john_harris

Do you have a washer/dryer that could be leaking water into drain?

Use it all the time when traveling in colder weather. No issues unless it is really cold (below 30 or so). Also, we use ac in hot weather as dash units barely can do the driving compartment in either heat or cool mode. Watch fuel level as most Motorhomes designed to cut off genset when fuel level gets to 1/4 tank or so. Slight decease in fuel milage but you and your passengers will be much more comfortable.

I use the same procedure outlined by Monholt above. Ignition on, but not the engine running, Otherwise you will recharge system.

As i understand it, the cut off switch near the door is mainly used be dealers to power down lights while on the lot or to minimize draw while stored. When my solenoid stared acting up then finally went south, Ii replace it with cut out switch just in case i wanted to disconnect interior without turning off the main cutoff switch in the battery bay. Works pretty much same as Wolfe's suggestion above except I can isolate the circuit if needed. Has worked great for 5 years with no issues. Cut off switch has set to be turned off so I would probable just by pass it.

We traveled 5000 miles last summer with "Tommie", a hybrid tomato plant in a 5 gal decorative pot. While on the road, he traveled in the shower stall on a towel and then set on the dash enjoying the sunshine and scenery when we set up camp. Never lost a single tomato while driving. Ate the best tomatoes during that 3 week trip half way across the country and back. otherwise he would have withered and died while we were traveling. Now, if i can figure a way to take some green beans and corn next time!

Our 07 HR Endeavor has same set up and the frig is in the slide. No issues.

I prefer the sign I saw over the weekend on the rear of a toad that said "I'm pushing the big thing in front of me as hard as I can".

We were all "first timers" at one point. I don't think you will find a more willing group to share information and experiences. Welcome!!!

When dash unit alone is not enough, we run generator and front rooftop unit on heat pump setting. Like Rich, have not run furnace intentionally but did for brief time when accidentally left furnace setting on when pulling out of campsite, without any issues. While I do drive with refrigerator on gas mode, just don't feel comfortable with water heater or furnace on while driving.

Like Brett, I suspect the difference in fuel milage will be insignificant. I would think the answer would be found in asking yourself which vehicle will serve you best when not connected to the motorhome.

I do find a good bit of difference between computer mileage and actual "old fashioned way" of figuring it. On one trip as much as 1 MPG difference with computer showing the lesser of the two. That said, i see bigger difference in speed variations than whether or not I am towing. At 62 to 65 MPH i seem to get in the 7.5 MPG range on average but at higher speeds like 70, i was closer to 6.8 when traveling relatively flat terrain. only .3 MPG or so difference when towing. I have gotten as high as 8.1 on trip from WV to Indy traveling light and 7.8 with toad at the lower speed and no AC. As stated by Planocat, my comfort zone has dropped to the 62 to 65 range and my pocket book seems to agree. I am running a 400HP Cummins w/ Allison tranny in a 40ft Holiday pulling a Jeep Liberty.

Bought extended warranty when we bought our 2007 HR Endeavor. Worked most of the "bugs" out of coach during the original mfg warranty period and only used extended warranty once. Defrost element on refrigerator which cost in neighborhood of $350. Certainly not worth the $2500 or so we spend. Generally not a fan of extended warranties on anything, but coach can be major investment, so think of it like insurance, "never worth the money unless you need it then you are glad you have it" (I know it sounds like something Yogi Berra might say) On a used unit that has been well cared for, may not be worth money. If it has been well used, things may be ready to break down. .

Agree with KOCONNEL above. KOA at West Glacier is one of the better KOA's you'll find and very close to park entrance. We stayed there this past July. Perhaps a little pricey depending on what area of campgraound and type of services you opt for, but we would certainly stay there again. West end seemed to be closer to most areas of the park but if you have a toad, you can get to any area of the park during a day trip. Check to see if road construction has been completed. Last summer had major delays on lower section of Road to the Sun. Great time! Enjoy.

As you can see, opinions and experiences vary greatly. What I have seen is not one answer is right for everyone. While I had camped in travel trailer as child some 40 plus years ago, my wife and I had not had any real experience with modern RV's when we made the plunge. She was a little more reluctant but after a trip or two, She is the one most interested in hitting the road and planning the next trip. I too was a bit intimidated by the thought of handling a big rig but that soon passed. the question of new vs used has pros and cons both ways. New units generally seem to have a few bugs to get worked out. (it took us the entire first season). Used may already have those bugs worked out, but you may be buying someones problems. New has the big depreciation hit at the beginning but you have a better chance of getting what you want instead of what you find. Looking back, i am very happy with buy new and jumping in with all four. Wile learning curve can be steep, it is part of the journey. The FMCA forum has made it much easier.

Be sure and protect the park brake knob from an accidental release. We place a wood block with a eccentric slot that allows it to slide under knob and keep it from being pushed in by our furry friend.

Did Grand Tetons and Yellowstone last summer. Great trip. Agree with all comments above. You will probably be headed west on I-80 across Wyoming. Head north out of Rawlins on US 287. Don't be intimidated that it is 2 lane. It is very straight, mostly flat and most scenic. It leads right into Moran at the Tetons. Great views as you approach. The Grizzly Bear is very convenient and right in downtown West Yellowstone. Another option is Yellowstone Holiday, about 15 miles north of town. Smaller for sure but a little quieter and on a Lake with nice views.Your travel times look very tight.

If you have not watched the move RV with Robin Williams, do. Then you might consider writing a screen play based on your misadventures, Perhaps they are ready for the sequel.

Although a bit pricey, as Allyson says it is hard to beat Ft Wilderness. Big rig friendly and access to all Disney transportation system. Shuttle bus thru campground to bus transportation station and from there transportation to all parks; or shuttle to motor launch dock where you can boat to Magic Kingdom, Contemporary or Wilderness Lodge and from the main transportation center, monorail to other resorts around Magic Kingdom or to Epcot. Premium sites are generous and generally offer some degree of privacy. Great for kids but not too shabby for adults either.

I went to WV DOT weight station along interstate with full tanks during mid day less than peak travel time. They weighted front and rear full axle load, then allowed me to back up and reposition with only left side front and rears on scales. Gave me print out for each axle total and then left side only. Difference was the load on right for each.

My 07 HR Endeavor did not come with the ability to charge chassis batteries even though dealer lead me to believe it did. I too went with battery minder product and connected it to outlet on one of the storage bays just in front of the battery bay. Works great and have never been without full charge as coach stays connected to shore power in garage when not on the road. A quick disconnect of the chord in the battery bay and we are off. When dry camping, be sure and also unplug the "charger" from the outlet in the storage bay as it will create a pretty good parasitic load even with it not connected to chassis batteries.

With the age of the motorhome, if it has a solenoid, it may have "burnt out." Many of us have bypassed solenoid rather than replace them. I replaced mine with a switch just in case I needed to isolate batteries later.

My 07 Jeep Liberty has separate tail/brake and signal lamps. Made most sense to me to add a third dual element bulb and direct wire from harness. Turns out Jeep anticipated this and had plenty of space in the upper housing for the "extra" lamp and even provide a recessed cutting outline to make the location simple. Lamp is as bright as the original tail/brake light. Kept it simple, but realize each car/coach combination may be different. But, that is what worked for me.

Replaceable batteries vs non replaceable batteries in the sensors???? Seems that replacing a battery would be more practical and less expensive but I see some systems require replacing the entire sensor. What are the issues??

Keep in mind the tow harness might not be energized unless Motorhome ignition is on. At least my 07 Holiday Rambler is that way.

Never thought to check lugs when we stop but I do make it a practice to check tires and all connections to the toad when we stop and leave things unattended. Never know when someone might pull a pin or disconnect lights or brakes.