desertdeals69

That is why I use air brakes with a proportional relay valve and separate air tank so the toad brakes are only on for the amount of braking of the motorhome.

I would check with the people that installed the brake system and then with Blue Ox.

Your error is easily corrected, you have to know the revs per mile and the rear end gear ratio and find someone with the laptop that has the right program. Every time I have changed my ratio, 4 times, I had my friend recalibrate my speedo. It takes about 5 minutes.

One thing to consider the larger the capacity of the battery the longer it will last with a given load, however it has to be recharged.

The inverter is a Xantrex SW3012, a 3000 watt, pure sine wave, with control panel. The solar panels are Renogy branded and also the charge controller is Renogy branded, 40 amp MPPT. The charge controller has 3 stage charging. I would go with the AGM 6 volt batteries.

The tops of the batteries must be dry and clean, no acid collection from the vents. With moisture and acid residue that is a direct short.

If you use a charger be sure it is a smart charger so it won't over charge.

I installed a center mounted tank for my generator. It has a remote fill panel that consist of the standard threaded fitting, bleed screw and a rocker switch for the solenoid shut off valve.

Have engine running so you have hydraulic pressure.

Check to see if there are any extra wires on the battery side of the switches.

When I installed a residential fridge I was having trouble with my batteries lasting. I have 6 AGM 6 volt, 600 watt solar which would marginally keep the batteries up. After logging my current draw I noticed that my current seemed high. I was drawing between 9 and 12 amps on 12 volt when the refer was running, with the refer listed at 2.3 amps (10.1 cu ft). Then I changed the inverter and now my current draw is 3 to 5 amps on 12 volt. My solar system consists of 6 100 watt mono crystalline panels and most important a 40 amp MPPT charge controller, with 98% efficiency. The cost was under $1000.

If you go to a tank farm you will see tankers from just about every brand of fuel there. The additives such as octane boosters are added on delivery to the station.

A 1/2 drive extension is square and four sided and what is needed is a hex and is six sided. Drain plugs on the rear axle has a square hole, my is 1/2 inch.

This has been for many years. Both gas and diesel is stored in bulk and when a station gets a delivery of fuel if that station advertises a particular additive is in their fuel it is added when it is pumped into the underground tank. A lot of blending is done at the tank.

I use Tire Minder which does alert you when there is abnormal loss of air pressure.

After 16 years I have never had to clean out the shower drain. A few years ago I had a leak between the pan and the drain so I had the drain out to reseal it with plumbers caulk. The inside was clean and free of any blockage. I wonder if it has anything to do with the soap used?

The fine print at the bottom of most publications from the different manufacturers state they reserve the right to change anything without incurring obligation to previous buyers. Translation: they don't have to make any replacement parts once their stock is depleted.

If you look at almost all of the current coaches with aluminum wheels, the outer dual has the stem pointing outward and usually is a much shorter stem so it doesn't look as hokey. I am aware of the position of the stem because I saw the difficulty in installing and removing the Tire Minder transmitter on the outer dual so I designed a tool to facilitate the chore. Hopefully it will be available in the near future.

They are about 6 ft long and one goes across the upper half and the other overlaps and goes across the lower. 4 6 ft bungee cords hook from one fender well across to the other fender well.

From the comments by a lot of posters, unfortunately it seems to be the norm.

It sounds like the bag is ruptured. It does not seal against the cone.

Toyos seem to be readily available and I use them as well as Michelins. They seem to be a little harder ride but not too bad.

Typically lcd are weak in cold weather. Does the temp remain set when the unit is off? If so just turn it back on.

The one that is brighter is the one with higher wattage. They are made for headlights with replaceable bulbs. There is over a dozen different numbers.

HID conversion kit or LED bulbs will make them very bright. They are a whiter light and light up the road nicely. I have been using HID conversion for about 6 years and now I think LED is going to take over. There is a lot of manufacturers making them. I was at the SEMA show last week and talked to dozens of mfg.