rossboyer

With a stack or without a stack, people have died from carbon monoxide poisoning. But in general it is safer to not use the stack for the occupants, but may not be for your neighbor. At one rally the generators running around us caused out CO detector to alarm at 7:00 pm with all the windows closed. We had to leave and come back at 11:00 pm when generators had the shut down.

When I said under the bed, I didn’t mean to raise the mattress. Where is the panel that has all your circuit breakers? That where we need to know if power is getting out of the 30 amp breaker to feed your inverter.

That is the same tank my truck tire service uses.

The one GFI that is working I think feeds the outlet at the dinette and the heater for the engine. There should be a switch to turn the heater on and off. Make sure it is off. It’s load is high and with other items on the 30 amp inverter circuit could trip one or more of the inverter breakers. My xantrex has three breakers. One is a small round white button. I have never had to reset this one but if it is sticking out it needs to be pushed in to reset it. There are two more toggle type circuit breakers on the front. These are the ones that have tripped for me. Check those to be sure one or the other needs to turned off and back on.

The Xantrex inverter doesn’t have to be turned on at the front panel when plugged into shore power. If the first test I listed above fails, look for the 30 amp breaker in the main power panel. Mine is under the bed. Take the cover off and use a meter set to ac 250 volts or more. Check the screw terminal on the 30 amp breaker. I know you said that you had turned them all off and back on, but that doesn’t mean that the breaker is good. It wouldn’t be the first one that has failed.

The Xantrex inverter doesn’t have to be turned on at the front panel when plugged into shore power. If the first test I listed above fails, look for the 30 amp breaker in the main power panel. Mine is under the bed. Take the cover off and use a meter set to ac 250 volts or more. Check the screw terminal on the 30 amp breaker. I know you said that you had turned them all off and back on, but that doesn’t mean that the breaker is good. It wouldn’t be the first one that has failed.

As Wolfe10 stated, Xantrex inverter doesn’t have to be turned on at the front panel when plugged into shore power. If the first test I listed above fails, look for the 30 amp breaker in the main power panel. Mine is under the bed. Take the cover off and use a meter set to ac 250 volts or more. Check between the screw terminal on the 30 amp breaker and a bare point on the panel. I know you said that you had turned them all off and back on, but that doesn’t mean that the breaker is good. It wouldn’t be the first one that has failed. If there is any power there check the incoming power wires at the top of the panel. Maybe your power cord has a break. If no power there check the outlet again.

One time I had an outlet fail. It was the second in the string of outlets powered through the inverter. The first check I would do is to see if the inverter is passing power. While plugged into shore power, see if power is leaving the inverter. If not the transfer relay in the inverter has probably failed. You may have to test this inside the inverter ir the wires leaving the inverter. If you do have power then check the outlet on either side of the bed. If power there go to outlet in bedroom tv compartment. This the outlet failed on my coach. If power present, try the outlets along the passenger side wall. The outlets used are those low quality crimp on type that are subject to failure.

Sounds like a workable solution. I do prefer the pancake compressor. In fact I have two. One is in coach and the other operates tools in my woodworking shop. If one would fail, I have a fallback until I get the other repaired or replaced. There is no one solution. What works for one may not be what another would like. Several different solutions have been presented that work for the one that replied.

Having had both plus OEM, I think Bilstein have a hard ride and OEM are too soft. I have had Koni on my present and previous coach and the ride is good. I would use Koni again.

The tire shop I go to uses 1 inch, because most of their business is servicing trucks. But all of our preferences don’t really address the OP issues. Even my preferred compressor isn’t battery powered. I did have a battery powered compressor that took 45 minuets to add 5 pounds to one of my tires. It worked, but I don’t think it would have filled a tire that had gone flat. That is why I use what I have now.

Also, you may find a GFI outlet in the wet bay ceiling. It is used to put a light bulb or heater in very cold weather to prevent freezing.

The buttons are in the center of the outlet. One is test and the other is reset. Possibly you are looking at the non-GFI outlet that is in the same bin.

I have used this setup for about 10 years for my motor home to fill to 110 pounds. It isn’t volume that is needed. It is pressure. The DeWalt and Porter Cable are almost identical. I use tank pressure to fill not the adjustable low pressure. If a tire is flat, you need roadside service that has the proper equipment to remount the tire.

My 37U has two GFI’s on the same circuit that feeds 14 outlets. I think they did that because most times the one inside would be the most likely to need reset. The one in the bin would most likely trip when using something outside. The one in the bin would trip when it would rain on the extension cord connected to our golf cart charger. I do know this is not the way GFI’s should be wired.

I have a 37U from Fleetwood. In the third from the front bin on the passenger side is another GFI in the ceiling of that bin. Try resetting it.

I use a Porter Cable that will do 150 pounds. You do need to plug it in. I leave it in a bin and use a 50 foot 1/4 inch very flexible hose to get all my tires. Most of the time you need the higher pressure which allows faster filling or topping off. But you may not have enough storage space for it.

My motor home has had an overheating issue for several years. I had only been cleaning from the inside; but at the Gillette Convention, the Freightliner tech said I was doing it correctly. But he stated that the dirt I was washing out was collecting in the bottom of the fan shroud. When dry that dirt was clogging the radiator. He wanted me to do two more things. Cut a 1-1/2” hole in the bottom of the fan shroud as close to the radiator as possible without hitting it. Clean from the inside as I had been doing then from the outside using a pressure washer set in a fan pattern, not stream, and from about 2 feet start at the upper left corner and work to center then upper right corner to center. I put a bucket under the hole and was very surprised about how much dirt was collected in the bucket. I cleaned with the power washer ($89.00 1,650 psi) for an hour until I got tired. Came back and did another hour. Quit and did another hour until I got clear water in the bucket. I drove to a chapter rally and for 50 miles drove st 70 mph. Before I could not drive for 35 miles at 62-65 mph without the check engine light coming on. When I returned home, I cleaned with the power washer again for 2 one hour sessions. Again the bucket finally had clear water. I have decided that after every short trip, I will pressure wash from the outside, and twice a year I will clean from the inside. Hopefully, my experience will help you.

I have had two sets if Goodyear tires on two different coaches. Both sets cupped about 40,000 miles. Switched to a different brand, no cupping.

Check the Benefits Tab at FMCA.com. There is medical travel insurance available for you to purchase.

Thank you for checking.

While it does take some time to install base plates, the instructions with very good pictures that Roadmaster provides does make it a do it yourself project. I have done it on three different automobiles. The last did require drilling one hole on each side, but it wasn’t a difficult task. Wiring the lights is a much more difficult task just because of all the inside trim that must be removed and replaced to get the wires hidden.

When we are in Arizona in the winter, SAM’s Club has a good sale on 6 volt golf cart deep cycle batteries. They seem to last about 4 years even though I keep distilled water level maintained. In AZ the Club is about 2 miles away, but in Indiana the Club is 30 miles away. So we don’t get there as often as AZ.

Now the rest of the story: I just finished driving 70 miles with outside temp 85 degrees of which 50 miles was on interstate at the speed of 70 mph. My Freightliner dash gauge does not show temp in degrees, but the range is divided into 4 equal divisions with the "N" of "NORMAL" about midway in the second division. The temp never got to the "O" in "NORMAL". Therefore, I think the problem is fixed. As Freightliner suggested, I have not put tape over the hole I put in the bottom of the fan shroud, because I though when I get back home on Monday, I will pressure clean again. In the future, I plan to clean from the inside twice a year. I have always done at least once before going to Arizona and then some times when I get back. Also, think I will pressure wash from the outside about every other trip. Maybe it will not take 3 hours of washing if done frequently. In about 10 days, I will be doing a 150 mile trip that should test the results again. I am getting my Atwood Level Leg jacks replaced with HWH fully automatic jacks. The 5th power control board has failed and is no longer available. Stewart's Service on CR 6 W in Elkhart will be installing. They have done jacks for me before on two other coaches and do quality work.

Highlighted text, copied, pasted into a Word file and printed. Other than formatting, the text is readable.