rayin

That is no longer the case; https://www.epa.gov/diesel-fuel-standards/diesel-fuel-standards-and-rulemakings

One that immediately comes to mind are farmers combines, which are only used during harvest time. The large farmers I know use nothing in their diesel tanks, just top them off, park it until next year. Of course they are not exposed to the high humidity levels as is marine fuel.

Right! ALL axle "U" bolt nuts(these are special long nuts) must be replaced with new upon re-assembly. https://www.autoandtrucksprings.com/recommended-u-bolt-torque

There is no high water level shutoff inline(to my knowledge) to stop city water flow into the storage tank, you are the water level monitor and shut-off. The pump head has a back-flow prevention valve inside, that has probably failed. You may purchase the pump head only if the motor is running properly. I suggest you trace the plumbing line from city water connection to where it Tee's into the coach plumbing - oh, never mind I see you have already done that. You may be right, the electric solenoid is sticking and not completely moving the valves to direct city water into your coach plumbing. If that is true, the fix might be as simple as disassembling that valve and replacing "O" rings, then very lightly rubbing them with Vaseline before re-assembly.

I agree with that. According to the Tire and Rubber Assn, over 80% of all tire failures are the result of underinflation/overloading. I used to have a hot link to the data, however they locked their website and I do not wish to pay them simply to provide a valid link to that data. This NHTSA/DOT pdf is quite interesting-IMO: https://crashstats.nhtsa.dot.gov/Api/Public/ViewPublication/811617, pages, 6-8 pertain to tires as the cause of crashes.

Think back, no-one ever gave it a thought before TPMS's were invented. Sometimes technology simply overwhelms us .

FWIW, Cummins/Onan states to run the genset at 50% load for 2 hrs each month. That said, when we bought this MH, it had been parked in a barn for 6 yrs without being touched.

Hah, Roger your last paragraph reminded me of the old woman who would have me check the air in the tires on her black Cadillac, but only after jacking the tires off the ground first. That was in the late 1950's when I worked at my uncle's filling station. P.S. I know the answer, at least for her Caddy.

I think the lowest hourly rate for RV work I've seen is $135/hr. I agree, buy the pump and DIY. Then call Splendide and try to cajole them into a warranty rebate.(all they can do is say no)

There are many good reliable brands, IMO Dorian PressurPro is the only one made in the U.S.A. You really do get what you pay for. For instance, on Amazon you may buy a TPMS from a low of $69 to a high of $2,998. IMO both of those are ridiculous. The Dorian 12 transmitter system is $769, and is IMO the best quality one may purchase readily. I have a made in China TST system which is perhaps $150 less today, I purchased it due to their high level of customer service.

That is the Federal Tire Placard, it lists the size tires on the MH , and the proper air pressure to safely support the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating =GVWR; this is the most your MH is designed to safely carry. If you do not have that tire size on the MH now, the air pressure listed may be incorrect for the current tire size. More that you ever wanted to know about the Federal Tire Placard (begins@571.110), and MUCH more. https://www.federalregister.gov/documents/2007/12/04/E7-22962/federal-motor-vehicle-safety-standards-cargo-carrying-capacity

Anti-sway bars! The sumo springs will make the ride harsher than now.

Set screw wire nut/connector, available at any electrical supply store. Made by Ideal. I think I bought some last at an ACE hardware store though. I first saw them when one of our maintenance men was performing some electrical work on my industrial wastewater treatment plant. I asked, and he gave me a few to try at home.

Roger, you made me curious, so I went looking and found: https://www.michelintruck.com/assets/pdf/bulletins/TB_ProperDirectionalTires.pdf That pdf also states, quote: " Operating directional tires from new to 50% worn in the opposite direction of that indicated on the tire will result in the premature onset of irregular wear, excessive noise levels and significantly reduced tread life. "

I has been my experience for the last 30 or so years; if daytime temps reach 50° or more, and nighttime lows do not fall below 27°F, in an unheated RV the plumbing will not freeze, because Nighttime lows occur about 5 AM, and at sunrise temps begin to rise. That only leaves a few hours at the low of the night.

If using a wire nut this is the one I use:

Make sure the engine coolant hose valve at the firewall is closed when the controls are on cool. I haven't heard of a vehicle air conditioner without a recirculate setting since the 1960's. Were this my MH, I would have already called the factory customer service line, since the coach mfgr installs the dash air stuff.

I wonder how much saving 7 cents a day really means to a person who has spent over $100,000 for a MH-or truck N trailer? (depreciating asset) If I saved 7 cents a day, I still couldn't buy a Starbucks coffee with it that month.

The inverter, when on, draws power from the batteries, as you know, then there are several phantom/parasitic loads that are also on all the time, some are on even when the main battery disconnect switch is activated. The sure way to disconnect MH battery banks is to disconnect the negative cables. At this point I would have the batteries de-sulfated, re-charging is part of that, and load tested 2 hrs after being removed from the charger. Then you/he knows the real condition of the batteries. As Brett said, one must use an old-fashioned stand-alone battery charger to kick battery voltage up to the point a smart charger will recognize they are batteries. ref: https://www.chargingchargers.com/tutorials/battery-recognition.html

Can't speak to MH's, but automobile codes may be cleared by disconnecting the batteries Neg cable completely, overnight..

Contact HDT repair shops nearby and ask about a total alignment for your brand of chassis. I did that, and they found the rear axle out of alignment by 3/4"(thrust angle) in addition to the front end needing slight adjustments. Now my MH drives almost as easily as my 2013 Silverado PU.

My only advice is to measure, measure, measure. when you have assured yourself the frig will fit through the narrowest openings, measure again before unbolting the frig. Second suggestion, get 2-3 younger men to do the heavy lifting. If modifications to the side-wall and roof are required to construct the chimney, download the installations instruction for the model of RV refrigerator you chose from Bryantrv.com and follow them EXACTLY, otherwise the frig will never operate as designed, properly.

Ditto, but my engine and generator area lights are not controlled by the master switch.

That, IMO points to a faulty ground_ location TBD. Have I mentioned I hate 12V issues, as over 80% are the result of a poor/missing ground_ somewhere.

🤞 Hope I never have a broken windshield, but thanks for the recommendation.