desertdeals69

I just put it in and really haven't had much of a chance to use it. When sitting in the campground at Seaside Or it worked well. It has a separate volume control so you can have the volume at the level you want and when it goes back to radio its at the level for the radio. I'm in Oregon City Or now and will be leaving tomorrow morning for Gillette.

My iPhone 8 has that feature. When the vehicle is moving it blocks the functions that require pushing buttons. You can over ride that function if the passenger is using the phone. I just changed out my dash radio because it played cassettes! I got one with cd player and blue tooth for 2 phones. It has auto answer so when I get a call all I have to do is talk.

I have MASA, lifetime. Good world wide.

I use a Wilson We Boost with a trucker antenna mounted on the roof. It seems to work, increasing the signal 2x.

I have a MiFi 7730 L Verizon, as long as you have a signal it works pretty good until it hits 15 gig then slows down. I then go to my iPhone and it works pretty good until it hits 15 gig and then it slows down. The MiFi costs me $20 a month.

I was told that my Verizon plan covers Canada and Mexico, no extra charge.

Thats what I found out when troubleshooting mine. I have a 6.5 Onan with two circuits, one 30 amp and one 20 amp. That's why I completely rebuilt my electric system-- converting it to a 50 amp ATS and shore cord. I have the 30 amp side power the Acs and the 20 amp power the rest of the coach when the generator is running. When plugged in to 50 amp each side has 50 amp. My roof airs draw 20-21 amps total with both running. Glad you got yours running finally.

On my 98 Discovery the transfer switch is behind the breakers under the fridge. Its a cheesy looking metal box about 5 inches square. Mine was intermittently working so I rewired my 30 amp system to a 50 amp. Installed a big transfer switch in the bay next to the engine where the 50 amp cord comes in. Ran a 8 gauge stranded 3 wire from the gen to the ATS. Works perfect and is accessible to work on.

I was referring to a check valve as mentioned by the op and clarifying the function of the check valve.

Years ago I was a dealer for RVA. Will it retract using the manual valve? The last time I saw Dennis Kay was some 7 years ago and he was just about shut down with only one employee left, from a high of 20.

The check valve is located just after the incoming hose from the spigot. It prevents the system from back flowing into the hose when it is disconnected from the spigot and the water pump is on. If the valve is bad water will flow out the hose.

Check the brake requirement in Canada. Some years ago when my friend was delivering boats on trailers and rv trailers to Canada he was not allowed to enter the country without having brakes on all axles.

I think you have a valve problem. I would guess your old pump was ok and was just running because the fill valve is not closed tight. I just put in a new Shur Flo pump and it works fine.

I had my duplicates made at Home Depot.

Its a plug disconnect that is water resistant, used on the battery circuit of trolling motors.

Thats less expensive than fixing the road!

That should work. I would also have a ground wire same size as the positive using your trolling motor plug. Have your fuses on the positive wire as close to the termination point at both ends.

Years ago I had some and we had them steam cleaned.

Look at the OEM bulb number and look on ebay or whoever your preference is and there will be dozens of sellers of the LED bulb that will work. I have been running LED bulbs for several years and before that I was running a HID light system.

is there power to the plug or the fill valve?

Just pull 2 pins and the bar comes off.

When I got my new to me coach 2 1/2 years ago the first thing I did was to install a new fuel system. Had a VP44 failure on my last coach at 128K miles and was told I was lucky because they usually don't make it pass 120K. I was told that the failure is partly due to inadequate lift pump pressure. I replaced the VP44 and the lift pump. I chose the complete Air Dog system. It has a 1/2 in suction line from the tank and a 5/16 in return line. Since I added a second tank the withdraw is from the rear tank and the return is to the front tank. The unit has a 20 micron filter on the main line and a 2 micron on the engine feed line at 16 lbs pressure. The unit is mounted in the side compartment next to the engine and has easy access to the filters.

When I turn mine on the set gear goes to 2 and actual gear is dependent on the vehicle speed.

One other possiblity is the ign switch start contact is not 100%.

The thing that reduces the consumption is that the refrigerator doesn't run all the time. After its cold it only comes on about once every 2 hours and for only a few minutes so the consumption is not that bad. After I installed it I ran it for over 2 days in my garage, where there is no sunlight, before the batteries needed recharging. If I'm dry camping and need to conserve power I switch off the ac to all the electronics as they draw almost as much current when turned off as turned on. I'm glad your happy with your setup, I'm happy with mine.