dickandlois

Frank, Welcome to the FMCA Forum ! From your information, it sounds like your Coach and generator engines get a good work out on a regular bases. So you do not need to worry about a stale gas issue. Regarding MMO. I have used it in the Gas powered equipment that I own and for the Engines on the small equipment we own. It is a product that has been around for years as a top cylinder lubricant and a number if aircraft owners use it in there engines. The mix ratio is generally 1 to 2 oz. per gallon. Frank, is your engine a 454 or the 8.1 L ? Rich.

sklonsdale, Welcome to the FMCA Forum! Question: You posted that you have a 454 engine. In 2001 chassis where using the 8.1 L engine and the OEM Cam and Crank sensors are prone to failing. Take a look at the Vin number and search the web and see if its on the NTSB recall list, if the Crank sensor is on recall. Then it should be covered in whole or part by GM. Hope you have your copy of the repair order !!! Rich.

Lucille, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Look up the uses for 20 mule train Borax. The original formula! Should the stain be just from water and no other item(s) mixed in it might do the job. see if the information gives you a good mixture for the application. Now, should you decide to try it, apply the solution to a out of sight small area; like in the closet area to see how it reacts to your ceiling material first. Rich.

Planocat, I did a little looking around the web regarding the ISL and the wrist pin failing. From Firehouse.com. It looks like it was an issue with engines from late 2005 and early 2006. an oiling issue in regards to the wrist pin. Rich.

DocKC: Welcome to the FMCA Forum! Please post the model and make of the inverter / charger that was installed in the coach. Then, we can better analyze your issue. Rich

Carl, That 0 makes a difference. The 300 series is a different animal! The problem and a 300 series had me stumped, but I never say never when it come to what might be in one of the coaches. This is a link to a manual that should cover the 3000 series. Look at the electrical section of the manual, it describes how to reset the automatic function. Page 10 and 11 cover things well and your unit is a 12 volt setup. http://www.dometicsanitation.com/QBank/EPiServer/SeaLand/Manuals/Toilets/VacuFlush-3000-Series_6455.pdf Rich.

Carl, Welcome to the FMCA Forum! This is a link to your model toilet, if you do not have this information. Must admit that I need to look it over myself, before offering any thoughts regarding you issue. https://edometic.com/allusr/pdoc.nsf/vc/96ECAD6A69C9A39785257A7D005F085D/$FILE/600346504%20Dometic%20300%20series%20RV%20toilet%20EN%20manual.pdf Rich.

Frank, I stumbled into this link that pictures the interior of your model and year coach, might help should interior items be removed. http://safarirv.tripod.com/ Rich.

Frank, Welcome to the FMCA Forum ! This is a link to some information on circuit tracing equipment, that one can use trace the wiring from the power source or from the end point. Something from the link might prove to be in your price range and cover all the applications one would need to reverse engineer the wiring layout. http://www.mitchellinstrument.com/electrical-test-and-measurement/circuit-tracers.html This is a link to the Tempo line of testers. It is divided into different categories, per application. There are a number of different stiles. I use the 508 series listed in this link. A little difficult when looking for or testing Data cables, only because of its design. Most of the applications Needed in my case is DC and AC power and control wiring so it fits the bill very well with out breaking the bank. http://www.lashen.com/vendors/tempo/manuals/ Rich.

Hey Cowboy, I do not know who is older but remember-- your as young as you feel. So if your doing what you where at 35, then your just a little younger then me !!! LOL Have a great New Year and we are still working on the Perry date! By the way have you cleaned out your personal mail BOX ?? Rich.

Computerguy, Welcome to the FMCA Forum! Regarding your headlights: The one big advantage to the old sealed beam style lights is that they do not pit and fog up like the newer plastic lamp housings and you get a nice clean piece of glass when one is replaced. The other plus from my point of view is the adjusters are far easier to set and durable. Thank You for your service!! Rich.

My Greeting goes to all of you that are part of this forum and for your interest and contributions. I do need to pass along a very special thank you to those who have served the country or there Country and there communities in the Military, as Police Officers, Firefighters, EMT/ Ambulance drivers and anyone that gives of there time to the many fine organizations that make a country truly one of a kind. God Bless you all !!!! Rich.

Mready50, Welcome to the FMCA Forum! Here is a link to the service manual for the model you listed: http://www.fourwheelcampers.com/NewDometicRefrigeratorManual.pdf Hope it helps pin down the problem. Rich

Racesport, Along with the voltage measurements and wiring changes posted by Brett, you might want to check the Horizontal and Vertical settings (adjustments) of your headlights. Should they be set incorrectly or aimed to low, the low beams will not light up the road very far ahead of the coach and it does not take much of an angle change to make a big difference. Rich.

Bill, some good information! Always good to have options. After looking up the item for more information on Trombella. They have both intermittent and continuous duty stiles with both Grounded and ungrounded series. The price on there relays is not bad and they use a silver alloy for the contacts, with a good current rating. The Item you listed is in there Bear series. A link for others who might be interested: http://shopping.murcal.com/Catalog/Bear-DC-Contactor-Family/114-1211-020 Rich.

Ike, Welcome to the FMCA Forum! This is one item regarding the cluster back lighting: 9. DIMMING Gauge, pointer and display backlight intensity are controlled by a 5000 +/-5 potentiometer. When the headlights are on, all of these features dim together in accordance with the dimmer position. A selection in the diagnostic menu on the message display will allow resetting to the original factory value (this value is calculated with no load connected in parallel with the backlighting input). If the headlights are off, the LCD backlighting will be on full bright. Rich.

Rob, Welcome to the FMCA Forum! From your description, I would suspect the starter Relay or solenoid that is between the starter solenoid (located on the Starter) and the ignition switch. ALL Connections need to be clean and tight for reliable operation, so a good cleaning of the connections could be in order. REMOVE the battery grounds before working on the large cable connections. The location of this item is generally close to the starter, this limits the length the heavy cable required to supply adequate current to the starter. Often referred to as the castle relay, with a wire from the ignition switch supplying power to the coil and one wire going to ground. 2 large wires run between the battery and one terminal of the relay contacts. The other goes from the relay to the starter solenoid. Should you find yourself in a no start setting and all else is working. One can jump across this relay to start the engine, BUT know what you are doing, using a jumper cable and when the engine cranks ! It is rather unnerving if you have never had to do this as you need to be under the engine in most cases !!! Work safe AND get HELP if you are not sure of this procedure. Rich.

Harvey, There are a number of different Flexible conduit suppliers. Making different styles and sizes used for different applications. Look up flexible conduit on the web, then check the code for use in mobile applications. Rich.

R Johnson. Welcome to the FMCA Forum ! Could you post the chassis make and model for the group. Winnebago did make the coach, but the chassis was made by some other supplier. Other Coach owners with units built on the same frame, could be having the same issues. Rich.

GliderCoach, this is a link to the Service info. for your unit if you need it. Check page 14, it covers the electric heater system and might be of some help. http://manuals.adventurerv.net/Atwood-Water-Heater-Service.pdf Rich.

Dougja1, Welcome to the FMCA Forum! Been following this thread. The members posted some real good information on what to check, replace and why. The only item I would add is to have the valve train adjusted,(lifter clearance checked) once you get the power level up to where it should be. Rich.

Hypoxia, Welcome to the FMCA Forum! Good that you where able to get things replaced, repaired, painted and installed while on home turf. Also, a good testimony for checking and looking things over before hitting the road! Rich.

Jodie, Welcome to the FMCA Forum ! Could you post the Make, Model and Year of your unit for the group ? There are a number of different ways the manufactures wire and layout things. Rich.

After reading Brett's thoughts. We all look at items from different perspectives. The current coach we have is almost 14 years old and is in good mechanical condition in regards to the Chassis. So it is not a concern at the time. Being and older Diesel it does not have any EPA required added system, that do add necessary maintenance and the cost associated with them. Diesel engine has a good 400,000 miles left on her bearing any major issues that could pop up. Granted the warranty period is up, but being a relative simple chassis there is really little to worry about. Now! in regards to parts being No Longer Available. That can be an issue, but most parts are available although most are reman. and not an off the shelf item is some cases. The coach section is basic, some might consider it crud or primitive. However it is sound with just a touch of delamination. When I inquired about it, the repair center just brushed if off. Noted, the 8in. by 3in. wide spot is not worth the cost and asked how long it had been there. I said like 4 years due to a small seam leak that was repaired. All the systems and equipment work fine and I can do most of the work (yet) and have the upper hand regarding how to operate, locate parts and access items. The thought of going through the required learning curve on a new or newer coach is not appealing to me at this time. I prefer to put the money into fuel and expendable parts and run over more white lines. Always weigh the investment in a newer unit to the current cost of keeping the present one the road. When the two cross, one needs to evaluate there options and needs. Rich.

Well, The folks up north like to share, you know. So some cold, Ice and snow sounded like a good idea; so you might have a white Christmas. Rich.