desertdeals69

I worked on many of the motorhomes of that era. I believe for a 29 foot coach you have a Dodge M600 chassis and a Dodge 440-3 engine. That was the time the automatic transfer switches started showing up. If you want to replace the manual switch, check with salvage yards. I have seen them from time to time.

Have used them for 16 years and they seem to work ok.

We have used Watchmans campground in Zion which is a federal park. Had electric and was able to put hoses together to get the tank filled.

There is a big rest area east of Amarillo that has wi-fi the last time we were there.

Thanks Herman

It doesn't make any difference what type of axle it is, the caster still has to be correct. On a stick axle the ride height is critical as it changes the caster if not at the right height. Wedges of different angles are used to get the correct angle.

Also it could be not enough caster. I set more caster in my IFS and now it tracks much better. My toe was correct.

Check the thermostat wiring, see if there isn't some crossed wires.

I use the fresh water from the tank to do the normal flushing, I just use the city water for flushing the black tank.

I never use my fresh water tank to flush the holding tanks, just city water at the dump sites.

Both at my campsite and at the dump station. The water comes from the spigot.

I don't use my fresh water, I am connected to the spigot at the dump site.

With my system it is push button. My nozzle is forceful enough to move the "mountain" of solids and it cleans completely.

I have a rinser that I installed that sprays directly at the bottom of the tank right where the toilet dumps. I found that when you are sitting for a length of time and not moving to slosh the mixture, a mountain builds of solids and is hard to dump unless you drive down the road first. I installed a timer so that the tank is filled to about 3/4 full with fresh water in 3 minutes. I dump then repeat the process another once or twice. It comes out clean.

I would just add to the system a can with stop leak and see if that helps. Usually the system is sucked down after the system has been opened, such as replacing o rings or hoses.

Back in the mid 70's I started installing the rinser on the water pressure line to the toilet so that you could rinse the bowl with force. I've made that modification to every one of my coaches since then (about 10).

If you want to tow your Honda and not have to worry about damaging the transmission you could use a tow dolly.

Is there power in the wires?

If you use a dolly you would have to put the truck on backwards because if you didn't the rear end and driveline would still turn.

I have towed both and they seem to me the same. I would tow 4 wheels on the ground if the vehicle permitted it and use to tow dolly only if required by the vehicle.

These have been referred to as freeze plugs for years when actually they are core plugs. I have seen dozens of frozen blocks and the plugs don't push out, the blocks just crack. In marine engines those plugs are brass because not all engines have fresh water cooling. The brass plugs don't corrode with salt water for cooling. I have always used brass plugs in all my engine rebuilds.

Have you checked the outlet the fridge is plugged into?

I use a HP 4100 series which is an older one but it has a scanner with the printer. It is 12 inches deep so it fits in the overhead cupboard.

After determining I had no leaks on the plumbing and bags, still had loss of pressure I checked the input valves on each tank. I pressure tested them by putting 125 lbs of pressure to them and submerging in water. I found leakage. I tried to fix them by lapping the disc and it reduce the leakage but not eliminated it. I finally replaced with new and I still have air pressure the next morning.