jleamont

Yes. I was present when they were recording all of the information off of the side walls, I got a copy for the "tire" file in the coach.

Hope Dodge paid some for that advertisement.

Bill, I'm betting the solenoid failed. We have had this coach for 4 years, I'm on solenoid #2. I just bypassed it two weeks ago, done with it! I want to shut the power off to the house side ill turn the battery disconnect master switch. If yours is like ours Monaco put a diagram in the electrical bays to identify the components.

So do I, but it didn't come that way . Be careful the 315/80 is heavier and will reduce your MPG's

How many motorhomes could possibly be equipped with an 11R22.5?? That is a Regional/LTL/P&D Tractor trailer tire.

GREAT Catch!

Mostly here. IRV is ok, but a handful of the people on there tend not to be friendly, little camaraderie if any at all. Rvillage is tough to navigate and I'm with Herman on the constant asking where you are gets old quick. Social Media works well for me giving a helping hand, not so for receiving, little tech knowledge on there. I often post links from this forum on there to migrate folks to FMCA.

I do the same thing, got my DW doing it also. I will often recite the vehicle code, and count out all of the defects. The problem is when they are really bad it angers me as I know this person could ultimately cause an accident at some innocent persons expense. DW had a TT pass her (she was running 75) this guy had to been pushing 85 up the interstate, when they guy got along side she backed off and low and behold BOOM!! One tire exploded and took the side skirting off, no damage to her she just ran over his debris that fell off the side. That was her first tire exploding experience, she said it sounded like someone shot at her. Joe, we could chat for hours, and laugh and laugh

We run the 10w-30 Shell rotella T6 on engines that are labeled 15w40. Approved and signed off on by Mack, Volvo, Cummins and Detroit. Not a one road tractor has a sticker stating that’s a suitable choice. But their engineering team knows it and approved it. As mentioned above we run it on engines that are 20 years old and they have exceed 1 Millon miles using it.

Edain, so you put a single pole bulb into a double pole outlet? What was the bulb number 1156/1157 style or 3156/3157? I'm trying to picture if you shorted to GND or other light circuit. Rich, was Freightliner Module happy in 1999 or did they jump in with that stuff later on? Does it do it with Hazards on also? If you are sure the grounds are clean I wonder if it back fed into the turn signal switch and damaged it. Most often everything passes through that switch, some have a small circuit board built in and diodes. I'm not familiar with that switch design in 99 on a Freightliner chassis.

When I swapped mine to LED the turn signals would'nt blink if the parking lights were on. Some locations on the Motorhome will switch the polarity of the power to the bulbs to make them alternate off of the other lights on the circuit. The LED lights will not function when this occurs, so you have you block the current that is back feeding. I had to install a bridge rectifier in the supply lines. Output wires (marked + and -) with polarity to match the LED bulb. Then connect the supply lines to the other two inputs. It doesn't matter which one connects to which. I am and was lost, perhaps Kay could chime in, he helped me with it. Rectifier parts; https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071X9GMBR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_X.uPzbR8F8998

WOW, there's a name I haven't heard in a LONG time . Right up there with Brown and Dorsey.

Just a thought, this all didn't begin to happen with an LED light change over by chance? Any LED's on the circuit?

YUP, that sure looks like it! First thing I would do is remove the zip tie and electrical tape, look at the connections for corrosion. Also don't rule out the pinched wire under all of it

Billkish, Welcome!

your problem go away or do I need to pack extra tools in 3 weeks

Carl, due to the Semi Monocoque chassis my basements are pass through but only two, they do not cross into one another (wall between) like a bus, that causes less basement storage. Most are wide open you just pick what door you want to open to access it. You'll see it in a few weeks. I have tools and parts on one drivers side and the other has the full slide tray, so I can pull it all the way out either side which is a HUGE help. The first compartment is my fuel tank and excess filters, chassis fluid storage, sewer hoses and ladder. I am going to re position my fuel pump on the right side so its not blocking access from the right side, that will help a lot and the end goal is to move all the tools and parts to that old propane bay up front, to free up space in the one pass through. When I set up the slides go out last so I have full access to everything without smacking my head, then level.

No slides..I don't want the problems associated with them. We have 2 now and its useless floor space. Thank goodness they are on the drivers side...well if they were on the passenger side I wouldn't have bought this coach! Slides are an excuse to think less about the interior layout, get sloppy with placement of furniture and are bling to most people, the more you have the better, no thanks! I really love my basements on the drivers side being shorter due to the slide I also love banging my head every time I want something from that side also, or better yet crawling on the gravel in shorts to access the basement. If you ever have an opportunity to look at Kay's bus you will understand where I am coming from and how proper placement of utilities and furniture make all the difference. He has ample interior space to stretch out and a lot of basement storage.

One time I almost did when we stayed here; http://www.apachefamilycampground.com/ You can see that long pier from the photos and it would have been great!

Got ya, makes sense!

Rich, thanks! I plan on running this for another 8-10 years if I can. Next coach will be an older bus type metal skinned body 45' unit. Older Prevost or something along those lines preferably no slides, I just want simple, that's it!

No doubt its tough to locate someone reputable. I don't know of anyone out here other than Fire Apparatus mobile service only.

Bill and Brett, we run this (link below) in ALL Diesel engines at work including Cummins ISB-ISX, Mack E7, (1998-2003) Volvo D11 and D13, Detroit DD13, no issues. I will say up here winters are much colder then TX, might be why its a good fit up here and probably not such a good fit in TX. Oil change interval in everything 10.0 liter and up is 35,000 miles, 9.0 liter and down is 20,000 miles, unless a bad oil analysis come along, then we sample at the 1/2 point. 9.0 and down we dump at 400,000 miles, that's about as far in a commercial application they will go. 10.0 liters and up go to 850,000 non emissions we push over a million miles, emissions engine will bleed your wallet above 650,000 miles. Oil analysis also through the oil OEM always looks good on everything but the Detroit products, those are questionable to me but our Detroit rep says they are within specs. I look over every oil analysis for the fleet of 1500 units. I run the 15w40 version of the product, considered the 5w40 full synthetic but our coach doesn't get run in the winter. http://rotella.shell.com/products/full-synthetic-and-blend-oil/shell-rotella-t5-ultra-10w-30-synthetic-blend-fa-4-heavy-duty/_jcr_content/par/textimage.stream/1526113968147/7e0d3b1874601afdb1684e8dba1cafa080f9d9b31cde8ded992e8c1c92564660/ro-t5-ulta-ir.pdf