rossboyer

There are parasitic loads that will discharge your batteries if the charger is not working. Items like smoke or CO detectors, LED indicators etc. These will discharge your batteries. Once the voltage gets low enough, the charger can cannot recharge. They would need to be replaced. Don’t do it until you get the charger issue fixed.

You probably can get one at a lightning supply. They are used in halogen lighting products. I just threw away 10 of them when I rewired our churches parking lot lights.

I have installed SeaLevel II on two different coaches. Best system available. My control panel is in the bathroom. That was the best location to get to 12 vdc and access to below the floor and tanks. Just followed water lines. I used new wire which left the old idiot lights active, but you can use the old wire, also.

Yes, but it was a ceramic ag3. I just thought that vibration broke it.

I don’t have the same coach as you have, but mine are in the electrical bay on drivers side. They are mounted on the back wall of the bay behind several large cables. I had called Fleetwood to see if there were any fuses for the slideouts and was told no. Found fuses on the controller boards. One was physically broken. Probably vibration.

We haven’t done it for about 12 years. As I remember from the east headed west there is a steep grade. Just stop and shift down to a low gear maybe 2nd or 3rd. You can start low and go up if needed. Save your brakes that way. The west end is fairly level. I will say that we were not very impressed, but it is worth the drive since you are going that way.

The OP didn’t say what was wrong with the Atwood jacks. While some whole jacks are available to replace, the power control board is not. I finally gave up soldering to the etches to connect the control wires. Replaced yesterday with HWH. Cost was more thane OP paid, but I have had HWH before and would not replace my Atwood jacks with Lippert/Atwood jack system.

Update: I had the HWH automatic system installed. Stuart’s Service did a great job of installation. I did find out that having HWH systems installed at Moscow or Stuart’s is the same basic cost, but Moscow is higher due to higher taxes. Total cost at Stuart’s was $6,517.10. Chuck Stuart told me that a Tiffin motor home from Texas will be in next week to replace their levelegs with HWH. I would recommend Stuart’s Service anytime you need jack systems serviced.

Thank you, Pamela.

Not sure what switch you call the DC switch? But it sounds like your batteries are low. Has this aways occurred or just started? If always, i would put a 5mfd capacitor across the power leads of the pump.

How do I search for my posts?

I would find a person that familiar with testing electrical circuits to help you and explain as they do the testing. In that way you can learn to do it yourself another time. When something doesn’t work, it frustrating to all of us.

With a stack or without a stack, people have died from carbon monoxide poisoning. But in general it is safer to not use the stack for the occupants, but may not be for your neighbor. At one rally the generators running around us caused out CO detector to alarm at 7:00 pm with all the windows closed. We had to leave and come back at 11:00 pm when generators had the shut down.

When I said under the bed, I didn’t mean to raise the mattress. Where is the panel that has all your circuit breakers? That where we need to know if power is getting out of the 30 amp breaker to feed your inverter.

That is the same tank my truck tire service uses.

The one GFI that is working I think feeds the outlet at the dinette and the heater for the engine. There should be a switch to turn the heater on and off. Make sure it is off. It’s load is high and with other items on the 30 amp inverter circuit could trip one or more of the inverter breakers. My xantrex has three breakers. One is a small round white button. I have never had to reset this one but if it is sticking out it needs to be pushed in to reset it. There are two more toggle type circuit breakers on the front. These are the ones that have tripped for me. Check those to be sure one or the other needs to turned off and back on.

The Xantrex inverter doesn’t have to be turned on at the front panel when plugged into shore power. If the first test I listed above fails, look for the 30 amp breaker in the main power panel. Mine is under the bed. Take the cover off and use a meter set to ac 250 volts or more. Check the screw terminal on the 30 amp breaker. I know you said that you had turned them all off and back on, but that doesn’t mean that the breaker is good. It wouldn’t be the first one that has failed.

The Xantrex inverter doesn’t have to be turned on at the front panel when plugged into shore power. If the first test I listed above fails, look for the 30 amp breaker in the main power panel. Mine is under the bed. Take the cover off and use a meter set to ac 250 volts or more. Check the screw terminal on the 30 amp breaker. I know you said that you had turned them all off and back on, but that doesn’t mean that the breaker is good. It wouldn’t be the first one that has failed.

As Wolfe10 stated, Xantrex inverter doesn’t have to be turned on at the front panel when plugged into shore power. If the first test I listed above fails, look for the 30 amp breaker in the main power panel. Mine is under the bed. Take the cover off and use a meter set to ac 250 volts or more. Check between the screw terminal on the 30 amp breaker and a bare point on the panel. I know you said that you had turned them all off and back on, but that doesn’t mean that the breaker is good. It wouldn’t be the first one that has failed. If there is any power there check the incoming power wires at the top of the panel. Maybe your power cord has a break. If no power there check the outlet again.

One time I had an outlet fail. It was the second in the string of outlets powered through the inverter. The first check I would do is to see if the inverter is passing power. While plugged into shore power, see if power is leaving the inverter. If not the transfer relay in the inverter has probably failed. You may have to test this inside the inverter ir the wires leaving the inverter. If you do have power then check the outlet on either side of the bed. If power there go to outlet in bedroom tv compartment. This the outlet failed on my coach. If power present, try the outlets along the passenger side wall. The outlets used are those low quality crimp on type that are subject to failure.

Sounds like a workable solution. I do prefer the pancake compressor. In fact I have two. One is in coach and the other operates tools in my woodworking shop. If one would fail, I have a fallback until I get the other repaired or replaced. There is no one solution. What works for one may not be what another would like. Several different solutions have been presented that work for the one that replied.

Having had both plus OEM, I think Bilstein have a hard ride and OEM are too soft. I have had Koni on my present and previous coach and the ride is good. I would use Koni again.

The tire shop I go to uses 1 inch, because most of their business is servicing trucks. But all of our preferences don’t really address the OP issues. Even my preferred compressor isn’t battery powered. I did have a battery powered compressor that took 45 minuets to add 5 pounds to one of my tires. It worked, but I don’t think it would have filled a tire that had gone flat. That is why I use what I have now.

Also, you may find a GFI outlet in the wet bay ceiling. It is used to put a light bulb or heater in very cold weather to prevent freezing.

The buttons are in the center of the outlet. One is test and the other is reset. Possibly you are looking at the non-GFI outlet that is in the same bin.