rossboyer

Best thing you could do. Those press to connect outlets are not what I consider to be quality. I had the same problem with an outlet for the TV in the bedroom.

The cloth I use was smoother than the canoe. Maybe because I coated the cloth with thick coats of the epoxy.

Not actually knowing where the outlet is located in your mh, have you checked the outlet with a meter. Some microwaves have internal fuses that will make them ‘dead’ and it’s not a problem with the incoming power.

Years ago I did this to repair a fiberglass canoe that during a storm had been blown off my trailer. Worked very well. My son is still using it. You can buy the materials at automotive parts stores. We have one in our town that specializes in body repair supplies. The items are glass mat, two part epoxy and plastic putty knife to apply. Put on a coat of the epoxy, while wet apply glass mat. Coat one or two more times with the epoxy. When dry and hard, sand edges smooth. Tint can be added to the epoxy as desired.

Unless your wife is running the washing machine.

My LED system was from Roadmaster which was a lot easier than diode wiring I did on my first two towers.

Please be very careful about using diodes. Several manufacturers are voiding the vehicle warranty if you connect using diodes. I just bought a 2019 Equinox and my local RV dealer and Roadmaster stated to not wire into the auto’s rear lights. I used LED system that did not use the auto’s electrical system. Roadmaster and Chevrolet also stated to not use a rock shield in front of the Equinox. I assume to not block air flow, but the reason was not stated. Both also stated to use a charge wire to keep the battery up. Not sure why this wouldn’t void warranty, also.

I just used Foxfire on my iPhone and it worked well.

Reading the description of the box as being 120/240, I think the 50 amp is a double pole main breaker. The mess of wires below the breakers concerns me more. Possibly, this is the cause of ‘hot skin’ situation the OP mentioned.

Besides turning on and off, can you see where the wires are routed? I have a switch that was added to be able to turn on the tire pressure system so ignition doesn’t have to be on.

Many RV’s have the same parts. Possibly, if you ask specific questions, someone may be able to answer your question that doesn’t have exactly the same RV.

Why not call FMCAssist. While a transport of a disabled RV is not covered, concierge service/information is. They probably can provide information.

On ours, I could remove the camera and plug it directly into the back of the monitor to test. If it works, you know it is the cable or connectors. Maybe yours would too. If you do remove camera, tie a cord onto the cable before you disconnect. If the cable falls down between the end cap and RV wall, it is difficult to locate. I have had to replace 3 or 4 monitors and 3 cables in 20 years.

Mine had seven years and 87,000+ miles without incident.

If it is like my 2006, it is under dash in the center. Should be two fuse blocks. Use a 12volt light tester. I think I got mine at Harbor Freight. Alligator clip on one end, clips to ground. Use the pointed probe to check fuses. If the fuse is good the light will be bright on both contacts in the fuse. If only one side lights, fuse is bad. If neither side lights there a power feed control elsewhere.

When you say regular, is it down stream from a GFI outlet? Also, try charging your batteries with an external charger with the RV unplugged and inverter off. After charge, turn off all breakers in RV except main and inverter. There should be two breakers on the side of the inverter to turn off. Unplug or turn off all loads on the inverter. Plug back in as you did before in a non GFI outlet. If problem present, there is a problem in your main shore cable, transfer box, wiring to inverter or something is causing an excess charge load. If OK to this point, turn on inverter. If Ok, turn on one of the two breakers on the side of the inverter. If ok, turn off that breaker and turn on the second. If one of the circuits causes the problem, you have isolated which is the problem circuit. If ok turn both on. I have 18 outlets on one breaker and had a problem. Went midway and with shore and inverter power off, I disconnected the outlet. Turned back on. No problem, the problem is in last half. If problem present, it’s in the first half. Keep dividing until you find the problem. Mine was a burned wire inside the third of those cheap RV outlets from the inverter. Installed an outlet box and home style 20 amp outlet with screw side wire clamps, not push in style. Trouble shooting an electrical problem takes a lot of time a patience. Good luck.

We leave Aug 5th for Minot. Three nights with reservations. Two are Pass Port at half price, one is full price, but all are full hook up. 350 to just under 400 miles per day. If we were not constrained in our schedule, we would travel without reservations. We don’t have reservations for our return home. May travel different route. We have a 38 foot motor home and tow an Equinox. I have always been able to get big enough sites. Even at Rocky Mountain NP that states 35 ft max. When the restrictions seem to be tight I do make a reservation stating our needs.

I have the I-pass from Illinois. You have to post a deposit and set a minimum to redeposit. They do not charge a monthly fee as some others do. Good for most states east of Illinois like EZpass. Also have the one for Oklahoma. They don’t save much, but it is a lot easier going through vs the narrow toll booths in a motor home. One pass covers the motor home and my towed auto, counted as 4 axles.

Most do use blocks under the wheels if the wheels would be off the ground. Never let rear wheels be off ground or use blocks. Your brake will not hold. The front wheels could be off the ground for one night. I don’t make a practice of it. I do have 12”x16”x3.5” wood blocks to put under my jack pads. Keeps jacks from sinking in soft ground or asphalt. Some rallies require using unpainted blocks.

I think I had the same chassis, but different year. Is there a rubber bulb on the water separator? If so, it is the pump to pump the fuel into the filters. Or there could be a pump on the secondary filter. In either case use it to pump fuel. When it gets too hard to pump, try to start. Probably will have to repeat 4 or 5 time to get all the air out of the lines and filters.

You may have an electric or air horn, but for both there should be either a relay or valve. Try to locate and test at that point. Have another person press horn on steering wheel and see if you get voltage to actuate. If not the problem is between wheel and there. If you get voltage, either the valve or relay is probably bad.

That is very similar to my sliding windows. I’ll try to remember to bring my can of SlipIt to Minot, so you can try it out.

GasBuddy and Roadtrip are iPHONE apps that you can track fuel and maintenance. While GasBuddy is best at locating fuel at lowest cost and close to you, Roadtrip I better at tracking fuel usage and maintenance. Don’t know if they will run on your Mac, but they will on your iPhone.

Does the mirror have an aluminum frame? If so, you may want to use paraffin or beeswax. Slip It will protect and infuse into cast iron that is used to make many wood working machines. There is a spray version, but effectively you get 1/3 of the product at twice the price. Think you can look it up on the ROCKLER web site.

A product that use for items that need to slide is Slip It. It is a paste that looks like Vick’s salve. Really made for wood working equipment and wood on wood. Using a small palette knife, I put a little in the lower track on my sliding windows. Lasts about a year and then do it again.