dickandlois

Bob, The trick is to keep the eddy created by a deflector, from concentrating the heat to a point that will not cause damage to the side of the coach and furnace area. One would need all the dimensions of the exhaust port and find a way to connect a deflector. Stainless Steel would make a nice looking addition, but think I would have a (tin knocker) duct work shop make one up an see if just a simple cone shape would work or if one needs a vent made up like the ones used for boats, a Bilge Vent. They might even have a size that would work it if can be attached to the furnace area. Rich.

Rob, This is a link to the service information on your style Atwood. It is very technical, but covers them very well. If nothing else it will help fill in some of the operation gaps that the owners manual does not cover. http://bryantrv.com/...flamefurn04.pdf Regarding space heaters. There are a number of them. My only thought is you should stay away from the open heater stile, just to easy to get something to close that could start a fire. Thinking a closed radiant heater stile might be safer over all. Zero clearance design. Power requirements would need to be limited to a max of 1200 to 1500 watts and this is if you have a dedicated 15 amp. circuit you can use. Hope this helps. Rich.

I like it !!! Its kind of like telling the bear to go s==t in the buckwheat in our neck of the woods !! I do expect that they receive some Federal funds to maintain the roadway. Thank you. It would be interesting to see there response !!

Utility Bill could be interesting issue for anyone living off the grid, if you have solar and wind power options. Kind of living off the land. We have been thinking of just having an nu-in proved lot, with water, septic system and a pad for the coach. It would provide one with an RD address and a minimum tax bill, with a place to have a garden during the Northern summers. Then on the road for the cold weather,with possible trips during the summer when the garden needs less attention. Kind of 3/4 timers !!! Rich.

I have to admit that I have never considered the possibility of the detector sensing hydrogen. The LP detector on my coach failed and needed to be replaced, it was going off frequently with no leaks found in the system. Just maybe that was the reason?? One strange thing that happened to us. The coach sets on its pad at home and the natural gas line(s) run under the ground about 30 ft. from the coach. When we had a small leak in the line, with no wind and cool morning air the Coach LP detector would pick up the leak and sound off an alarm. So they can be very sensitive. Rich.

As Mentioned white smoke is low fuel supply. The things that come to mind are. Fuel filter, Fuel pump or restriction in the fuel line, this could be do to the fuel line being crimped in some manner or some thing in side the line itself. Just got to ask if this has happened when you are at altitude in the last few mouths or has been an issue from the day you picked up the coach? Not allot of hrs. on the unit. Wondering if something like a very small air leak in the fuel line somewhere. Interesting because it works at lower altitudes with no smoke,, one would think the white smoke would be more prevalent at lower altitudes because of greater air pressure. Rich.

Dan, The only item I can think of, is to check the Spark and sense Electrode is positioned properly. Needs to stay in the flame, if the flame blows away from this sensor it cools rapidly shutting down the gas valve. Note: use a pencil eraser to clean the board contacts. Rich.

Clyde, I go along with Bill that it should be checked out by Cummins. Fuel system issue tops my list. Things that come to mind are Throttle control, bad connection or noisy position sensor on the gas pedal. ECM, bad connection(s) bad circuit inside the module. Fuel Injector pump, pressure issue. Fuel lift pump, Pressure or air intrusion in the suction side Fuel lines, loose or missing line clamp, a hole in the line--chaffing issue. Filters, Dirt or other material in the fuel tank when it was installed, filter restriction. Crank shaft sensor? Rich.

Good to know you found the problem! Have a safe trip an eat more then you should, like the rest of us. Will finish up replacing the radiator in the old Oldsmobile today (I hope) so we can take a short 250 mile trip, in the classic to a get together with my younger brother. Rich.

Thanks! Tim and Beth, It is kind of challenging and humbling considering how many times one can be wrong, pushing out of ones comfort zone and the body of knowledge within the group that really makes it work. With all the changes in the coaches each year there is never a shortage of challenges. May you also have a Good Thanksgiving, safe travels and good health. If our reply's are little slow over the next few days. We are likely eating to much, taking a nap or preoccupied with friends and family, but still peaking over your shoulder form time to time to see how all are doing. Rich.

Clyde, Do you have the surging issue only when cruise control is on, or all the time? Rich.

Hi Andy ! Man if I did not know you very well, I would be wondering what you where sipping !! I did find this little note. recall ? not sure. other electrical issues involve wire routing and chafed wires contacting ground in the drive shaft area and slide corners. Wire routing issues. Problem with Electrical System Jan 19, 2007 - Toms River, NJ - Wiring MOTOR HOME HAD MULTIPLE SAFETY RELATED ISSUES THROUGHOUT 2005. -FIRE IN AWNING MOTOR INSIDE MOTORHOME What power functions do you have on the seat? Any movement in the Seat base ? Thinking the awning switch is located close to the or in the front facing wall of the kitchen area slid wall ! Wounder if its a back feed issue, thing is how?? Common buss power at the fuse box or both awning and seat functions in a common harness ?? One of the other sights I frequent has a poster that is retired from Fleetwood. Will see if he might have the electrical drawings for you coach. He is reluctant to responding to certain requests, but its worth a try. Rich. P.S. Have a great Thanksgiving, safe travels. Picked up the son at the airport, the pet is back inside, good night.

Peter ! Monaco uses latching relays in most cases. That means a momentary switch is all that is needed to turn on or off the 12 volt system. The closest drawings I have are for a 03 Windsor, so things could be different. The 12 volts is present at the relays and all the switch does is supply a momentary ground so it can change state. Think you listed the part number and manufacture, (hands full at the time) if so could you re post that info. and I will check out there specifications and applications when the dust settles. Rich.

They use momentary switches to toggle latching relays. So there is no high current drawn by the relay coils, only when they are turned on or off. Toggled. The contacts are generally made of tungsten to handle high current loads. The key to longer relay life (the ATS) is to reduce the load on them when plugging into shore power or starting the generators. This reduces the current surge on the contacts, less arching longer contact life. The heat mentioned is from current load, you will see higher temperatures at them as the contacts degrade. Higher resistance at the contact points equal higher voltage drop at a given current load. This is true for all coaches equipped with transfer switches, 30 amp or 50 amp service. You might notice that your circuit breakers on the generators start to trip more often as the ATS contacts degrade, also might encounter an increase in the shore power panel breakers tripping when you turn them on after plugging in. Rich.

I found this information and just posted it on another thread. It might help. http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/ccc.pdf Rich.

I do not remember the article, but this link might provide some the information and help. http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/ccc.pdf Rich..

The Post by MrBoyer is the likely the point of the problem. and well verified by your diagnosis. This pump problem has been posted on other sights on the web. I looked at the pump current range for on load pressure to 50 psi. The pump draws between 3 and 4.5 amps. This should be well within most DC switches current range as well as the latching relays used on most RV's. Rich.

Herman is correct regarding the fuel pump, also check for 12 volts to the pump. You should be able to hear it running( till pressure is built up) There is a relay in the circuit controlled from the ignition key. If the pump is running check for a plugged inline fuel filter. Check this link, Covers the fuel systems in detail. Rich.

David, Rechargeable batteries do degrade over time. How old is the battery and is the system's Name Biometric ? Rechargeable batteries are available from many electronic and from Lowe's or Wall-mart. If its a special battery, then you will need to find one from OEM source or aftermarket supplier. Rich

Is this the same car that you mentioned in the locking problem post? Rich.

David, You did not mention any information in regards to the make,model and year of the car. Sounds like a locking link / cable has come loose or broken. One needs to remove the inside door trim to repair the problem in most cases. Rich.

Hi Bill, I have been tracking this issue for a number of years. I have not had a problem to date. Just jinked myself LOL I have been wondering if the fogging issue is related to the difference between the outside / inside temperature difference and the natural expansion and contraction of glass and the type of sealer(s) used between the glass layers. Do you or any of the full-timers out there have any thoughts in this regard? Rich.

John, Sounds like a current or thermal issue. I'm going with the current thought, in the supply voltage circuit, not a thermal breaker in the motor housing. You could just disconnect the blower motor plug and supply 12 volts and a ground directly to the motor. If it works fine, a circuit issue. If it turns on and off its a blower motor issue. There is a resistor array built into the blower circuit for the speed(s) one bad connection at the common circuit point could also cause issues. There might be a auto reset breaker in the 12 volt supply that is just weak. A weak one would auto reset faster as the higher current required for the faster motor speed increases. Could be a thermal reset in the motor that is cycling the same way. Not a common setup though. That would require replacing the blower motor. I would look for the fuse, should be in the 12 volt dc supplied from the main power buss, through a fuse to the motor in a circuit controlled by a power relay. The switches built into the dash control do not have high current capability. If you find a reset type fuse, jumper it and see if the problem goes away. Rich.

Marty, By chance did you mean 12 volt auto-reset breaker's? Rich.

PK 42. The ECM is located on the side of the engine opposite the Exhaust and turbo charger. One needs to kind of stand on their head to see it.. The cruise not setting is often the switch on the steering wheel, contact issue or broken wire, as mentioned in post #2. There is a circuit board that interfaces the wiring from the switch cabling and the chassis harness. The one cruise control issue I had was related to a defective voltage regulator. The giveaway to an alternator problem, was it would work when things where cold (first starting) for the days travels. As the engine heated up the cruise worked fine, until I engaged the brakes, releasing the cruise or by turning it off at the wheel. When I tried to reengage it, the cruse would work but would have a surging affect or be very difficult to engage at all on real hot days. The circuit uses engine RPM's (tachometer signal) and speedometer information to maintain a set speed. The noise from the bad alternator was interfering with the signals used by the cruise electronics. Rich.