rayin

This is a better link to the process: https://www.streetinsider.com/Globe+Newswire/Winnebago+Industries+to+Acquire+Premium+RV+Manufacturer+Newmar/15916174.html

One must understand how CW operates at the service desk level. Explained to me by a technician; you make an appt. for repair work,; you drop-off your RV at the appointed time, it is placed in rotation. When your RV reaches the top of the list it is pulled into a bay where diagnostic work is performed, then your RV is returned to the storage lot. Parts are ordered, If every part has arrived, your RV is placed on the rotation list again, your RV is pulled into a bay when it reached the top of the list-again, and repairs are completed. Now if it does not pass diagnostic tests after repairs, the entire process begins again. Our MH (long out of warranty) was at CW for 3 months after purchase, I did get to drive it home the day of purchase though. After the fact; I was told I could have taken our MH home to use while in rotation, until the service writer called me to bring it back.

As Paul Harvey used to say, " and now the rest of the story": http://www.startribune.com/winnebago-industries-makes-340m-deal-to-buy-luxury-rv-maker/560485492/?refresh=true It isn't a done deal yet!

Take note, the ice cube "trick" does not work to clean a tank, sensors-perhaps, as ice floats. When one thinks about it, dumping 20# of ice cubes into 20G of tap water(1/2 tank) pretty much insures the ice will quickly melt. http://forum.prevostownersgroup.com/showthread.php?8173-Will-Ice-Cubes-Really-Clean-Your-Black-Water-Tank

We both love lobster, this was one of them: Would that be a balanced meal?

The trick is to inflate to 10% over your minimum air pressure as listed in the load/inflation chart. This eliminates the situation you have now, according to Tireman9. As long as your tire pressures are above minimum, no worries. Personally, I use the tire pressures listed on the Federal Tire Placard inside the vehicle, and never have to be concerned about altitude or temperature.

I think an ISC requires 2 950 CCA batteries.I also have Interstate SLA starting batteries. Today's AGM batteries may be charged alongside LA batteries, although the charging rates are slightly different. The downside is, you cannot equalize AGM batteries, which means the lead acid batteries on the same charger circuit cannot be equalized.

wholesalewarranties.com does pay claims due to wear and tear when diagnosed as such, it's standard. I just got off the phone with a rep an hour ago. He is emailing me the quote for coverage including their exclusionary contract terms. We bought a Camping World/GS ESC when we purchased this MH, it more than paid for itself, including deductibles.

Perhaps the inverter/charger accidentally got turned off? As to one thing causing the step and camera problems; over 80% of all 12V issues are the result of a poor/missing ground.

Final outcome/update. I talked with the owner of the HDT repair shop, who now also advertises they also do MH chassis work. He said the spring brake canisters are not the problem, nor is diff. oil level, he said if I was using the service brakes a lot, that can cause higher temps from the inner duals, simply because the TPS unit is confined between the duals. BTW, the starboard side inner dual alerted the same over-temp reading when we got home, that would be the lower(road crown) side dual, kinda refutes the low diff oil theory. I topped off the diff. to bottom of hole with 85/140 oil, JIC anyway.

I now forget where, but I once saw a flexible remote camera with a grabber on the end, like the grabber made to retrieve a dropped nut from a small hole. Wonder if one may be rented?

Do you have 2 black tanks or the full bath's toilet ran to the tank underneath the half-bath? I assumed the half-bath was the long run to the black tank.

Lyle, a farmers favorite tools are a hammer and roll of bailing wire.

I agree. Over 80% of all 12v problems are the result of a poor/missing ground. In this case I suspect this is the root problem, something else is making the ground connection because the intended ground is poor/missing. Did I mention I hate 12VDC problems?

That's not much different than FMCA/Saferide, which has a $500 limit for winch-outs.

Processing used cooking oil has been ongoing for at least 10 years. One man/full-timer on escapees hauls his own processing equipment along; collects used cooking oil from restaurants in a special tank on his class 8 truck, then processes it at a campsite. This became so popular restaurants began charging for their used oil instead of paying to have it hauled away.

Mine did the same thing, I posted here a few months ago about it. I called my local HDT and RV service center and asked why the high temp alarms. The owner told me not to worry is was the brakes heating up from the stop N go driving I was in at Pigeon Forge.

IMO it is the sewage line instead of the toilet that is backing up. It can be 1 or more of 3 things, too much TP being flushed at once, sewage line has inadequate fall, not enough flushing water used, or a combination of the 3. If you can reach that sewage line, insure coach is level, then use a digital level which had a degree of slope setting, or manually measure fall.

Since 1oz treats 80G diesel fuel, and klparker has 70G in his tank, and it might take 3 filter changes to get through that 70G; @ $3/gal for diesel, it may be a wash, empty tank or buy Biobor @ $14.26 + at least 3 changes of filters, then clean the tank of slime remaining on surfaces exposed. At today's diesel prices, $3/G roughly, disposing of 70G will cost about $250. He can always find a farmer who wants free diesel fuel to burn brush piles.

Thank you for explaining. FYI; BCI GROUP NUMBERS, AND DIMENSIONAL SPECIFICATIONS

To my knowledge there is no way to run algae-contaminated fuel through the engine. It must be removed prior to the injector pump = fuel filters. Once you have killed algae in the fuel tank it still must be removed. There are 2 options for that, one is fuel polishing, but at today's low diesel prices IMO it will be cheaper to#2 option- have the tank drained and cleaned. I would become adept at changing fuel filters, and carry 2 of each for spares when traveling, until you have captured all remaining black stuff. To greatly reduce the chance of this re-occurring, keep your fuel tank full when in storage, and only buy fuel at high-volume/turnover stations. Normal air temperature changes cause condensation in a partially filled fuel tank, which then settles to the bottom, where "algae" may grow between the water and fuel. A full tank has very little vacant space for condensation to form.

How does that work? AGM batteries require a different charging pattern than standard lead/acid batteries. I'm wanting to do what you did, but from everything I've read about AGM batteries vs lead/acid I would have to have 2 different chargers. I run the equalize charge function about once each 3 months for both house and chassis battery banks, AGM batteries cannot be equalized, how would I handle that? Take a peek at both these links and you quickly see why I'm confused. https://batteryuniversity.com/index.php/learn/article/absorbent_glass_mat_agm https://surplusbattery.com/batteryimg/10_facts_about_agm_batteries.html

Were this me, I would have already called FMCA membership services and voiced by concerns.

My reason for the question was back on Aug 9 2012 reply you stated 5 psi. Thanks for the clarification.

Excellent article Roger! I do not monitor actual temperature reading, as you said they are not reliable nor accurate. I do monitor for any substantial difference between readings for all wheels. I use the minimum temperature alarm setting/default setting for the TST system, 158°F. This will sound an alarm for one wheel, but long before it becomes threatening, which is my reasoning.