rayin

Since 1oz treats 80G diesel fuel, and klparker has 70G in his tank, and it might take 3 filter changes to get through that 70G; @ $3/gal for diesel, it may be a wash, empty tank or buy Biobor @ $14.26 + at least 3 changes of filters, then clean the tank of slime remaining on surfaces exposed. At today's diesel prices, $3/G roughly, disposing of 70G will cost about $250. He can always find a farmer who wants free diesel fuel to burn brush piles.

Thank you for explaining. FYI; BCI GROUP NUMBERS, AND DIMENSIONAL SPECIFICATIONS

To my knowledge there is no way to run algae-contaminated fuel through the engine. It must be removed prior to the injector pump = fuel filters. Once you have killed algae in the fuel tank it still must be removed. There are 2 options for that, one is fuel polishing, but at today's low diesel prices IMO it will be cheaper to#2 option- have the tank drained and cleaned. I would become adept at changing fuel filters, and carry 2 of each for spares when traveling, until you have captured all remaining black stuff. To greatly reduce the chance of this re-occurring, keep your fuel tank full when in storage, and only buy fuel at high-volume/turnover stations. Normal air temperature changes cause condensation in a partially filled fuel tank, which then settles to the bottom, where "algae" may grow between the water and fuel. A full tank has very little vacant space for condensation to form.

How does that work? AGM batteries require a different charging pattern than standard lead/acid batteries. I'm wanting to do what you did, but from everything I've read about AGM batteries vs lead/acid I would have to have 2 different chargers. I run the equalize charge function about once each 3 months for both house and chassis battery banks, AGM batteries cannot be equalized, how would I handle that? Take a peek at both these links and you quickly see why I'm confused. https://batteryuniversity.com/index.php/learn/article/absorbent_glass_mat_agm https://surplusbattery.com/batteryimg/10_facts_about_agm_batteries.html

Were this me, I would have already called FMCA membership services and voiced by concerns.

My reason for the question was back on Aug 9 2012 reply you stated 5 psi. Thanks for the clarification.

Excellent article Roger! I do not monitor actual temperature reading, as you said they are not reliable nor accurate. I do monitor for any substantial difference between readings for all wheels. I use the minimum temperature alarm setting/default setting for the TST system, 158°F. This will sound an alarm for one wheel, but long before it becomes threatening, which is my reasoning.

Don the electric motor will/should run regardless if the cylinder is connected on either end. First thing to do is as desertdeals requested, test the 12V motor for proper operation. If it runs you are left with mechanical breakdown-re' the loose screws you found.

FWIW, Meritor makes an air silencer for the air dryer system, and it's not a wooden box.

X2! When water gets into the air brake system things get expensive-and dangerous quickly. If chassis does not have automatic water ejectors, the manual tank drains should be pulled weekly for a MH.

HapptyHobos. Good Sam ESC does not have their own inspectors, they have contracted independent RV inspectors in every major city. IMO you did the right thing by contacting "Jamie" and persisting in obtaining satisfaction. It's like the old addage, "The wheel that squeaks the loudest gets the most grease." We also had a GS ESC policy on our MH. Overall we were quite satisfied with our results, money well-spend in our case. It is Cummins NOT Cummings. You may have been thinking of Senator Cummings.

AndyShane, you are indeed very lucky. That could have very easily became a fire instead of just melting/arcing a hole in the copper tubing filled with oil. Update/correction. I replied to andyshane, but Richard was my intended quote.

As I said, the only problem I ever had was the copper gaskets in the Duramax engine. I discovered the leak when the crankcase was full of diesel fuel.

There is something terribly wrong with these pictures; They are there, I'm here.

As Paul Harvey always said, " and that's the rest of the story".

I have not experienced that with any of my diesel-powered engines, had a 1973 Case diesel tractor, and this MH running on today's diesel fuel ever since ULSD and biodiesel were commercially-available. The only problem I've had was with my '02 Duramax diesel engine, biodiesel reacted with the copper seals in the high-pressure fuel lines underneath the valve covers, GM replaced them under a TSB.

I would agree, broken or detached gear mechanism. BTW, the piviot points should be lubricated monthly.

Yep, dot i's cross t's. It is a contract, and worded as such. I bought an extended service contract with our MH from CW, studied it before signing, as I would with any contract.

Tim, if I remember correctly, there is an air bleed on top of the 'stat housing.

Carl, Joe, that is the GS introductory price for new members, first year only, price almost doubles 2 year. I let my GS ERS lapse when I bought the FMCA/Saferide policy, GS denied my attempt to enroll at the introductory price last week. I have a, IMO, good deal with FMCA/Saferide, I'll stick with it.

I found out when I opened this thread, must have missed the information if it was in the magazine. Contact Skymed and request a quote for their medical assist program. Here is the Good Sam medical assist fee chart, which is an addition to their membership fee. OTOH, like some do with the ESC plans, you may self-insure.

Two entirely different scenarios Richard, once you submit a water sample for testing to a lab, legalities demand a follow-up and report to the state body governing such. I agree with you that the majority of RV'ers sanitize their fresh water system from an over-abundance of caution, or because others scared them into the act. I cannot recall ever reading about anyone getting sick from consuming water from their RV. reference: https://waterandhealth.org/safe-drinking-water/drinking-water/drinking-water-chlorine-odor/

When using chlorine/bleach, a simple sniff-test is all that is necessary, if you smell bleach in water at the faucet after an hour, chlorine residual is present; this residual means the chlorine was not completely consumed killing bacteria/germs, thus germs were eliminated. This has ran its course, I'll stop here.

They do have a LOT of used MH parts! All sales are final; they do not accept returns, nor offer refunds, for parts ordered. They do state parts are tested and verified in working order. I was on their website this morning looking at a used XantreX 2012 inverter/charger, their price $1,4xx.xx. I found a new one on ebay(full warranty) for $1,299 W/ free shipping. Check around before buying.

OK, please explain how 1 pint of 3% H2 O2 diluted into 15G of water(result is a 0.00025% solution) can disinfect anything, since a 3% total solution is the absolute minimum to disinfect tank and drinking water according to the CDC (see link in my previous reply). How does that 15G get in contact with the remaining empty tank to disinfect that? To maintain a 3% solution you must buy 120, 1 pint bottles of H2O2, which = 15G In order to use 100% H2O2 (impossible to buy) to dilute into 15G of water, it would still take 57.6 oz to create a 3% solution.