rossboyer

Very specific instructions are provided. It is easier if you use ramps to raise the front wheels, but I didn’t even have to do that on my Equinox.

Our trip to Gillette and back we stopped at several FlyingJ’s. Found that they were competitive and with life Good Sam card, we got $0.08 off. The fuel was non-bio and #2. Many of the local ‘stores’ were 10-20% bio. We found that FlyingJ was higher on our trip back from Arizona last spring. All were bio fuel. We have found a couple of local stores near our overnight stops that sell non-bio #2.

Contact dball@FMCA.com to ask him to see if a better resolution may be obtained.

My experience with Lippert/Atwood is that at some point they will discontinue an item and you will not find any replacement. If you are going to keep your motor home for some time, I would buy a spare.

Was the light 12vdc or 120vac? If ac, look for a tripped breaker. Don’t forget breakers on the inverter.

I think you would find the information on a sticker on the wall at the drivers left shoulder. Also, I have seen them on the back wall of the closet or on tbe inside of a cabinet door. I had a Renegade 1999 on the same chassis, and I think towing capacity was 5,000 lbs. Wish I had my 3126E back. I was getting 10.6-11mpg. On my current C-7, only 6.7mpg.

And because it is heavier, the cost to insurer in Indiana is lower than our other vehicles due to the Equinox’s history of lower claims and better safety records. We are considering replacement of our 2011 with a new one, but probably will not as long as it continues to serve us well.

We have towed a Chevy Equinox for over 70,000 miles without issue. It has an automatic transmission, and I use a Roadmaster tow bar. I have wired the lights using Roadmaster’s module to add power. Yes, you will need an auxiliary braking system. The one I have depends on the air system of our coach; therefore, I cannot recommend a system for you. If you follow the manufacturer’s directions, you should not have problems towing an Equinox. Flat towing is so much easier than dolly towing, plus you have to find a place to store the dolly.

Temperature sensor for your charger. Probably built into inverter.

Look at www.monnit.com uses cellular temperature control/monitor.

I had to replace the little switch that controls the bedroom slide. I might have had one in my spare electronics stock. But I think Lowe’s had them also. Found it in the fan and lighting section.

I cannot get to Manual right now, but as I remember it is under the bed. Not much to it. Just takes a ratchet and socket. The hard part is to remove mattress. There are several screws to remove the wood plywood platform. Set it aside. You should be able to get to the works.

Don’t know where the OP is located, but if you call Xantrex and get a RMA number you can carry into the repair facility in Elkhart, Indiana. Otherwise, they want you to ship someplace in the state of Washington.

There are parasitic loads that will discharge your batteries if the charger is not working. Items like smoke or CO detectors, LED indicators etc. These will discharge your batteries. Once the voltage gets low enough, the charger can cannot recharge. They would need to be replaced. Don’t do it until you get the charger issue fixed.

You probably can get one at a lightning supply. They are used in halogen lighting products. I just threw away 10 of them when I rewired our churches parking lot lights.

I have installed SeaLevel II on two different coaches. Best system available. My control panel is in the bathroom. That was the best location to get to 12 vdc and access to below the floor and tanks. Just followed water lines. I used new wire which left the old idiot lights active, but you can use the old wire, also.

Yes, but it was a ceramic ag3. I just thought that vibration broke it.

I don’t have the same coach as you have, but mine are in the electrical bay on drivers side. They are mounted on the back wall of the bay behind several large cables. I had called Fleetwood to see if there were any fuses for the slideouts and was told no. Found fuses on the controller boards. One was physically broken. Probably vibration.

We haven’t done it for about 12 years. As I remember from the east headed west there is a steep grade. Just stop and shift down to a low gear maybe 2nd or 3rd. You can start low and go up if needed. Save your brakes that way. The west end is fairly level. I will say that we were not very impressed, but it is worth the drive since you are going that way.

The OP didn’t say what was wrong with the Atwood jacks. While some whole jacks are available to replace, the power control board is not. I finally gave up soldering to the etches to connect the control wires. Replaced yesterday with HWH. Cost was more thane OP paid, but I have had HWH before and would not replace my Atwood jacks with Lippert/Atwood jack system.

Update: I had the HWH automatic system installed. Stuart’s Service did a great job of installation. I did find out that having HWH systems installed at Moscow or Stuart’s is the same basic cost, but Moscow is higher due to higher taxes. Total cost at Stuart’s was $6,517.10. Chuck Stuart told me that a Tiffin motor home from Texas will be in next week to replace their levelegs with HWH. I would recommend Stuart’s Service anytime you need jack systems serviced.

Thank you, Pamela.

Not sure what switch you call the DC switch? But it sounds like your batteries are low. Has this aways occurred or just started? If always, i would put a 5mfd capacitor across the power leads of the pump.

How do I search for my posts?

I would find a person that familiar with testing electrical circuits to help you and explain as they do the testing. In that way you can learn to do it yourself another time. When something doesn’t work, it frustrating to all of us.