle for 5-12 minutes) after pulling a hill before shutting it down, high EGT's with an engine shut off is not good for anything. Someday I will install a pyrometer on this coach, I have replaced to many turbos that failed due to driver execution long before their time.
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Double check both tank vents, the newer vent designs are creating a problem in the industry most have a small filter on them and they clog causing the main tank to empty, while the other remains full unable to cross flow. I just had a new Volvo tractor do this, same complaint from the driver as you wrote above, the engine could only get enough fuel to run poorly, mostly drafting air-- under a heavier load it would stall intermittently.
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Jim, I would be concerned with how the air was introduced? This is common if the front tires were in the air and someone manually steered the coach by the wheels with the engine off. There is actually a tool to suck the air out of the power steering system when this occurs, usually only after a repair is made or like I mentioned above it was manually steered at the wheel end. If it happens again you might want to look at the system and check for leaks In the system, perhaps it's introducing air into the system?
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Wow, looks like you dodged the bullet on that one! Was the fan working on it prior to failure?
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We have one under the dash on our coach, very small toggle switch, no idea where it goes and doesn't seem to do anything. Someday I will figure it out when I feel like removing panels to chase the wires
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Herman and Bill, I also like your thinking, I installed three freight train horns under our coach last month, the Hadley's just weren't getting the point across.