elkhartjim

The false positive readings have driven me nuts with the TST systems, especially on the toad. When the sensor stops reading from one position and then starts again in 5 -20 minutes and alternates on all four wheels is unnerving to say the least and when I say "stops working", its like the wheel fell off. They may work fine one day and then not the next. I understand the difference in pressure reading from an accurate gauge but when the sensor indicates 40# when the actual gauge pressure on a rear tire is 85# is not acceptable to me. Once the pressure increases after driving a few miles the sensor pressure may or may not jump to 90-95#. Like you, Bizsmith, I'm more concerned with the toad having a tire issue.

There are numerous discussions on leaking windshields in Winny motorhomes on this and other RV forums. http://community.fmca.com/topic/3592-leaking-windshields-on-winnebago-vectra/?hl=windshield#entry21583

There is a long thread in the Towing Section of the forum discussing the problems associated with towing the Jeep GRAND Cherokee. I would make sure there are differences in the transfer cases of the Jeep Cherokee and the GRAND Cherokee.

I mentioned this in my post and I will reiterate - TST has been very responsive to my needs and not one time have they attempted to deliver some sort of rhetorical corporate nonsense. We are home as of a few hours ago and my next step will be to reprogram my system using a new monitor. I'm still not convinced how an external sensor be it a TST or any other manufacturer can whirl around in 20 degree temp and read 167 degrees. I'm curious, has anyone had a tire sensor read 50-60 degrees above ambient temperature?

I purchased the TST system prior to our trip. We've been 6472 miles and we're still 155 miles from home. I've turned the system off. TST has good customer service but their product has been unbelievable bad. They have sent me sensors on three different occasions, two monitors and I'm still having issues. On my Jeep toad they worked for several weeks and now I will be driving and its like a wheel fell off. No pressure, no nothing. A few miles later it magically reattaches I guess because it starts monitoring again. At least I don't lose the same wheel all the time, it alternates wheels. The motorhome is another situation altogether. One of the faulty sensors magically started working before I received the replacement but thankfully I had the replacement because a different sensor quit working. Another of the replacement sensors worked for several days and now it reads 26# until it decides to read 88# (correct pressure) but then drop back to 45#. I've not had this much worry over tires in the 25 years I've rved. I've checked the air so many times with the guage that every 2-3 weeks I add air because I always lose some air when I check. The sensors are off by 2-9#'s. I can live with that because I will monitor any sudden drop in pressure. As for as temp goes, when we were in Glacier and it was cold, the tire temp was cold...duh. When we were back in Texas the temp was much warmer...Duh! As far as I'm concerned, thats just a sales gimmick. How in the dickens can an external sensor sense tire temperature? It senses the ambient at best. Rant over except I intend to have a long conversation with TST after we get home. Nobody should need to stop and check tire pressure 4-6 times a day because of a stupid buzzer and a flashing red light. BTW Huffy, I spent a bunch more than you did.

I have four corner weights, fully loaded with clothes, supplies, full water (I normally carry a half tank), full propane and full fuel. I added 5% to the heaviest weight on each axle when I calculated my pressures. Interestingly enough, until recently I had only axle weights to calculate from and after having the four corners weighed, I'm running the exact same pressures. I was glad to find out my axle weights are within 210# side to side so I didn't need to shift "stuff" around. Of course the "stuff" that would need to be shifted is me.

Take warm clothes and be prepared for depressive sights. The weather may not be your friend during late Sept early Oct. The economy has certainly taken its toll on the UP. We stayed in St Ignes about a month ago at the Tiki Rv Park (Passport America). We of course drove across the Mackinac Bridge and visited Mackinac Island. I believe some campgrounds start closing in early October so take that in to consideration also. Have a safe trip.

Are you looking for chassis maintenance or house? You don't indicate what your chassis is but if its Freightliner, I would recommend planing your travels to be near Gaffney, SC once a year. They can do everything including the generator, transmission, engine, alignment,etc. If its the house side, one CW may be great and the next one terrible. Like Rich alluded to, when you're in a particular area, post on the forum where you are and ask for referrals.

Does it cool adequately when the slides are out? If thats the case, you have an air balance issue, however, if it doesn't cool period, sounds like one or more of the rooftop units is not cooling properly. True, the engine will create additional heat load, but not enough to notice. I can stand on the carpeted engine cover barefoot and it doesn't feel warm much less hot. I would think with the slides in and three units cooling you should easily lower the inside temp by 20-25 degrees.

I'm sorry John this thread has turned into a how do you dump air in a Monaco thread and gotten away from your simple question of to dump or not to dump and I hope you got the answer to your question. I'm sorry if I contributed to the hijacking of your thread.

I wonder why its necessary to replace air bags? Could it be they begin to crack or as they age, they begin to harden and not seal? Granted, fittings and valves and any other connection can leak. I'm not positive if my slow leaks are from the air bags not sealing or if it could be one of the dozens of connection points leaking. Back to JohnJill's question - as Herman stated earlier, dump the air before leveling to lower the coach so the levelers don't need to lift as much/high. When placing the motorhome in storage, dump or don't dump, it makes no difference because in a day, week or month, the air bags will be deflated - whatever the reason.

I don't think it matters. If you don't release the air, over time they will leak enough to deflate. My 08 that I've owned since 07 will leak down in 5-6 days. Regardless, I release the air after driving in the storage building.

I drove I-94 today from Fargo to Bismark, ND and they have the best highways so far we've driven on. There are still several miles of construction but the open lanes are really good. Of course they've had a little windfall from that stuff underground. Walmart is offering $12.20/hr for night stockers and there are more help wanted signs posted here than I've seen in years. Diesel is $3.709 at Sam's with easy in and out for our 38' towing a 4-door Jeep.

We have driven almost 3000 miles of our planned 6000 mile trip from the Houston area across to South Carolina, up through Tennessee, Kentucky, Ohio, Michigan, Wisconsin and Minnesota. This is on interstate, state highways and some secondary roads; not until we crossed the border into Canada did we encounter what I would call really good roads. Our highway infrastructure is shameful compared to what we have experienced in Canada. Not to make this political, but what happened to the billions of dollars allocated for the "shovel ready projects"?

FYI...GM Engineer has not logged in since Nov, 2013.

Imakin, do a forum search and you'll get lots of info. The short answer is you need four things: a tv, a satellite dish of some sort, a satellite receiver and a satellite subscription to either Dish or Direct. You probably have three of the four and only need some kind of dish. I take one of my Direct receivers from the s&b to use in the motorhome which has a roof mounted satellite antennae.

I suggest a call to Fleetwood customer service with you Fleetwood ID number.

I met some Texas oil patch gate guarders while I was at Gafney a few weeks ago. They earn enough working during the winter to allow them to travel north during the summer months and pays for their annual maintenance costs also. They loved it. She said they had over 200 vehicles per day through their ranch gate.

The newer (2008, I believe) Jeep Wrangler/Rubicon models are all towable with the transfer case in neutral and the transmission in first (standard) or park (automatic) and the key in the off/lock position, key removed, doors locked. The transmission software issue is with the Jeep Cherokee models only. I've successfully towed my 2006 Jeep Wrangler automatic with the transfer case in neutral, the auto trans in park and the key in the unlocked position for 6000+ miles. I'm currently at 2500+ miles on a trip towing the 2014 Jeep as described above with no problems. I would suggest joining the Jeep Wrangler forum for more info than you could possibly ever need.

The fueling pumps in the truck aisles fill very fast. If you're experiencing over flow its most likely caused from the high flow rate of the pump. I usually keep the automatic nozzle set for the slowest (lowest) flow rate and usually know when I'm nearing full so I'll slow it down even more.

I use 303 Aerospace Protectant. Join the Jeep Wrangler forum if you want to be a real jeeples. Smile and wave...

I'm on a trip now and towed our 2014 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Sport over 2000 miles without disconnecting the battery. I place the transfer case in neutral and the transmission in park with the key off, doors locked and the key in my pocket. My tail lights are separate bulbs and I have the M&G Engineering braking system therefore I'm not using any voltage from the Jeep battery. Also, I've towed as long as three days, 600 miles without ever starting the Jeep. My manual doesn't say anything about disconnecting the battery. I also have a 2006 Jeep Wrangle Unlimited Sport that I sometimes tow. I need to leave the key in the unlocked position for the steering wheel to be unlocked. I've towed it over 6000 miles without any battery issues. If you are a member of the Jeep Wrangler Forum, you will notice comments regularly about the Jeep owners manuals being inaccurate on various subjects. The most important thing: Now that you're a Jeep owner you need to remember to wave when meeting another Jeep...don't offend us by not being friendly. You'll soon find out, being a Jeeples is almost being in a cult.

I was going to suggest a call to Freightliner also but then realized they are going to tell you what you don't want to hear. My 2008 XCS chassis hitch is rated for 10,000# with a 1000# tongue weight. It is a weight distribution hitch. What is the GCWR for your chassis? I think you would exceed tongue weight, tow weight and GCWR. As Brett suggested, find a home engineer to "design" a hitch because I don't think you will find any other engineer to sanction all your desires.

Did Camping World resolve your issue? I understand being frustrated not having phone calls returned in a timely manner but it happens. At least they called you back, just not as quickly as you would like. My doctor never calls back as quickly as I would like for him too either and I don't know who to write. Google Camping World for contact information. I just Googled Winnebago Industries and found that Randy J Potts is the CEO. If you go to the Winnebago website, you can get contact info on the entire management team. As far as the rat issue goes, when you leave a vehicle at any dealer, garage, tire dealer, etc and sign a service repair order you have released them of any liability issues. Read the fine print and you will see its in everyone of them. I hope you feel better after writing your letters.

Dang, Brett, and all this time I was thinking Texas was considered international by some!