rossboyer

I have the I-pass from Illinois. You have to post a deposit and set a minimum to redeposit. They do not charge a monthly fee as some others do. Good for most states east of Illinois like EZpass. Also have the one for Oklahoma. They don’t save much, but it is a lot easier going through vs the narrow toll booths in a motor home. One pass covers the motor home and my towed auto, counted as 4 axles.

Most do use blocks under the wheels if the wheels would be off the ground. Never let rear wheels be off ground or use blocks. Your brake will not hold. The front wheels could be off the ground for one night. I don’t make a practice of it. I do have 12”x16”x3.5” wood blocks to put under my jack pads. Keeps jacks from sinking in soft ground or asphalt. Some rallies require using unpainted blocks.

I think I had the same chassis, but different year. Is there a rubber bulb on the water separator? If so, it is the pump to pump the fuel into the filters. Or there could be a pump on the secondary filter. In either case use it to pump fuel. When it gets too hard to pump, try to start. Probably will have to repeat 4 or 5 time to get all the air out of the lines and filters.

You may have an electric or air horn, but for both there should be either a relay or valve. Try to locate and test at that point. Have another person press horn on steering wheel and see if you get voltage to actuate. If not the problem is between wheel and there. If you get voltage, either the valve or relay is probably bad.

That is very similar to my sliding windows. I’ll try to remember to bring my can of SlipIt to Minot, so you can try it out.

GasBuddy and Roadtrip are iPHONE apps that you can track fuel and maintenance. While GasBuddy is best at locating fuel at lowest cost and close to you, Roadtrip I better at tracking fuel usage and maintenance. Don’t know if they will run on your Mac, but they will on your iPhone.

Does the mirror have an aluminum frame? If so, you may want to use paraffin or beeswax. Slip It will protect and infuse into cast iron that is used to make many wood working machines. There is a spray version, but effectively you get 1/3 of the product at twice the price. Think you can look it up on the ROCKLER web site.

A product that use for items that need to slide is Slip It. It is a paste that looks like Vick’s salve. Really made for wood working equipment and wood on wood. Using a small palette knife, I put a little in the lower track on my sliding windows. Lasts about a year and then do it again.

When I used Vaseline, I had replaced the ‘O’ ring with a non rubber one that would not be damaged by Vaseline. Didn’t go on roof and do the other lubrication as stated above. I wasn’t having trouble with changing elevation or rotation. I would agree with using silicone.

Yes and No. You can go back to an old version if you had made a system restore copy.

Probably nothing to maintain, but when you wash roof, clean the surface of the panel. I do mine once a year. 5 watt will probably not keep up with the transmission drain on the chassis batteries, so don’t count on it. Plug in to shore power if you can.

They provide directions to maintain the crank mechanism. Basically just a little Vaseline to keep seal from getting hard which could then allow a leak to occur.

You are correct. It is net. Ad is on page 102 in the June issue.

I didn’t provide a link, just the address as was shown in their ad.

The ads in the back of Family RVing has: Shadepro.com, 800-328-5100.

No, but they are $10/pair. I just looked at the FMCA store on line and found them listed as Ladder Brackets.

FMCA store sells them. Just saw some at the Great Lakes Area rally, GLAMARAMA.

Doing so was the time I got the whole sandwich of heat exchangers clogged the worst. The roadway had been coated with a chemical to prevent freezing. Packed in like mortar.

You also need to clean from the engine side to clean the cac and transmission coolers. Be sure to use Simple Green Extreme which will not harm the aluminum radiator core.

Iowa is in the Midwest Area of FMCA. Contact gmilner@FMCA.com.

When you say “Midwest”, specially what area or states are you interested?

I did locate the product I mentioned above. It is Gel Gloss. It is available at Walmart, Lowe’s and Home Depot plus I am sure many other outlets.

I think we use Gel Coat which is used to polish fiberglass.

PROCEDURE FOR CLEANING REAR MOUNTED RADIATOR I have had trouble with overheating for about 10 years with my Caterpillar C-7 engine on Freightliner chassis. Several times technicians have checked, and no codes are indicated. Last year at the FMCA Convention in Gillette, WY, I again talked to the Freightliner service technicians. I explained my procedure for cleaning and was told I was doing everything correctly, but they wanted me to do two additional suggestions. 1. First: Using a 1.5-inch dia. hole saw, cut a hole in the lowest point of the fan shroud as close to the radiator as possible without hitting it. (If you do this, I suggest that you use about a 1/8-inch dia. drill bit first to create a pilot hole and then use the hole saw.) I will explain their second suggestion later. 2. My cleaning procedure. a. If necessary, remove floor at rear of motorhome to gain access to the Charge Air Cooler (CAC) and Radiator sandwich. b. In a 1.5-gal garden sprayer, mix 2 cups of Simple Green Extreme (The Simple Green Extreme will not attack aluminum.) and fill with warm water to create cleaning solution. This is very close to a 1 to 13 ratio or Simple Green Extreme to water. c. Between the fan and CAC, spray the CAC with the solution from inside the motorhome. d. Let set for about 5-10 minutes, but do not let it dry. e. Start engine and with a small nozzle on a garden hose, spray the CAC until solution is washed out the rear of the radiator. f. Turn off engine and repeat steps c, d, & e until all the solution is used. The foam exiting the rear of the radiator should be white by now. (Takes me about an hour.) g. Place a bucket under the hole you cut in fan shroud. h. From outside the motorhome using a pressure washer (1,600-1,800 psi) set to a fan spray and about 18 inches away for the radiator (You don’t want to bend the radiator fins), start at the upper left corner and work across the radiator. i. Move down and do the next section and repeat until the water collected in the bucket is clear. (I had to do mine for 3 one-hour sessions before water was clear.) Since doing the above procedure, I have traveled to several local rallies and to Arizona and back, about 4,000 miles. The highest temperature I had was on a five-mile 6% uphill grade between Phoenix and Flagstaff. The indicator was straight up on my non-numerical temperature gage. All the rest of my travel, the gage indicated about 10:00 or less. After a couple of weekend outings, I pressure wash from the outside as indicated above for about 10-15 minutes. I intend to do the steps to clean from the inside once a year before my trip to Arizona.

I went to a chapter rally last weekend and towed my 2019 Equinox LS. Mileage did not accumulate while towing. The directions in the owners manual were exactly correct to prepare for towing all wheels on the ground. We