jleamont

Jon48, those tanks should be drained at a minimum once a year. It really depends on how often the coach is used and what conditions it’s operated in i.e. high humidity would need more frequent draining, desert conditions less frequent. We travel in pretty much the same conditions annually. When we bought our DP I was checking the tanks for water 4 times a year. I have been able to reduce down to once a year as we don’t accumulate water. I will caution you the more frequently you pull those cords the more likely you are to create air leaks at those valves. I replaced ours with brass petcock’s. The only downside is I have to crawl underneath of hours to drain water out of the air tanks. Our coach doesn’t lower when the air tanks are emptied but not all are this way. Keep in mind there’s a lot of safety measures you have to take before you crawl underneath of a motorhome with air suspension. how often are you having the air dryer serviced?

Friends, we are drifting off of the original topic, headlights not bright. Please stay focused. Create another topic if you want to discuss RV sales. Thank you

I will be out with our coach tomorrow washing and waxing. I’ll hunt it down and let you know. Since they are almost identical with everything else. Normally....I say NORMALLY they are near the evaporator (up front near the generator In our application). But I will double check.

My windows are Atwood, already equipped with those covers. Never knew what the purpose was.

I was taught that when I got my CDL....long time ago, the instructor pounded it into me. When I trained mechanics for their CDL we practiced it. You ride too long with your foot on the service brake you in trouble! The mechanics understood and could connect the dots with the brake damage they come across often.

Interesting you brought this up. Mine was set to "Disable" for my engine over rev protection" in my ECM settings. Three weeks ago I changed a bunch of engine parameters, that was one of them I flipped to "Enable". I have over revved my engine with the brake on "HIGH" , I have learned, over 54 mph if I engage the engine brake it will over rev. Using the brake technique above quickly gets it under control I usually step on the brake at the same time I flip the switch at or above those speeds. the trip home from work with it I didn't get a chance to give it a try, speeds were too low. My cruise control now works properly so that one big plus! My coach left the plant on Saturday July 7 2001. The running joke is never purchase a car built before a holiday or on a Monday or Friday. Saturday brought an entirely new level to that statement. Most of my ECM settings made no sense, like someone was in a hurry to go home. My compression brake only ever worked on HIGH, the HIGH/LOW switch did nothing, turns out it was set to "exhaust brake" in the settings, now its set to "Compression" my high/low switch now works. Off subject, I did figure out my engine left Cummins as a 425HP and was derated by HR/Monaco to 395 (supposed to be 400, remember the Saturday thing above ). Its now a 425 again, that setting was available at no cost, usually there is an up charge which leads me to believe it left Cummins as a 425. Since I have EGT and electronic temperature monitoring I can see if the coach coolant package can handle the change and the transmission is already rated to 450HP. 30HP isn't anything to write home about but you can feel it pull harder.

Headed up on ours tomorrow to wash and wax it. Monaco has treads built into the fiberglass down both sides to walk on for grip. 6 years its worked well.

Our 02 HR has a whistle for years I narrowed down to the headlights. Its air passing through them into the generator area. If I hang the nose protector on it goes away. Does the windshield leak water?

Apply the service brakes hard, not enough to engage the ABS for 1-2 seconds, watch the speedometer and tachometer drop , let off. The last thing you want to do is ride the brakes, they will overheat quickly and fail especially if they are drum brakes.

Yes but so will the paint. Let me explain, the shield requires more heat then the paint to remove (in my situation) its actually a harder material. I bough a product that I found on the internet which breaks down the shield but doesn't harm the paint. It came as a kit with everything needed but a wallpaper steamer and it worked like a charm. I did this after I learned the hard way of the shields durability.

Wizard, Welcome again. Whats the cost for that vs. the other Michelin line?

How tight should your oil drain plug be?

One personal experience with the chimney designs. I have yet to see an RV manufacture follow the refrigerator manufacture's recommended chimney design or refrigerator installation. I would download the refrigerator installation manual for your model and follow those.

Thanks Herman!

Ernie, where are those grey treads available to purchase?

As you can see ours are in need of some updating. That wood would look good with the rest of the wood on the dash area. The only area of concern, our upper step lifts for storage.

Ernie, what kind of wood is that?

rogedie, please post the year, make, and model of the RV and the heater make and model in question.

Remember, no political posts, this includes memes. I deleted a post this morning that was out of line. If you are not sure of the rules please read this; Thank you,

Obed, this ones for you. Paccar air cleaner

I'd wear that!

I am a bit surprised for the amount of people that travel to Florida in winter no one can toss some insights into that area for any must see stuff, places to eat and shop....etc.

Sounds like Dicor self leveling sealant. Photos would be a huge help in identifying it.

Wow can you guys drift off topic. stay focused

All 4 of us are going. I went through it last weekend and cleaned it all up, top to bottom, took me several hours! All that's left to do is load food, most of which we haven't purchased yet, bed is made and all linens and such are loaded.