rayin

What some refer to as a transmission fluid cooler in the radiator is a misnomer IMO. How much cooling effect will occur from 195° engine coolant? It is actually a transmission fluid heater IMO. My Allison temp gauge run 180-190° during normal driving conditions, when climbing mountain it may reach 205°-210°. Very little cooling will occur under those conditions. I've never seen an Allison automatic transmission without a separate oil cooler, even my old Chevy Duramax W/Allison AT had an OEM external oil cooler.

Bad link

Thanks for updating us Jim.

My take on this is; at least one battery is faulty, this causes the charger to draw more current than available, when the inverter is turned on it supplies 120VAC power to items other than the charger. Since you have SLA batteries, remove them, take them to someplace like Interstate Battery and have them tested. I'd bet the bank requires replacement, DO NOT just replace the bad one; the old batteries will quickly ruin the new one. What happens is, the old batteries keep demanding a higher charging rate in an attempt to reach full charge, this over-charges the new battery enough to sustain permanent damage.

When re-charging the A/C system for the dash air, the low pressure line has the charging port, the high pressure side port is a different thread so you don't connect incorrectly. If the line is cold to touch that is the correct line for adding refrigerant/low pressure side. (A/C system must be running on max. for at least 5 minutes prior to/and during re-charging)

X4!

IMO the first action you should take is to weight your MH when fully-loaded to actually know how much excess rear axle capacity is available.

My suggestion is to first determine the maximum torque rating of your transmission, that is usually the limiting factor for adding HP/torque. I once owned a 1996 Dodge CTD pickup, increased HP/torque. Three months later replaced the fried transmission.

Luckily this does not affect braking ability, just means the anti-lock feature doesn't work. When we bought this MH the anti-lock dash light would illuminate periodically. I asked my mechanic about finding the problem, he said, before spending money, use your pressure washer to straight-stream wash the opposite side inner wheels, allow the brakes to dry out, then take the MH for a test drive. He was right, the ABS light went out and now only comes on at initial startup. Road dirt, grease and oils can clog the tone ring slots enough to trigger the ABS dash light. It this doesn't work for your issue, you only lost some time.

This is the sad state of a nationwide toll reading system. Apparently each system is "defending its turf", consequently nothing is being advanced. The EZpass Group has more information. As Richard said, I- pass from IL seems to be the best state to deal with, and interacts with more states than any other. I investigated this a few years ago (2014), and IL seemed to offer the best "bang for my buck".

If you like this plan, hang onto it! It was discontinued May 21, you are grandfathered in:https://www.rvmobileinternet.com/guides/verizon-pudp-prepaid-unlimited-jetpack-data-plan/ I was just searching to sign up and found that link.

You may purchase Teflon film with adhesive on one side/tape; it is EXPENSIVE, so be prepared.

HWH jack cleaning: http://www.hwh.com/ml47149.pdf quote: "49. Is there something I can lubricate my jacks with to make them retract faster? How long should it take to completely retract my jacks? Lubricating a jack rod can help with retraction time but if lubrication is necessary, there is most likely a problem with the springs or the jack itself. The only thing HWH recommends to use is WD-40. Refer to the following link for jack maintenance information: ml47149.pdf. The following link gives detailed information about allowable jack retraction times: mi9553.pdf" Jack storage:"54. Can I store my coach with my jacks extended? Yes, this will not hurt the system. 55. How long can I leave my coach parked with the jacks extended? As long as you want. We recommend operating the system occasionally if possible." HWH jacks have stainless steel shafts. The cleaning is to remove dirt and grime to protect the seal from being damaged. WD40 is not great for many things, it is a good solvent/cleaner for several things when wiped away afterwards.

Color is no longer usable for determining which coolant to buy to top-off your system.

Once my air springs would not inflate, finally discovered I had interrupted the leveling procedure, which prevented air spring inflation. The solution was to re-level the coach, then store jacks. This must have reset something and allowed normal operation to resume. This points to the hyd jack system as the source of your problem too.

Revert has a definition. To refresh: In W10, click settings>recovery, then you see refresh is the top selection>get started. Yes it requires creating a new media, either USB or DVD. Don't forget you may also revert to W7 -within one month of the upgrade to W10, if for some reason that would be desirable. That ship has sailed for most of us.https://www.tenforums.com/tutorials/4090-refresh-windows-10-a.html I must have missed where apple entered this conversation. I've never had any dealing with mac so I'm out of that conversation.

In Settings/updates and security, you'll find a REFRESH button. Read the details closely before you push that button, make a current backup of your files and docs, pictures, AND write down every program on your computer, because when you refresh or download a new copy of W10 it does not save your stand-alone programs. I think there is a utube video of this process. I seem to remember it requires a minimum of 8Gb free space on a flashdrive or RW DVD discs. Personally I have a 1Tb Seagate hard drive for making a system image JIC I have a brain fart. A system image is useless when refreshing your copy of W10 or downloading a new copy. If you wish, W10 has the ability to revert to W8 (support ends 2024) if you don't like W10. Good luck!

My EWAG(assuming this product utilizes double-acting jacks) is; the hyd solenoids are not sealing completely for some reason. This allows hyd oil pressure to leak-back from the retract side and permit the jacks to drop/leak-down. Do your solenoids have a manual T handle to permit opening the solenoids for emergency retract operation? EDIT: from that same hot link I found this: https://equalizersystems.com/troubleshooting-documents/

Background; tires were 2 yrs old, inflated to sidewall max (85psi), hot TX day, street blacktop-sticky black tar look. I should have remembered this was a recipe for ruining tandem tires, when making a spot turn. IMO it induced such excessive sidewall stress that the belts were fatally damaged. I remembered seeing a guy over-stress his tandems to the point it broke the bead-seal on one tire, don't know any details, like tire pressure, etc. So, yes I consider it operator error on my part. As to warning statements; Chevrolet never has cautioned owners about pulling an empty flatbed semi out of the mud with a 1/2T 4X4, but Dad did and pulled the aftermarket 8" channel steel rear bumper off one side his pickup, and bent the frame behind the rear axle.(he was positioned on blacktop road) Now that WAS operator error! No warning label can predict recklessness, or the lapse of common sense.(inherited trait?)

A friend went to longer wiper blades, a year later the splines on the gearbox shaft stripped.

Operator error is the cause of most tire failures IMO. With a couple exceptions ST tires have a maximum continous speed rating of 65 MPH, most say to inflate to sidewall maximum pressure. I ruined 4 tires at the same time, I made a spot turn on a city street in Van, TX. in Aug. This broke the sidewall belts, shortly thereafter I noticed the 5er shaking, stopped to check things and found a football on the side of each tire. Now that was not the fault of the tire.

Somewhat related; keep an eye on rockauto.com for wiper blades. About 4 years ago I found a closeout on Anco 28"wiper blades @ $4 each. RainX had a sale 2 yrs ago, I bought 4, they have plastic frames so I'm down to 2 now, they don't last long. Went back to Anco's I had for spares.

I have the same solar panel, I consider it a toy, not practical for much.

Carl, I did the same when we traded our 40' 5er for this MH. When we loaded the MH we had a pickup truck bed full of excess/useless stuff, and the MH still had lots of empty compartments/cabinets-still has most of them. That sure turned on the light bulb. It was also the likely reason I had to switch to Sailun 16" LR G tires on the 5er.

I used double-sided exterior tape to mount mine on the rear and front cap in 2015 when I joined, they are still holding firm. If I ever want to remove them, dental floss makes a saw for the tape-but wear gloves.