jleamont

Nice! Were you able to test the AGS functionality? Wondering what’s needed so it will automatically start the generator when you call for air conditioning or were you able to locate that wire? I have always wanted that to work with our AGS but haven’t given it much thought or invested enough time to figure it out.

Aerodynamics on over the road trucks work in conjunction with many items. All of them together can save on fuel but the payout is small. The best bang for the money is a properly spec’d truck with hp/torque ratios and gearing. I can tell you from experience these are not programmed for MPG and with only 6 forward gears there is only so much you can do. Lastly the biggest fuel saver is the one behind the steering wheel.

Here is a thread on this very subject;

Looks like Mike hasn’t been around for almost 4 years. You could try to send him a private message, that could trigger an email for him to log back on. Otherwise someone else might be able to shed some light onto this topic.

Anchor Down RV resort is beautiful! You can’t beat the views from the sites over looking the lake. We had site 174 with a full size outdoor fireplace. Pine Mountain RV resort was nice and suited our needs well a few years ago.

bsjones11, have you called M&G? Most systems require the charge wire to the car due to their design that is drawing power from the car. M&G doesn’t do that, it’s a simple system that is most cost effective than anything else I’ve seen. https://m-gengineering.com/compatibility-list/

I have seen many V10’s with over 300,000 miles in them. Every failure I saw when I was at the dealer were always related to improper maintenance. The biggest was too heavy of viscosity motor oil, low quality filters or not frequent enough oil changes. Believe it or not I saw many with 15w40 in them fail. Spec calls for 5w20 or 5w30 depending on the year and if 5w20 that spec is synthetic blended. The three valve engine will wipe the lobes off of the cams of idled too much. We traded our 1998 V10 in with 96,000 miles on it. Ran like new.

I agree with Rich. Make a call and be clear of the coach axles and it’s weight. It’s ok where there is no gate, if the tool booth has a gate and the Pass doesn’t match the load coming over the scale it will not open. The police come over lights blazing, traffic is backed up, horns blowing, it gets awkward. NJ is prone for this issue. As Herman says “I’ve got the shirt to prove it”.

We have one full size mirror on the pocket door between the shower and kitchen. She said that’s enough. Your probably right Puff! Then it will be too much wood

Welcome to the FMCA Forums! That hose should be a hydraulic hose that could be duplicated at any hydraulic hose store, most towns have at least one place that can make those.

Floydfowler, if you find another alternative please post it. We have an 02 Imperial and I’d love to remove those mirror doors and replace with something else. I considered building new doors from wood and having something put on it, logo phrases. We really do not like those giant mirrors.

Those prices are extremely high. I’d Call Source engineering and price check those; http://sourcerv.com/ Or remove a bag and take it to a truck parts place locally and see it they can price it and determine the part number

Puff, is that compartment vented?

Yes. If you run on diesel it will circulate through one zone automatically, but the fan doesn’t come on unless the wall thermostat in that zone calls for it (toilet room in our coach) on electric no heat circulation. FYI those are 5/8 heater hose that feeds the registers within the cabin area, nothing special. Very simple system on that side.

That’s a tire brand I forgot about. A previous employer of mine ran those and Hankook. Good tires!

What size and model Hercules tire do you have?

naterrt, Welcome to the FMCA forums! You can run the system with the domestic water loop drained or winterized, I wouldn't run the unit without the unit without the heat zones completely bleed out. I would fear the pumps would be running with no solution in them and damage the pumps. Since you are converting over to "boiler antifreeze" from traditional automotive ethylene glycol make sure all of the system is completely drained including each heat register and the wall tubing supplying the heat registers. You could accomplish this by blowing compressed air through out the loop, just be sure to keep the pressure low, id say below 10 PSI unless you locate a spec that states otherwise. Finally, YES, that product is premixed and you do not need to add water. When I replaced the fluid in ours I vacuum filled the system with a tool similar to this one, I did not convert it to the new Boiler fluid you have pictured above. https://www.grainger.com/product/45PG67?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIup-Q8oTk4wIVhJ6fCh2zzweFEAQYAyABEgJtNPD_BwE&cm_mmc=PPC:+Google+PLA&ef_id=EAIaIQobChMIup-Q8oTk4wIVhJ6fCh2zzweFEAQYAyABEgJtNPD_BwE:G:s&s_kwcid=AL!2966!3!50916716037!!!g!82496524917!

That's great news!

Eric, the factory molded plugs fail internally also. Happens on every coach we’ve owned so far. I’d start with a replacement plug.

Glad you found the culprit!

While we can all appreciate the warnings we have to remember, the unit is deflated already, we can only go up from here, lets keep it on topic.

My experience with those salvage yards was the same, very disappointing! I needed a power sun-visor they wanted almost $300.00 for a used one plus $100.00 in shipping, a new one from Carefree was $310.00 and free shipping. I bought one from a company that removed them and upgrades RV interiors for $50.00 and $25.00 shipping, sadly it was coming from several hundred miles farther than either salvage yard and the shipping was significantly less also.

SCOTTD, Welcome to the FMCA forums! The leveling valve on our Monaco product is the center of the steer axle, behind it, there is a long rod that connects to the valve which is mounted above the axle. You can see the rod if you bend down at the generator and look toward the rear of the coach. We have a different chassis but that should give you a starting point.

HotROD1987, Welcome to the FMCA Forums! I just google mapped it, to be honest if time was a concern I'd go that way. I64W to I95N to I495N to I270N to I70N to I76W to I99N to I80W to I79N to I90N into Niagara. Depending on the time of day I495 could be a real hassle. I'd plan to be through there after AM rush hour or the middle of the night.

Five, that lack of attention to detail would be a big concern of mine. If they cannot clock the wheels properly did they follow the other more critical steps, which are harder to perform; Cleaning the hub flange and landings Two drops of oil on the attached washer on the lug nut, rotate the washer to spread the oil Clean the wheel mating surfaces Properly torqued I would have them re-clocked ASAP, which at that point have them fully removed and make sure the items above were addressed. You don't want your wheels to pass you on the highway! If anyone of the steps above are not addressed at the time of installation you increase the risk of a "wheel off" situation.