rayin

IMO the most important thing to know about a diesel engine is proper care for the fuel system. Always purchase diesel fuel from a high-volume retailer, one is much less likely to fill with water-contaminated fuel, which can be very troublesome out on the road. Adjusting to a diesel engine is a learning curve, begin by reading various RVing forums past discussions about diesel engines. Today Cummins is the only diesel engine manufacturer for any MH except Foretravel, Prevost, etc.(high-dollar units), prior to 2010 (I think) Caterpillar made OTR diesel engines, since then they are off-road use only. I would not make a decision of which MH to purchase on engine brand, but in a 40' DP, the Cummins 6.7 engine is under-powered IMO. This video explains much better:

Outcome?

I have one too. The first thing to check is the start and run capacitors. They are easily accessed without having to remove the unit from it's normal position. There is nothing special about this air conditioner/heat pump except it has two 120VAC compressors instead of one 240VAC compressor like a household unit. They are very similar, and any qualified HVAC technician for household units should be quite capable of repairing your unit. I have bookmarks for replacement parts if needed. This writeup detailing removal, repair, and replacing a Colemen-Mach basement heat pump should be very informative: Additional instructions for a diesel pusher are addressed near the end of this pdf. This utube video pertains to replacing the main circuit board.

This is the way I understand the voting on proposals, considering the structure of FMCA chapters. If you don't belong to a chapter, you never have an official voice in any decisions. Chapters elect a delegate to vote at regional, regional sends a delegate to vote at the national convention. To me that's like grade school, where a phrase is whispered to one person on one side of the room, and is passed to the next person; when the phrase gets to the last person on the other side of the room, it has lost the original meaning. Then the board of directors make the final decision, but they are not required to follow the voting outcome. If I have no idea of how voting is supposed to actually function, please enlighten me.

The home-made adapter cord i described is no different than a store=bought dogbone adapter, only length is different. I assumed he required the extra 25' length. Keep in mind there is a small loss(resistance) in every connection(which is why plugs get hot first)

Yep, I use the same reasoning for both shore power cord and switching from shore power to genset, or visa versa; to prevent arcing and destroying contacts.

Details here for chance to win a Cummins generator: http://app.noreply.cummins.com/e/es?s=1480&e=494167&elqTrackId=dfa63cb061a14f8e9727345c70e9c05f&elq=2a728a6d3e204b46aa4dee5209bb2ec5&elqaid=12347&elqat=1

Thanks for the catch KaySmith. Although what I said is accurate, it is reversed from what hphock wants to accomplish. It will be simpler and much easier for hphock to buy a 30A RV extension cord and replace the 30A male plug with a 50A male plug. Of course the 30A RV extension cord only has 3 wires, the black wire connects to one hot leg in the 50A male plug, the other two connect the same as a 30A male plug. Your total ampere limit will be 3,600 watts instead of 12,000 watts on 50A service. The only issue is, now your 30A entrance cord is wired to a 50A pedestal breaker, just like when using a store-bought 50A to 30A dogbone adapter.

This is not a DIY project for most people. In a "dogbone" 30 to 50 adapter one leg of 120VAC(30A)is wired to both hot legs of your(50A) RV.

FWIW, I just had the fuel distributor module (one of 4 components of the injector fuel pump) replaced on our MH engine, a 1999 Cummins ISC. I had already called 3 mobile service companies to diagnose the problem, they failed. I had our MH towed to Cummins Great Plains, Rock Island ILL. They could not read any ECM data either, the technician had to upload new programming into my ECM in order to obtain data and read codes. The service manager said my ECM was too old to display anything useful. That might be one reason for the 7 yr rule, but I suspect the main reason is coach parts availability.

Joe, good call on carrying a replacement pump. During our Alaska trip the wagonmasters water pump failed, he carried a spare; had he not it would've been a miserable trip for him and his wife. A new pump flown in from Seattle would be expensive.

You will overfill the transmission if you add to above line when cold. That is more harmful than being below the cold line. BE SURE to use the correct transmission fluid when you do add fluid. Your best option is to drive the MH until coolant and oils reach normal operating temperature.

One reason for the shortage of FHU RV sites is the practice of long-term renting. I stopped at a favorite RV park on our intended trip to Mayo Clinic. It had changed hands, now about 5/6 of the sites were long-term rentals, leaving only about 1/6 for short-term/ overnight rentals. This insures an income stream for the owner but removes those sites from the pool of short-term site available.

We returned to Cummins Rock Island last Wed. to pickup our MH,, stayed the night in their parking lot (again). Left Thursday morning, got 28 miles and engine died on I 74. Called Cummins, they sent a wrecker. Next day they discovered the problem, the electrical connection to the distributor module was not solidly connected. The service manager said Cummins would pay the tow bill since the problem was their fault. We're back home now, and the engine cranks a while before starting. They put on new fuel filters, I'll have to check them to see if one is leaking or double-gasketed.

X2! Only difference, we only use RV hand signals no talking unless one of us physically goes to the other. The only thing I use the sound on the rear camera for is to "listen to that big diesel engine roar", To quote a song. Really, I can hear if the engine is running normally via the camera sound much better than trying to listen inside.

The FMCA magazine, now Family RVing, used to have a section where the editor worked with unresolved problems. It was the Tech Talk section, entitled RV Doctor. The RV Doctor was Gary Bunzer, sadly he succumbed to Covid-19 in May. Perhaps another member knows the current status of the Tech Talk section.

Sign on my mechanics wall:

Another possibility, Has the cooling system thermostat been checked or replaced? How is the lower radiator hose? If it is soft and squishy(technical term there) It can collapse when the water pump is working fast.

Keep in mind, although most commonly call it an extended warranty, IT IS NOT; it is an extended service contract, by law. It is quite similar to a health insurance contract. It will pay for specified ailments/ failures for machinery only when you follow the contract requirements exactly. That said, when we bought our MH it had been parked in a barn for 8 years. We assumed it might have several things not working or would stop working in the near future. The 3-year ESC more than paid back the premium and deductibles for the coach portion, no claims were filed for the chassis portion. Our MH is too old to be covered by an ESC, 15 yrs is the maximum. Two weeks ago the fuel distributor in the injector fuel pump failed, Cummins Great Plains has completed the repair for a total of $5,050. Had the entire injector fuel pump required replacement the estimate was $10,080. Sure wish I could have had an extended service contract. Our MH has only 49,xxx miles on it, which leads me to suspect this failure may be connected to the 8 years of storage, because I asked if bio-diesel might be a factor and was told no is it not a factor.

I have lucked out by pushing in on the mico-chip quickly with a blunted-end toothpick. I pushed just enough to feel the ejection spring move the quickly released pressure. Once I inserted the incorrect micro-chip in a computer and that trick worked too. None were Clarion equipment though.

Roger this is exactly what I bought S637 235/80R16, LR G, your first link saying S637T :http://gosailun.com/MRT/Tire/S637T When I purchased in 2012, there was no S637T designation, but rather ST=special trailer, and they were marketed for low-boy semi-trailers. Sailun was practically unknown in the U.S.A. back then, they were popular in Canada. Simpletire.com was just the most convenient site to show the design, I've never purchased from them. The Sailun truck tires I bought in 2017 for my MH are all made in Vietnam, all other sizes are still made in China. They are S637, LR H.

I agree that Seven Corners are second-payers behind Medicare, and other health insurance coverage. https://www.fmca.com/pdfs/FMCAssist_BenefitsFullSchedule.pdf

DW and I are considering selling our MH this summer. We have health issues that have all but eliminated extended travel at our ages. We just spent $5k this week on the engine. We might buy a small TT for local use though, a neighbor has an older HiLo that looks good.

Just watched a segment on TV about the skyrocketing RV industry. RV rentals up by 1600% and new sales are outpacing production. https://www.businessinsider.com/rv-sales-skyrocketing-as-lockdown-ends-2020-6?op=1

2610watersedge; This is the Sailun S637 trailer tire, ST stands for special trailer.. Your size is rated for 4,400# and 75 MPH. I highly recommend this tire. They were originally designed for low-boy semi-trailers, RV trailers,, etc.