desertdeals69

I would erect sort of a sunscreen cover to protect it in the future.

Is the winterizing valve all the way open? Have you flushed the hot water tank? Check the pipes for corrosion and blockage.

It might depend on the rear end ratio. Mine is into 6th gear at 54 mph. I usually use economy mode.

Sounds like a good system. The only thing I would have done different would the to use a mppt charge controller because they are reported to be 98% efficient vs 60% or so for the other. Where that will come into play is on partly sunny days. I installed a 600 watt system, Renology panels and their mppt controller and the remote panel. Total cost was less than $1000. I have 6 AGM golf cart batteries and a Xantrex 3000 watt inverter/charger and a residential refrigerator. As long as the sun is shinning I'm good to go!

Half it.

Thanks I'll look into that.

What year is your coach?

I wish they made it for Apple.

I had my passenger side windshield crack when the air was empty and the front was on the stops and I raised the back on one side to change a tire. I now raise the front when I tilt the back. Maybe the clearance between the fiberglass and the windshield should be increased so it won't bind.

If you use hydrogen peroxide it will do the job without any after taste. Pour 8 oz into the fill hose and then fill the tank with about 10 gallons of water. Run each faucet until the treated water comes through. When you are ready to use the system just fill the water tank full and use it. No chlorine taste.

I would leave it empty.

My experience with gas chassis is with Dodge in the mid 70's to the mid 80's and Chevy in the 80's and Ford class C in the 90's. I have had about 8 different chassis and when I first got them they all had handling problems. I tried all available mods and they all improved the handling but it was when I moved to a diesel pusher that I realized what I had been missing. I just got my second diesel pusher 2 weeks ago. I'm a happy camper.

Your floating charge is OK but you need to check the bulk and absorbion modes to see if they are OK. I have 6 AGM batteries made by Full River. They sell for about $250 each. Check online for a dealer near you.

In our test the boiler tube temp starts to rise (not good) at 2-3 degress front to back.

Unless you have to be an early adopter I would wait until they have proven themselves. Until they figure out why they catch on fire I would stay away from them. An airline switched all their credit card machines to lithium and one caught fire in the galley so they immediately took them out of service. Also e cigarettes are have the same problem.

We stayed at Watchmans in Zion a few years ago and they had electric.

If the fan is squealing the bearings are dry. The fix is usually to replace the motor.

Check for a filter. If it has one change it and the fluid. It should not be foaming.

I use the Sterling towing a 1/2 ton Silverado. Works perfect.

Did you check the kill-a-watt when it was defrosting? It probably draws 10 times the current as the running amps on the spec.

If the ride height is maintained going down the highway there is ample air to lift the weight.

I did some test on residential refrigerators running on different inverters from 300 watt to 3000 watt. I used 3 refrigerators of different brands and 4 different brand of inverters. Some of the refrigerators wouldn't even run on some inverters, both msw and psw. I could never conclude a consensus so I just picked the refrigerator I wanted and then chose the inverter that worked with it. I wound up with a Haier 10.1 cu ft and a Xantrex SW3012. I did put a switch on the auto defrost because it came on at least once a day and it has a big amp draw. I have 6 AGM golf cart batteries and 600 watts of solar with a MPPT charge controller.

I am running 6 AGM golf cart batteries with 600 watt solar on the roof. It will charge with full sun at about 40 amps. My charge controller is a 3 stage charger same as my 3000 watt Xantrex inverter/charger.

Replaced carpet with bamboo flooring. Be sure to choose a laminate with a wood core not ground fibers. Would do it again.

The Norcold sensor is installed on the outside of the insulation and turns the power off at 800 degrees. If the outside of the insulation is that hot it probably is already on fire. The ARP control sensor is attached to the boiler tube and senses when the temp reaches 400 and turns off the power for 10 minutes and lets it cool down. When it comes back on if the temp climbs past that point it shuts off for 20 minutes. If the problem is not taken care of it does it 5 times and then stays off until manually reset. The temp is never let go high enough to cause the internal damage. The rise in temp is caused by not being level or going up or down steep hills. The position of the sensor on the ARP control is covered by the patent so it can't be copied.